Ascent to Ullu-Auz-Bashi peak via Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi pass.

Ullu-Auz-Bashi peak (4679 m) is located in a branch of the lateral ridge, separating the basins of Dumala and Mizhyrgi rivers. The ascent to Ullu-Auz-Bashi via Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi pass is classified as category III.

Route description.

Day 1.

Day 1. From "Bezengi" tourist center, the path goes along the left-bank moraine of Mizhyrgi glacier until the trail disappears and the moraine descends to the glacier level (approximately one and a half hours of walking). Then, you need to reach the glacier and ascend along its middle part to the first step of Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi icefall. The first step is traversed on its right side along the most gentle ice slope. It is not recommended to approach the slopes of Mizhyrgi due to possible snow avalanches, and after passing the first step, you need to quickly move up to the left to the left edge of the second step of the icefall. The lower part of the second step of the icefall is bypassed (on the left) along the talus (50–60 m), then the path goes to the right and leads to the ice above the steep ice slope. Here, crampons are usually put on. The path continues:

• straight up the icefall, approximately 20–50 m from its left edge;
• numerous crevices are filled with serac fragments and can be passed without difficulty.

fig. 3 5. Galdor Main via South Ridge (combined route by A. Alexandrova, 4A category of complexity, fig. 3). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4-8 people) to the moraine leading to the Galdor glacier is described in route 1. From the moraine, traverse right and upwards along the talus slopes to approach a wide couloir descending southwest from the South Ridge of Galdor Main. From here, ascend a wide, gradually narrowing, steep snow-ice 600-700-meter couloir (rockfall possible) that becomes talus in the upper part, to beneath the rock walls of the South Ridge. The ascent includes:

• 20-30 m of steep 'sheep's foreheads' (loose rocks - piton protection);
• then simple slabs with snow sections to a 'South' ridge platform. The platform serves as the initial bivouac. From the "Nakhashbita" meadow, it takes 5-6 hours. From the platform, turn left and follow the simple 'South' ridge to approach a rock step. Ascend 120-140 m of rocks of above average difficulty (loose rocks, piton protection) up the left side of the ridge to the step.

3. Maly Galdor via the Western Ridge (combined route, category II difficulty). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–12 people) to the platforms near the black rock is described in route 1. From the platforms, ascend via a potentially snow-covered scree-filled couloir towards the saddle between Sredniy and Maly Galdor. In the middle part of the couloir, exit it and proceed 200–250 m upwards along the scree shelves and rocky outcrops on its right side. Then, ascend a steep 80–100-meter ice-and-snow slope of the couloir (risk of rockfall — use protection) to reach the right side of the ridge saddle between Maly Galdor on the right and Sredniy on the left. At the saddle, turn right and exit onto the rocks of Maly Galdor's Western Ridge. Continue along the straightforward, occasionally steep ridge rocks, overcoming small rock formations head-on (the large rock formation can be bypassed on the right with protection), to ascend Maly Galdor. The ascent from the platforms near the black rock takes 3–4 hours. The descent follows the ascent route. Source:

• Naumov A. F. Karagom, Digoriya, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

Fig. 6 21. Nakhashbīta Glavnaya via North-Eastern Ridge (the route is combined, by L. Khodyush, category III, Fig. 6). The path from the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River, near the tongue of the Nakhashbīta Glacier (group of 4–8 people), to the Khazni Pass is described in route 20. At the pass, turn right and approach the rocky belt under the Nakhashbīta Pass in the Sugansky Ridge via a steep snowy slope. Climb up the rocks of medium difficulty on the left side of the belt ("live" stones, piton belay). Traverse the snowy slope above the rocky belt to reach the ice-snow ridge. Follow a steep (key belay), and after a small snow depression, a wide gentle 250–300-meter ridge-slope to reach the Nakhashbīta Pass. Set up a bivouac at the pass. The path from the "Nakhashbīta" meadow to the Nakhashbīta Pass is described in route 10. A safer path to climb the North-Eastern ridge of Nakhashbīta is from the Tsukhgar­ty Glacier via a steep ice-snow slope, left of the first rocky outcrop - a rib, with an exit to the North-Eastern ridge of Glavnaya Nakhashbīta above the Nakhashbīta Pass. When climbing from the Nakhashbīta Glacier:

• Turn right at the pass
• Climb up a simple, gentle, long, snow-covered, heavily destroyed rocky ridge
• Continue along the simple snowy North-Eastern ridge of Glavnaya Nakhashbīta

Fig. 12 41. Sugantau via the South Slope (snow and ice route, category 2B difficulty level, Fig. 12). From the tourist base hut located on a wide grassy clearing in the Karasu valley, on the right bank of the Dykhsu River, at the entrance to the canyon of the same gorge (group size: 4-20 people), descend to the Karasu River along a trail and cross it via a bridge. Then, ascend along the Karasu River's bank in the direction of the Shtulu Pass. The trail crosses the river several times via small bridges. Near the lake on the right bank of the Karasu River:

• Turn left, away from the trail leading to the Shtulu Pass;
• Ascend up the steep slope on the left bank of the Aksu River until reaching the confluence with the stream flowing from the Yuzhny Sugan Glacier. After this:
• Cross the Aksu River;
• Ascend along the Yuzhny Sugan stream;

Fig. 29 127. Bubis (4428 m) via West Ridge (mixed route by A. Gvalia, category III difficulty, Fig. 29). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the West Ridge of the Bivouac Peak or on the plateau below the West Ridge of Bubis is described in route 83. From the initial bivouac (closed crevasses), approach the left side of the base of the West Ridge of Bubis via the snowy plateau. From the plateau:

• Cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge (protection);
• Ascend the snowy slope to the West Ridge of Bubis. Turn left here. Initially, follow the snowy ridge upwards, then proceed along a simple, not steep, snow-covered rocky 300-350-meter West Ridge. Further, 100-120 m along the increasingly steeper ice-and-snow West Ridge, transitioning into a steep icy slope (piton protection), and exit onto the rocks. From here, follow simple, ruined, and steep slabs, veering right, to the exit onto a rocky ledge on the right side of the rocky ascent (protection). Traverse along the ledge on the right side of the West Ridge ascent to a vertical internal corner at its end.

Burevestnik-Tseyskiy

The rocky tower of the summit is located between Malaya Songuti to the west and Spartak-Tseyskiy to the east. The summit is technically simple, with only one route laid by V. Tsiruk and V. Markarov in 1953. 159. Burevestnik-Tseyskiy via the North Ridge (combined route, category 2B, Fig. 33). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4–12 people) to the initial bivouac at the sites near Turye Lake under the Maly Songuti glacier is described in route 156. From the bivouac, ascend via the scree, then via the Maly Songuti glacier in the direction of the col between the summits of Malaya Songuti to the right and Burevestnik-Tseyskiy to the

122. Dubl pik South — North (combined route by I. Antonovich, category III difficulty, fig. 20, 25). The path from the tourist service center (TSC) of the Tsey region (group of 4–8 people) to the South Dubl pik is described in route 117. From the South Dubl pik, descend along the ice-and-snow ridge, then along the slope to a wide saddle (with a corniche on the right). Along the saddle, approach the base of the North peak's ascent. Then:

• Ascend a steep 70–80-meter ice-and-snow slope in a couloir;
• Overcome 25–30-meter moderately difficult rocks (piton protection) to reach the West ridge of the North peak;
• On the ridge, turn right and traverse simple and moderately difficult snow-covered rocks to reach the North Dubl pik. Approximately 1 hour from the South Dubl pik. Descend via the ascent route or through the Karaugom plateau (see routes 121, 63). The route duration is 3 days.

123. Dubl pik North — South (combined route by M. Zvezdkin, category III difficulty, fig. 20, 25). The path from the TSC of the Tsey region or the village of Dzinaga (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the West ridge of the Bivouachnaya peak is described in route 83. From the platforms, traverse the snow plateau of the Central branch of the Karaugom plateau (closed crevices) to approach the steep ice-and-snow slope descending from the saddle of the Tsey ridge (between the North Dubl pik on the right and the Krasnoflotets peak on the left).

1

Descend to the hanging glacier and approach it. Bypass the ascent on the right along the steep icy slope and on the right, and the ascent's rocks on the left. Above the drop-offs reach the hanging glacier. along the steep snow-firn slope of the glacier with crevasses ascent to the upper plateau. Along it, approach to the right tower. Bypass the tower on the right and ascend 3B turn left and along simple snow-covered rocks

81. Nuam-Kuam via Eastern ridge (combined route, A. Gvalia, cat. 3B diff., see fig. 5, 19). From the initial bivouac on Ailaminskaya saddle (point 77) 5060 m ascend via large talus, then 20–30 m via steep snowy ascent (belay) on the Eastern ridge of Nuam-Kuam peak, between two rock ridges. Traverse 50–60 m up and left via ice-snow slope to approach the narrow snow-covered couloir of the Southern buttress of the I gendarme on the Eastern ridge of Nuam-Kuam peak. Ascend 80–100 m via moderately difficult, then easy rocks (“live” stones, pitons) on the right side of the narrow couloir onto the buttress.