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Route Description: 3 стене
### Ascent Description to the summit of Ameut Includes details on technically challenging sections, belaying, overnight stays, and the descent from the summit.
on the left side, straight up to the rope to the end of the couloir, which ends with a chimney filled with ice. Climbing is extremely cautious, as there are many loose rocks. Above the couloir is a sheer wall, so we traverse to the right through the couloir's throat and exit to its right side. It is necessary to cross the couloir quickly due to the hanging crevice, from which pieces of ice break off and shoot through this couloir. In this section, the belay is piton (4 pitons), movement is along the fixed ropes. Section 56 From the couloir, we move to the rocks, which are steep but heavily dissected. Straight up, we climb one rope to a small ledge, where we can gather everyone. The time is already late, and we still haven't found a suitable platform for the tent. After
Route Description: центру С стены
First ascent of the north wall of Zindon peak (4800 m, Pamir-Alay) via the center of the wall, a route of category 6 complexity.
- The ascent category — technical
- Ascent area — Fan Mountains, Pamir-Alay
- Ascent route with indication of peaks and their elevations: via the center of the north wall of ZINDON 4800 m, first ascent.
- Proposed difficulty category — 6B
- Route characteristics: height difference 1200 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1089 m, average steepness — 84°
- Number of pitons and chocks used for protection and artificial aids: rock — 334 (140), ice — 42 (2), bolt — 17 (16), chocks — 49 (37)
- Number of climbing hours — 118
- Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 8 bivouacs, including:
- sitting in a tent — 3
- semi-reclining in a tent — 4
Route Description: ЮЗ гребню
Ascent record of the "Kant" alpine club team to Peak A. Blok (5239 m) via the south-west ridge in 1989, category of complexity 5B.
Ascent Passport
of the Kaliningrad Regional Council of the VDFSO Trade Unions (alpine club "Kant") team within the framework of the first Championship of the Russian Council of VDFSO Trade Unions on alpinism 1989.
- Ascent class — technical.
- Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range.
- Ascent object — Peak A. Blok (5239 m) via the southwestern ridge (Petricheko route).
- Route difficulty category — 5B.
- Route characteristics:
- Height difference — 963 m
- Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 367 m
- Average steepness: overall — 52.4°
Route Description: левой части СЗ стены
Passport and description of the technical route 6A cat. via the left part of the North-Eastern wall to the summit 100-летие крещения Руси in the Turkestan Range.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent class — technical 2. Area — Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge, Karavshin river valley 3. Peak 1000-letie krashcheniya Rusi, via the left part of the NW wall 4. 6A category of difficulty, second ascent — did not complete the upper part! 5. Height difference — 1307 m, route length — 1890 m, average steepness — 54°. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 990 m, including 365 m of 6 category. Steepness of the main route section: first wall — 62°, second wall — 83° 6. Pitons driven:
| Rock | Bolts | Nuts | Ice |
|---|---|---|---|
| 120 | 3 | 277 | 12 |
Route Description: центру С стены
Description of the route along the North face of Peak 4240 in the spurs of the Turkestan Range, category of complexity 6B, first ascent in 1988.
Passport
I. Rock climbing category. 2. Spurs of the Turkestan Range, Ak-su gorge. 3. Peak 4240 m, center of the North face. 4. Proposed 6B category of complexity, first ascent. 5. Height difference 830 m, length 968 m length of 6B sections — 583 m, 5B — 267 m average slope of the route — 75°, average slope of the wall section — 81° 6. Driven pitons: rock placement elements bolt ice
Route Description: внутренним углам СЗ стены
Report on the first ascent of Pik Breeze (4430 m) via the North-West Wall in Karavshin, complexity category 6B.
Russian Mountaineering Championship
High-altitude and technical class, 2023
Report
on the ascent to the summit of peak Breeze, 4430 m, via the internal corners of the northwest wall, 6B category of complexity, approximately. First ascent by the team from Krasnoyarsk from July 24, 2023, to July 25, 2023. 2023
I. Ascent Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Prokofyev D.E. (MS) |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Popova M.E. (MS) |
Route Description: правому З кф.
Description of the category 3B route via the right western counterfort of the Ermolaeva peak, including details on the ascent and required equipment.
2. via N.-W. counterfort, 2A
3. via the left edge of 3rd counterfort, 3A
4. via the right S.-W. counterfort, 2B
5. via the W. wall, 3B
6. via the right W. counterfort, 3B
Via the right Western counterfort, category 3B
From the base camp, move along the right bank of the right tributary of the Ulu river. After 20-25 minutes of movement, begin the ascent up a snowy couloir to the left of the rightmost counterfort of the summit. Having gone about 300 m, exit to the left onto the rocks of the western counterfort and approach the wall along large snowy, in some places icy, inclined slabs. The station is on the archa. Start with 10 m up the inner corner on the right, then move along gentle ledges under a small 5 m 80° wall, from which exit onto inclined slabs under the key section. It is passed through a clear gap in the right part of the wall, with an exit then into an inner corner. There are places with ice and a couple of "hourglasses." Then, bypassing the drop on the left, ascend to the saddle along the right side of the counterfort via inclined slabs, to the left of which is a control cairn under the wall. From the saddle, traverse right for 10 m to exit into a snowy chimney on the southern wall and climb back onto the counterfort. Having passed a three-meter step, move left along a horizontal ledge, and then ascend to the South ridge along the left side of the counterfort, bypassing its "fence." To the right, the counterfort drops steeply down. Having reached the ridge, move left towards Mt. Ermolaeva. The duration of the main part of the ascent is 4-5 hours. Descent is via route 1B along the South ridge.
Route Description: м-т Лэйбел Верджинья
Report on ascending Clocher de Planpraz peak via the South-Eastern Spire, a Category 2B route. The route description includes technical characteristics of sections and the team's actions.
REPORT
On the ascent to the summit of Clocher de planpraz via the southeastern spur, category 2B, by group №7 of the University Tourist Section of FASPb at the "Polytechnic" Alpine Club on August 4, 2018
I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Kovalev Alexander Nikolaevich, CMS |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Andronov Kirill Sergeevich unranked, Kaminskaya Victoria Evgenievna unranked, Grabko Ilya Olegovich unranked, Khlopin Dmitry Mikhailovich unranked |
| 1.3 | Full name of coach | Molodozhen V.A. |
| 1.4 | Organization | Alpine Club "Polytechnic", St. Petersburg |
| 2. Characteristics of the ascent object |
Route Description: Ю стене, траверс
Report on traversing the Cinque Torri (2996 m) Dolomites massif, grade 3B, on August 16, 2010.
Alpine Federation of Russia
REPORT
on the ascent to Mt. Five Fingers (Funffingerspitzen, 2996 m) in the Dolomites (Italy) — traverse of the massif from East to West, category 3B, approximately on August 16, 2010. Leader: Smirnov V.V. Participants: Penyaev I.N. Mikhaylova I.V. Team Coach: Smirnov V.V. St. Petersburg 2010
Route Description: СВ гребню
Description of the route of the first ascent to the summit of Metiko (3812 m) along the North-Eastern ridge, category 2A.
PASSPORT
I. Category of first ascents. 2.2.10., mountains of Dagestan, Shalib ridge. 3. Metiko, 3812 m, from the north and along the north-eastern ridge, combined. 4. Assumed 2A category of difficulty. 5. Height difference 500 m, average steepness 40°, length 1000 m; of which 1 category of difficulty – 300 m, 2 category of difficulty – 655 m, 3 category of difficulty – 45 m. 6. Pitons hammered for rock protection – 1, 3 snow anchors placed. 7. Group's moving hours – 4 hours. 8. Without overnight stays. 9. Leader: Konstantin Eduardovich Dorro, 1st sports category.