Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — combined. 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Guamysh ridge. 3. Peak Guamysh (p. 5367), Northwest ridge. 4. Presumed difficulty category — 4B, approximately, second ascent. 5. Route characteristics:

• height difference — 1167 m.
• length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 120 m.
• average steepness — 38°

6. Number of pitons (protection elements) used

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude technical.
2. Ascent area — northern spurs of the Pamiro-Alai ridge, upper reaches of the Guamshi River.
3. Peak — 5367 m («Rita»), W spur.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 5367–3900 = 1467 m length of sections with V difficulty category — average steepness.
6. Pitons hammered for belay: rock — 122

Passport

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alay, Guamysh gorge
3. Peak "5200"
4. Cat. difficulty 6
5. Elevation gain 100 m Length of sections with cat. difficulty 5-6 — 930 m. Average steepness 75°.
6. Pitons driven: rock — 108-XIII, ice — 55-X, bolt — 5-U, закладных — 36-II
7. Walking hours — 42
8. Overnights: 1 — in hammocks; 2 — two in hammocks; 3 — four on a platform cut out in a snowy ridge; 4 — platform for 6 people on a snow drift; 5 — platform cut out in a snow-ice slope for 6 people (semi-reclining).

1. Ascent passport. I. Category — technical.
2. Pamir-Alay, Gumush gorge.
3. Karaganda South (4850) via the North face of the East ridge.
4. Category 5B, combined
5. Height difference 850 m.
6. Length of sections: ice — 300, rock — 390, snow — 450. Category 5–6 sections — 630 m, average steepness — 75°.
7. Number of pitons: rock 56/5, ice 68, bolt 4/4, nut 38/2.

Description of the route.

From the base camp, along the left, orographic, side of the Gumysh river, approach the glacier 22. Along the moraine of the glacier, approach the couloir in the right part of the northwest wall. The couloir descends from the ridge between the peak 4280 and an unnamed summit. The couloir is very narrow and prone to rockfall. The route begins with a chimney with a large plug. Climbing is moderate. The length of the chimney is 10 m. After the chimney:

• to the left along the talus shelves, approach the gray wall with a vertical slit. The rocks are monolithic. Passage of the wall:
• through the slit
• or from the left Good holds. Climbing is moderate. Then:

Участок R0–R1: Up the snowy slope and further via snowy-icy couloir to a characteristic cave. Участок R1–R2: Exit to the right wall of the couloir and further along the grey slab with a limited number of jugs. At the end of the slab there's a control cairn. Участок R2–R5: Up leftwards along the left edge of the couloir to the base of the rusty wall. Участок R3–R4: Up leftwards along the smooth grey slab. Участок R4–R5: The slab ends with a 10-meter wall with an overhang. Участок R5–R6: Move up rightwards along the black slabs to the base of the rusty overhanging wall with black streaks. Участок 6–7: The wall is climbed on the right. Challenging climbing. Then up along the scree ledge. Участок 7–8: Along the ruined ledge move rightwards towards 3 sharp "gendarmes". Here is the second control point. Участок 8–9: Up leftwards along the grey rocks to approach the base of a "gendarm" of triangular shape. Bypass the "gendarm" on the left along the scree ledge, which breaks off with steep grey rocks. Traverse up rightwards to exit into a snowy-icy couloir. Участок 9–10: Up the couloir to exit onto a scree ledge below the grey triangular wall on the ridge of the counterfort.

I. Climbing category — combined 2. Climbing region — Pamir-Alay, Guamysh ridge 3. Peak — p. Tashkentsev (4420) via the northern ridge. 4. Presumed difficulty category — 2B oriented (first ascent) 5. Route characteristics:

• elevation gain — 500 m
• length of 5th category difficulty sections — none
• average steepness — 35°

6. Pitons hammered (utilized protection elements)

• for belay — 5

Route description.

From the base camp - exit along the left orographic bank of the Guaaya River to the cirque of Glacier No.3. Ascend the moraine of the glacier to the first couloir on the left leading to the peak 4420 (n. Tashkontsev). At the beginning of the couloir, there is a pronounced cone of fine gray scree, to the right of which a small area of coarse and medium scree adjoins. Ascend the scree and couloir (200 m) to the scree shelves on the left rib. The couloir is rockfall-prone. Along the scree shelves, bypassing the rock walls of the rib, ascend to the internal angle with a small rock wall. In front of the wall, there is a snow-ice slope of about 30°. Ascend the wall and then along the scree slope under the rock wall of the final rib.

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area — Central Tien Shan, ridge, Karakol gorge.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route: Peak Karbyshev, 4700 m, via the eastern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 780 m, average steepness — 40°.
6. Number of pitons for belay: rock pitons — 6 pieces, ice screws were not used for creating intermediate belays.
7. Number of climbing hours:

• from the upper base camp under the glacier to the upper campsite — 2 hours.
• from the upper campsite to the couloir — 30 minutes.
• ascent through the couloir — 40 minutes.