Ascent to Ullu-Auz-Bashi peak via Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi pass.

Ullu-Auz-Bashi peak (4679 m) is located in a branch of the lateral ridge, separating the basins of Dumala and Mizhyrgi rivers. The ascent to Ullu-Auz-Bashi via Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi pass is classified as category III.

Route description.

Day 1.

Day 1. From "Bezengi" tourist center, the path goes along the left-bank moraine of Mizhyrgi glacier until the trail disappears and the moraine descends to the glacier level (approximately one and a half hours of walking). Then, you need to reach the glacier and ascend along its middle part to the first step of Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi icefall.

The first step is traversed on its right side along the most gentle ice slope. It is not recommended to approach the slopes of Mizhyrgi due to possible snow avalanches, and after passing the first step, you need to quickly move up to the left to the left edge of the second step of the icefall.

The lower part of the second step of the icefall is bypassed (on the left) along the talus (50–60 m), then the path goes to the right and leads to the ice above the steep ice slope. Here, crampons are usually put on.

The path continues:

• straight up the icefall, approximately 20–50 m from its left edge;
• numerous crevices are filled with serac fragments and can be passed without difficulty.

The most difficult section of the second step is located in its upper part, where it may be necessary to:

• cut steps;
• drive ice hooks (1–3).

It is possible to bypass difficult sections slightly to the right, but it is not recommended to go beyond the middle of the icefall due to possible avalanches from the slopes of Tikhonov peak.

Above the second step of the icefall, you need to reach a gentle talus (on the left) from the glacier and ascend to its ridge above the third step of the icefall. Along the ridge of the talus, a trail leads up to the left to a campsite, located near rocks closing the ridge. Above the rocks, there is water under the snow on the glacier.

The journey from the camp to the campsite takes 8–10 hours.

Day 2.

It is recommended to start early, as the day involves ascending to Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi pass, reaching the summit, and returning to the campsite, and if conditions are favorable, descending to the camp.

Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi pass is not visible from the campsite. From the talus ridge, you need to descend 15 m into the cirque of the icefall, bounded on the left by the slopes of Ullu-Auz. The cirque is crossed in the direction of the glacier flowing from under Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi pass. On the right, this glacier is bounded by a ridge descending from a peak (4500 m) in the Ullu-Auz ridge, and on the left, by one of the spurs of Ullu-Auz.

Characteristics of the glacier:

• Steepness in the middle part — up to 30°
• The glacier is snow-covered
• Few crevices

Gradually turning left, you reach the cirque of the glacier. Ahead is the saddle of Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi pass. This is the left of two noticeable depressions in the ridge. The ridge of Ullu-Auz, going left from the saddle, is not the ascent path. The ascent path becomes visible only after reaching the saddle.

From the saddle to the pass:

• A small glacier, 100–150 m long, leads to the pass
• Steepness — 30–45°
• Usually snow-covered
• From the campsite to the pass — 2–2.5 hours of walking

Beyond the pass is a wide, snow-covered, horizontal shelf. If necessary, several tents can be set up here.

The path from the pass to the summit:

• Traverse left for about 50 m without gaining height
• Then start ascending to reach the ridge of Ullu-Auz
• Initially, the ascent is along a snow-covered slope, partially on easy rocks
• Further, along a rocky couloir, partially snow-covered, with small sections of ice
• Before reaching the ridge, a 15 m high rocky pinnacle is encountered, taken head-on
• Rocks are strong, with many holds
• After reaching the ridge, movement is along the ridge or slightly to the right, on snow or rocky shelves
• Under the snow, there may be ice, so it is recommended to have a pair of crampons per group
• Before the summit, there is a depression in the ridge
• The connecting ridge is a sharp, snow-covered crest
• Pre-summit rocks are not difficult
• Ascent from the connecting ridge to the summit — about half an hour

Total time from the pass to the summit — 2.5–3 hours. Descent takes the same amount of time and follows the ascent path. From the pass to the campsite — approximately 1 hour of walking.

It is not recommended to descend to the camp without special need, as passing Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi icefall in the second half of the day is more difficult and hazardous.

Day 3.

Return to the camp.

Ullu-Auz-Bashi via the counterfort of the northern wall, category 5A.

Day 1. The route starts from a bivouac on the moraine of Ullu-Auz glacier under the slopes of Ural peak. Along a snow-ice slope, we reach the lower part of the northern wall, 50 m to the left of the counterfort. Avoiding ice falls on the left, we reach a snow cushion, along which we move up to the right (crevices!). Without reaching the ice falls to the right of the counterfort, we ascend along a snow-ice gully to the base of the counterfort (insurance through ice hooks!).

Movement along the counterfort is mainly on its right side, with exits to the center in several places:

• 30 m up along snow-covered slabs and 20 m along rocks of medium difficulty;
• traverse to the right onto a shelf, to the right of which a small snow-ice couloir is located;
• along rocks on the left side of the couloir and then along a slightly pronounced inner corner (30 m), we reach a ledge, from which a rocky wall (30 m) begins — the key section of the first ascent.

The rocky wall is passed:

• traversing to the right (5 m), then left-up along a crack to a shelf (10 m);
• right-up along a steep, smooth slab (8 m, very difficult climbing);
• then right-up along cracks to a platform with ledges.

On the wall, there are loose rocks.

From the platform:

• 30 m up along the right side of the counterfort (medium and difficult climbing) to an inclined shelf;
• further along cracks and shelves (60 m) to a large, gentle slab;
• traversing to the right and up the slab (40 m), we reach a large rock — a ledge, behind which a narrow snow-ice couloir opens, leading to the top of the first rocky ascent.

Here is a campsite. From the camp on the glacier — 12–13 hours.

Day 2.

From the campsite, along a snow-covered ridge — a knife-edge (60 m) and then up to the right along an ice slope (50 m) to a rocky outcrop, from which along a snow-ice ridge (60 m) to the base of the second rocky ascent. Along snow-covered slabs to the right and up (40 m), then along cracks and shelves on the right part of the ascent (70 m) and along steep slabs (70 m), we reach the rocky ridge of the second rocky ascent. The ridge abuts a rocky wall, which is taken head-on (difficult climbing). After the wall, the counterfort becomes gentler and turns into a snow-ice slope with rocky outcrops. Along this slope, we reach the eastern ridge. Having traversed 30 m towards the summit — a campsite. Total — 8 hours.

Day 3.

Along the ridge, 200 m to the summit tower. A small pinnacle is bypassed on the left along shelves, a large pinnacle is taken head-on. We descend into a depression. From here, the ascent to the summit tower begins.

• Along an ice couloir (60 m), we bypass a steep ascent on the left.
• Then, along a snow-ice slope, we approach a steep ascent, which is taken left-up along complex, icy, and snow-covered rocks (80 m).
• Further, along one of the steep rocky chimneys on the left part of the tower, we reach the summit ridge, which, after 40 m, leads to the summit.

From the last campsite — 4–6 hours.

Descent follows the route with a category III complexity through the third step of Kyundyum-Mizhyrgi icefall (see previous description). (The route is marked with a blue dotted line on the photo).