Fig. 12

41. Sugantau via the South Slope (snow and ice route, category 2B difficulty level, Fig. 12).

From the tourist base hut located on a wide grassy clearing in the Karasu valley, on the right bank of the Dykhsu River, at the entrance to the canyon of the same gorge (group size: 4-20 people), descend to the Karasu River along a trail and cross it via a bridge. Then, ascend along the Karasu River's bank in the direction of the Shtulu Pass. The trail crosses the river several times via small bridges.

Near the lake on the right bank of the Karasu River:

• Turn left, away from the trail leading to the Shtulu Pass;
• Ascend up the steep slope on the left bank of the Aksu River until reaching the confluence with the stream flowing from the Yuzhny Sugan Glacier.

After this:

• Cross the Aksu River;
• Ascend along the Yuzhny Sugan stream;
• Reach the glacier, preferably from the right;
• Traverse the gentle glacier, crossing it to the left, towards the Rtsyvaschki Pass.

The initial bivouac is located under the pass. The journey from the tourist base hut takes 5-7 hours.

From the bivouac, ascend up the gentle Yuzhny Sugan glacier to the right. Traverse the first step in the middle section, although it is possible to bypass it from the left via snowy slopes between the glacier and the rocks. Continue along the gentle glacier to the right, in the direction of the Gulchi Pass. After bypassing the glacier's icefalls from the right, turn left before reaching the pass and ascend up the gentle snowy slope of the glacier with several ice rises to the right.

Then:

• Ascend up a steep 60-80 meter ice-snow slope (using piton protection);
• Reach the upper snow plateau;
• Traverse the plateau to the left (watch out for hidden crevices);
• Approach the summit rise.

Next:

• Overcome the bergschrund from the plateau;
• Ascend up the 100-120 meter snowy slope of the summit rise to Sugantau.

The journey from the Rtsyvaschki Pass takes 6-8 hours.

The descent follows the ascent route. The total duration of the route is 2 days.

Source:

• Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.