fig. 3
- Galdor Main via South Ridge (combined route by A. Alexandrova, 4A category of complexity, fig. 3).
The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4-8 people) to the moraine leading to the Galdor glacier is described in route 1.
From the moraine, traverse right and upwards along the talus slopes to approach a wide couloir descending southwest from the South Ridge of Galdor Main. From here, ascend a wide, gradually narrowing, steep snow-ice 600-700-meter couloir (rockfall possible) that becomes talus in the upper part, to beneath the rock walls of the South Ridge.
The ascent includes:
- 20-30 m of steep 'sheep's foreheads' (loose rocks - piton protection);
- then simple slabs with snow sections to a 'South' ridge platform.
The platform serves as the initial bivouac. From the "Nakhashbita" meadow, it takes 5-6 hours.
From the platform, turn left and follow the simple 'South' ridge to approach a rock step. Ascend 120-140 m of rocks of above average difficulty (loose rocks, piton protection) up the left side of the ridge to the step.
From here, ascend simple and average difficulty steep rocks of the South sharp ridge, then follow a 10-12 m continuous ledge to a 12-15 m smooth, above average difficulty, internal corner - a chimney, and ascend it to reach the West Ridge.
The ascent path along the West Ridge to the summit of Galdor Main is described in route 6. From the initial bivouac, it takes 5-7 hours.
Descend via the ascent route.
Naumov A. F. Karagom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.