Alpine Federation of Russia

REPORT

on the ascent to Mt. Five Fingers (Funffingerspitzen, 2996 m) in the Dolomites (Italy) — traverse of the massif from East to West, category 3B, approximately on August 16, 2010. Leader: Smirnov V.V. Participants: Penyaev I.N. Mikhaylova I.V. Team Coach: Smirnov V.V. St. Petersburg 2010

Passport

1. Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 8.3.57 Polar Urals, Raiiz mountain massif, Nyrdvomen-Shor stream valley.
2. Name of the peak: 1159.0 (Dinozavr Glavny) height: 1159.0 m. Route: along the central counterfort of the western rock massif of the northern wall of the western ridge.
3. Category of difficulty: 2B
4. Character of the route — rock climbing.
5. Height difference of the route: 890 m
6. Length of the route: 3000 m
7. Length of sections with the highest category of difficulty:

Ascent Passport

Region — Subpolar Urals. Ridge — Narod-Ityinsky Ridge (kряж). Gorge — Bolshaya Lemva River Valley. Mountain Massif — Parnokaiz. Section number according to KMGV-2001 — #8. "Other mountain systems, massifs". Peak name — 1020 (Parnokaiz Western). Height — 1020 m. Route name — via the western ridge. First ascent. Proposed difficulty category — 1B cat. sl. (rocky). Note: The Alpinism Federation of the Komi Republic requests the classification commission of the Alpinism Federation of Russia to credit the group of pioneers for the ascent of 2A cat. sl. Elevation gain — 810 m, route length — 2 km, average steepness of the main (technical part) of the route — 45°, average steepness of the entire route — 35°. Sections of 3, 4, 5, and 6 cat. sl. — none, no pitons left on the route. Time taken by the team for the ascent:

• Approach to the base camp (mothballed geologists' base "Lemva") from the miners' settlement Pachvoz — 2 days.
• Ascent from the base camp (mothballed geologists' base "Lemva") — 8 hours. The ascent was made by a sports group consisting of:
• Leader — com. otr. NP-2: S. V. Zhuravlev (CMS, instr. 2 cat., cert. #1124, Syktyvkar).

Ascent Log

I. Ascent class — ice and snow. 2. Ascent area — Khibiny Mountains. 3. Peak, its height, and route — Takhtarvumchorr ridge, via "Zigzag" couloir on the wall of Takhtarvumchorr ridge, 1154 m. 4. Estimated difficulty category — 2A category difficulty. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m. Length of sections, category difficulty:

• I — 500 m
• II — 500 m
• III — 100 m Average slope: overall 50°

Al-Pe­tri Wall

пе­ря — 5Б

"Crocodile" Turk­evich route, cat. 6A, 1976

Not reaching the "forest ranger's house" by 10 m, follow an obscure path to come under the wall. The start of the route is next to a large pine tree growing under the wall. R0–R1: ascend the broken rocks upwards, slightly left, to reach a small tree. The belay station is on the tree. 5a/5b, 30 m R1–R2: from the station, go right-upwards, 7 m, to under a ledge; under the ledge, traverse right to a bollard, 5-7 m. Further - upwards, through an overhang, 5 m, to an artificial aid, then - via a small internal corner - exit onto an inclined slab. Belay station. There is a bollard. 40 m, 6aA2 (the rope is hazardous - beware!) R2–R3: From the station, ascend leftwards, via an overhanging internal corner, then by free climbing, bypassing the overhanging ruin on the left, to reach the base of the "Crocodile" bulge. Ascend the cleft formed by the bulge and the wall to the top of the bulge. The belay station is on personal anchors. 50 m, 6A R3–R4: From the station, descend 3 m to the other side of the bulge. Further, ascend the wide cleft with destroyed edges upwards, to under a heavily destroyed overhang. From here, perform a complex traverse left, 5-7 m, then ascend the cleft to a small juniper.

• Descend 3 m to the other side of the bulge
• Ascend the wide cleft with destroyed edges upwards
• Pass under the heavily destroyed overhang
• Perform a complex traverse left (5-7 m)

Ascent Passport

1. Class: Rock
2. Region: Crimea, Batiliman
3. Peak: Kush-Kaya
4. Route: via South-West ridge (classic)
5. Difficulty category: 2B
6. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 380 m, length — 460 m. Average slope — 56°
7. Pitons used: rock — 12 pcs.
8. Movement time — 2 hours, descent via trail — 0.5 hours.
9. Ascent leader: Lebedev Nikolay Petrovich, 3rd class, participants: Vorobyev Mikhail Yuryevich, badge holder, Feklistov Mikhail Mikhailovich, badge holder.

Kush — Kaia-13. Right of Va‑rezh‑ka

R0–R1. (35–40 m) The start of the route is 10 m to the left of the "Le‑vaia shtani‑na" route.

• From the shelf, move left and up 10 m — easy climbing
• Exit onto a small ledge under an overhanging chimney with grass
• Up the chimney for 7 m on aid climbing
• Further up through an inclined inner corner to a large tree — easy climbing
• Exit onto a large ledge, where the "Va‑rezh‑ka" route from the left and "Le‑vaia shtani‑na" route from the right converge R1–R2. (25–30 m)
• From the large tree, traverse right along the ledge for 10 m

Technical description of the route

Mt. Kush-Kaya (627 m) - 23. "Batilimania", 6B cat. climbing route This is how it was done. https://www.risk.ru/blog/208148 The start of the route coincides with the route "Laskovyi Mart". I repeat the description of "Mart" up to the R7 station. From the "Kush-Kaya" camping parking lot, we go to the right and upwards in the direction of the "Shkuroder" climbing sector. Bypassing this sector from the right, we ascend the slopes of the summit via the traditional path, which coincides with the approaches to the routes:

• "Shtany"
• "Senokos"
• "Ugolok"

Author: Anatoly Geniush, Sevastopol. Description of the first ascent of the route "Doroga uehala" 5B cat. on Merdven-Kaya, S-E wall, to the right of Hergiani rock. The group consisting of A. Geniush, V. Kudryavtsev, A. Lyashko, on March 29, 2008. The start of the route is under the sparse trees to the left of the large inner corner - a chimney in the middle part of the South-East wall. The first rope is an easy climb of 3 cat. upwards and to the right to the last right tree (40 m). Further (second rope) - difficult climbing along an oblique, heavily destroyed crack:

• up and to the right 20 m;
• move to the right 3 m;
• straight up through the cleft 3 m - entrance to the inner corner, turning into a chimney of medium width. At the bottom of the chimney - an uncomfortable station on закладках and stone corks. Further climbing through a narrow, overhanging chimney, turning into an overhanging inner corner with a cleft. Large friends are needed for protection. At the end of the corner, where the cleft strongly overhangs: