3320 m a.s.l. syndrome (EC) (1/2­A)

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE NORTH FACE OF THE EASTERN SUMMIT OF Karagem-bash (July 18-20, 1962) 5B cat. diff. The Karagem-bash peak (3972 m) is located in the central ridge of the North-Chuya mountain range of the Altai Mountains. The massif of this peak, stretching in the latitudinal direction, limits one of the largest glaciers of the Altai - the Maashai Glacier (length 10 km, area 15 km²) from the south. To the west of Karagem-bash in the same ridge stands the massif of the Maashai peak (4250 m), which is the highest point of all the North-Chuya Alps. To the east, the ridge from the Karagem-bash peak goes to the Tammas peak, from where it turns north to the Maashai pass. Numerous extensive glaciers descend from the peak to the south, giving rise to the Karagem River. To the north (to the Maashai Glacier), the Karagem-bash peak breaks off with a one-and-a-half-kilometer wall. Icefalls hang from the icy cap of the peak to the north, separated by steep rocky buttresses. The collapses of these icefalls occur along the lower sections of these buttresses, where they are less steep. The wall has a northern exposure and is illuminated by the sun for only a few hours a day (during the ascent - from 1:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m.). The wall leading to the western peak was climbed in 1956 by a group led by V.S. Andreev. The route was classified as 5B cat. diff. The object of this ascent was the wall leading to the eastern peak of Karagem-bash and separated in the upper part from the route of V.S. Andreev's group by a cap of icefalls hanging from the peak. The entire Karagem-bash wall is clearly visible from the Maashai valley, which this peak closes.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock
2. Region: Alps, Chamonix (France)
3. Route: via North-West wall (Piola–Steiner route)
4. Difficulty category: not classified, proposed 6A
5. Height difference: 840 m, length: 1240 m length of sections with 5 difficulty category — 565 m, length of sections with 6 difficulty category — 380 m average steepness of main sections — 78°
6. Pitons used: | Rock | Nuts | Ice |

Passport

1. Technical class
2. South America, Patagonia
3. Cerro Torre summit via the southeast ridge by the "Compressor" route.
4. Approximate complexity category 6B
5. Route wall section length — 1453 m.
6. Section length from the glacier to the Col of Patience saddle — 630 m. Route length from the glacier to the summit — 2233 m.
7. Length of sections with 6th complexity category — 568 m.
8. Length of sections with drilled holes (not included in point 7) — 465 m.

The route "Storm Warning" 6A cat. sl. on the Alupka Wall 1239 m. Approach to the route: from the parking lot along the wall in the direction of the central couloir. Rockfall hazard! The approach through the couloir is characterized by sections of climbing up to category V and rockfall hazard.

Ascent Passport.

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing.
2. Region of ascent — Crimea Region. Alupka Wall — 1239 m.
3. Category of difficulty — 6A cat. sl.
4. Route characteristics: Height difference of the route — 239 m. Length of the route — 270 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 85°. Total length of sections with category V difficulty — 80 m. Total length of sections with category VI difficulty — 160 m.

Crimea, Angarskaya wall. "Appenditsit" Route 4B

00

Angarskaya wall. "Appenditsit" Route 4B (Samulev E. - start, Lishaev Yu. - finish).

A complex and tense line without drilled holes and auxiliary points on the crux. In some places, there are many loose rocks, and in some places, it's hard to organize belays. It can be rightfully considered the most challenging route on the entire wall. Equipment:

• hammers and pitons
• a set of quickdraws
• medium and large nuts
• medium and large cams.

Paraghelmen — 3

List of Routes to the Summit of Paraghelmen:

1. Paraghelmen via the right edge of the western part of the massif and the counterfort 1B, II
2. Paraghelmen via the left counterfort of the central wall (SW edge) 2A, III, A1
3. Paraghelmen via the center of the wall and SW edge 3B, V, A1
4. Paraghelmen via the right edge of the wall 4B
5. Paraghelmen via the right counterfort of the central wall (SE edge) 2B variant: Paraghelmen via SE edge and the center of the wall 3B, V

Route 3

4Б cat. dif., "Kurinnaya Lapochka" (Chicken Leg)

The exit to the cirque above the first belt of rocks is described in route Ch10. Walk along the terrace to the left, under a narrow, clearly visible crack in the slab, stretching from right to left. The crack is located 40–50 m to the left of a large cornice. R1 is set near a tree under the crack. Climb up the crack to the left and exit onto a small ledge (20 m, 80°, V, small and medium-sized gear). Then:

• Under the cornice, climb up an inner corner with a convenient crack for 15 m to a ledge.
• Traverse left along the ledge to a tree (VI) — R2. From the tree:
• Climb 4–5 m up and to the right along the wall.
• Swing right into an inner corner behind a ridge. Climb complex rocks in the inner corner for 15 m upwards (85°, VA1, small and medium-sized gear), then pass a small overhang and exit into another inner corner.

The first ascent to the summit of "Austrian Komsomol" (3600 m) via the Chkhalta-Dzykh pass from the south along the eastern ridge, approximately 4A category of difficulty. Dombay, July 1969, "Krasnaya Zvezda" alpine camp

Photo # 1

Panorama of peaks from the Belalai glacier. From right to left: Kap peak; "German Komsomol" peak; "Austrian Komsomol" peak. (September)

Photo # 2

View from the Belalai glacier to the Chkhalta-Dzykh pass (September).

Diagram # 1

of the area of "Austrian Komsomol" peak "M" is the saddle between the "Austrian Komsomol" peak and its southeastern summit - Festivalny peak.

Ascent Log

I. Ascent category: rock climbing 2. Ascent area: CAUCASUS, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass. 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: AKSAUT NORTH-EAST (3760 m) via the South-East wall. 4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 950 m, average steepness 65°, total length of sections: 1300 m.