49. Nakra via North-West Ridge (Route 2B cat. dif.). The path from the "Baksan" alp camp (group 4, 20 people) to the Donguzorun false pass col is described in routes 44 and 48. From the col, go left and 300–400 m up the heavily destroyed simple rocky North-West Ridge to a site below the first rocky ascent of Nakra peak. This part of the ridge can be bypassed on the right by descending from the col 15–20 m to the south, and traversing along the ridge to reach the first snowy ascent. Here, turn left and rise up the snowy slope to the sites on the ridge. The initial bivouac is on the sites. From the "Baksan" alp camp, 9–10 hours. From the sites (without backpacks), ascent along the heavily

& 150–200 × 45°–50°
& 200–250 mm
& 200–220 × 111–1 B
& 100 × 30°
& 250–300 m H–1 B
& 100–120 × 25°–35°
& 10 m H & 200 m H–1 B

First ascent of the unnamed peak (Rear Nakra) The ascent was made on July 6, 1975 by a group of instructors from the Shkhelda alpine camp:

1. ZHUKOV S.Ya. — 1st sports category (leader)
2. MAERKOVICH I.V. — 2nd sports category
3. SOLOVYOVA G.M. — Master of Sports of Russia
4. MUKHINA I.V. — 1st sports category
5. GUR'YAN Yu.A. — 1st sports category
6. ZAMYATNIN L.M. — 1st sports category The peak is located in a low spur extending from Nakra peak towards Ledesh peak and dividing the basins of the Hevai glacier and the Southern plateau of Donguz-Orun. From the base camp, located at the confluence of the Hevai and Kvish glaciers, ascend via the high right-bank moraine of the Hevai glacier to the glacier cirque (1 hr) and across the glacier plateau towards the clearly visible peak closing the cirque and composed of yellow-colored rocks.

4. ROUTE DESCRIPTION Ascent to the Main peak of Sakashil-Bashi (4100 m) via the northern edge Day 1 - approach through the Sakashil-do gorge to the bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Central Glacier (at an elevation of 3430 m) - see the general description of ascents to the Sakashil-Bashi massif. From Tyrnyauz - 9:00-10:00. Day 2 - departure should be early - at 3-4 am; from the bivouac, follow the glacier to the foot of the rock buttress, approach the bergschrund (at the beginning of summer, the glacier is snow-covered, by the end of summer - open, crevices are easily bypassed). The elevation of the bergschrund edge under the buttress is 3530 m. Cramp-ons are put on here. Crossing the bergschrund is not complicated - at the beginning of summer it is closed, at the end (September 1969) it is possible to cross on snow bridges. One rope is passed directly up the ice couloir (at the beginning of summer - firn) between the two rock ridges of the buttress. Steepness is about 45°. Then, crossing the couloir to the right and upwards, we approach the rocks of the right (along the route) ridge and move along the edge of the ice and rocks; at the end of the second rope, a rock piton is hammered in for belay. After crossing a small ice tongue, we emerge onto the rocks. Cramp-ons are removed and we ascend the rocks upwards along the couloir for one rope. Rocks are of medium difficulty, heavily destroyed (unstable rocks). Further:

• to the right - along a vaguely expressed internal corner, one rope, one intermediate piton is hammered in;
• then slightly to the right and up along a steep internal corner with a small number of holds, exit to the ridge of the buttress.

Peak 3200.0 (Terskolak Zapadny) Route: via the southern edge Category of complexity — 4B cat. dif. (rocky) Leader: V. Babkin Central Caucasus, Prielbrusye, Terskol gorge Section in KMGV — 2.4. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to peak 3200.0 (Terskolak Zapadny) "via the southern edge 4B cat. dif. (rocky)". At the mountaineering event of the Higher Mountain School "School of Mountain Training of the Ministry of Defense of the Russian Federation" in 2012. Region: Kabardino-Balkarian Republic. Dominant country: Central Caucasus Gorge: Terskol. Ridge: dominant massif: southeastern spur of Elbrus "Terskolak - TersakItkolbashi". Peak: 3200.0 m (Terskolak Zapadny). Route: via the southern edge. Level of complexity: 4B cat. dif. (rocky).

Ascent Passport Terskolak (NW) 2B, via S slope and W ridge

Table of Contents

• APPROACH
• ASCENT — start
• ASCENT — glacier
• ASCENT — gendarme
• ASCENT — wall
• DESCENT
• ROUTE SECTIONS TABLE
• APPENDIX 1

From the Baksan valley, through the Donguz-Orun pass, we enter the Nakra valley. Along the trail, which follows the left (orographically) bank of the Nakra River, we reach the confluence of the Kvish and Nakra rivers. We cross a small bridge over the Kvish River and begin ascending along the left (orographically) bank of the Kvish River to the left lateral moraine. There are areas for overnight stays in the upper part of the moraine. The journey from Terskol to these areas takes around 10 hours. From the moraine, staying on the right side (as we move forward), under the slopes of v. Leyrag, we pass onto the plateau under the Kvish pass. The ascent to the Kvish pass can be challenging, depending on the season. In August, there is steep, razored ice. The ascent to the Kvish pass is to the left of the icefall, sticking to the rocks. A rock ascent is possible. The rocks are of medium

PASSPORT

I. Technical category 2. Central Caucasus, Elbrus region 3. Chatyn Glavny peak via the bastion of the Eastern wall 4. Assumed 5B category of complexity, first ascent. 5. Elevation gain 1950 m, length — 3250 m. Length of sections with 5B-6 category of complexity — 640 m. Average steepness of the main sections: bastion 70° (3592–4060), buttress 59° (3216–3592), including 6 category sections: 252 m (3320–3380), (3742–3780), (3815–3855), (3987–4045). 6. Pitons driven: rock 73/0; bolt pitons — 2/2; chocks 163/0; ice screws 34/0. 7. Team's travel time 33 hours and days — 2.5.

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.