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Description of the ascent to Peak Paustovsky via the North Ridge

We reach the Paustovsky glacier moraine. The lower part of the glacier is flat and crevasse-free. One should head towards a large rocky outcrop that ends in the north ridge. Then:

• Ascend via ledges and steps with careful belaying, deviating slightly left.
• Be aware of loose rocks.
• In the upper part, a snow cornice is bypassed on the left. The path along the rocky outcrop leads to the ridge. Here, a large snow plateau with a slope to the right opens up. After traversing 80–100 m, we reach the snow ridge, which should be traversed wearing crampons. The ridge ends at a gendarme. The ascent to the gendarme begins with a steep ice slope. About 2/3 of the way up, there's a rocky outcrop. Belaying is done using an ice screw. The slope's steepness is 60–70°, and it's ascended by cutting steps.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent region: North Tien-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe gorge
3. Peak, route: Pik Pioner (4031 m), from Pioner pass.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 1B
5. Height difference: 170 m total route length: 300 m, wall section length: — of which 5 pitches — 0.6 pitches — 0, average steepness of wall section — 40°, average steepness of route — 40°
6. Pitons driven (numbers in denominator — for IT): no data for rock, ice, cams, bolted
7. Number of walking hours/days:
8. Overnight stays: —

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Trans-Ili Alatau.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Pioneer, 4050 m, via the southern wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: a) wall height difference — 275 m; b) section lengths: 2 — 30 m; 3 — 445 m; 4 — 115 m; 5 — 92 m; c) average wall steepness — 68°.
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying, for creating intermediate belays, rock pitons — 33, bolt pitons — 4, chocks — 6.
7. Total climbing hours — 7 h 20 min.
8. Number of overnight stays — none.
9. Full name of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:

Pik Pioner via the center of the South face, 4B, Smirnov, 1980

R0–R1 From a mossy and grassy ledge, ascend the wall via ledges to a small cornice, under which a hook is placed for the belay station. A white patch on the wall to the right of a black streak serves as an orientation point. R1–R2 Move left along the 80° wall with horizontal slots and local pitons to the base of an internal corner, up which you ascend (6A). To the right of the route, there is a small ledge with a hammered hook and a hole for a spit. You can set up a belay station there or climb further and establish it on a small ledge about 10 meters higher. R2–R3 A nerve-wracking rope pitch. The entire section is 25 meters, but:

• Not everywhere is there good protection,
• There is a loose block that you need to grasp to climb up. From the chip off to the left Up the little corner to a slab, above which local pitons and a drill hole are placed. R3–R4 The crux pitch. There's a scoop with a crack in its depth. The upper part involves exiting through an overhang. The pleasant aspect is that you can set up a reliable belay and calmly focus on climbing. The crux, in my estimation, is 6B. Then, a couple more belay stations above the exit, and a reclining internal corner begins, leading to a large ledge where "Urubko, Smirnov, Gryaznov, Babeshkin routes" converge.

Ascent from the Salanov Glacier, route 2B cat. diff. (fig. 27). The peak Salanov is located in the Aktau spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge in the upper reaches of the Salanov Glacier. Dmitry Salanov was one of the first climbers in Kazakhstan and died during the Great Patriotic War. From the bivouac site on the Shokalsky Glacier moraine, the ascent begins along the tongue of the Salanov Glacier and further along the glacier on the left side to the saddle between the peaks Chekist and Salanov Peak. The saddle is visible from the glacier. The ascent to the saddle should be done via a wide couloir, initially not clearly defined. The bottom of the couloir is covered with snow in the first half of summer and later filled with a gentle scree. Ascent:

• from the overnight stay at Zelyonaya Polyana - up to 2.5 hours.
• from the overnight stay on the Shokalsky Glacier moraine - about 2 hours. There is a cairn on the saddle. The ascent from the saddle is through a "window" to the right of the direction of travel. Belaying is required. Further along the snowfield, bypassing a series of small rock outcrops on the left. Belaying via ice axe. The subsequent path along the ridge is blocked by 4 gendarmes:

Soviet Alpinists (4379 m)

Ascent to the West summit via the northwest ridge — category 1B difficulty

North of the Molodaya Gvardiya peak, a ridge called Turistov stretches from the Malo-Almatinsky spur towards the Leviy Talgar gorge. Here, immediately beyond the branch, the Soviet Alpinists peaks, West and Main, rise. The initial bivouac is on the moraine of the Mutny glacier. The ascent route runs through the Turistov pass (4030 m) along the northwest ridge of the peak. From the pass, turn south, moving along the scree towards large rock fragments, then onto the rocky ridge. The rocks are easy, moderately difficult, and heavily weathered. After 100–120 m, move into a couloir with a slab-like structure. The rock is heavily damaged (be cautious!). Traverse the couloir to the right, ascend to a rock tower and bypass it on the right. Further, the route passes along the northwest rocky ridge past easy gendarmes to a firn section with a slope of 35–40°. Then, again rocks lead to the West summit. The ascent from the pass to the West summit takes 4–5 hours. The climb is not recommended for a large group due to the severe rock damage. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 7–8 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants: 6–8 people.
2. Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Mutny glacier.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 6:00.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people — 2 × 30 m dynamic rope.

Route Description to the Summit of "40 let Kazakhstana"

At 5 am, the group left the base camp located on the ancient lateral moraine of the Djasil-Kul glacier. Moving along the top of the moraine for a distance of 2 km, the group reached the base of the northern ridge of the peak by 6 am. Ascending to the right along the talus for 120–130 m, we reach the ridge. The ridge initially consists of easy and moderate rocks, then, after 100 m, a 60 m high rock wall is encountered. Descending to the left for 50–60 m, we traverse the wall along a ledge with piton belay and rejoin the ridge. After proceeding 250–300 m along the ridge, we have to traverse the slope to the right, as the ridge is heavily damaged, and there are steep drops to the left. After traversing 100–120 m, we begin the ascent to the saddle between the end of the rocky ridge and the ice ascent. The ascent is made along a snow-ice couloir with a steepness of 55–60°. Here, we had to set up a rope belay. The further path goes along the ice ascent towards the rocky outcrop: the length of the ascent is 40 m, the steepness is over 60°. The lead climber ascended in crampons and, securing the rope on the rocks, belayed the others along the rope. From the rocky outcrop, an ice slope begins, which we cross from right to left upwards to the main ridge of the peak. The length of the slope is 200–250 m. The ridge is snowy and leads directly to the summit tower. The tower is a weathered glacial roche moutonnee. To the west, it drops steeply towards the glacier

Minutes of the Uzelskaya Classification Commission Meeting

July 29, 1978 Talgar Alpine Camp The Uzelskaya Classification Commission, appointed by the authorized Sports Committee of the USSR for the Tian-Shan region, Comrade R.P. Stroganov (order No. 6 dated July 28, 1978), consisting of:

1. V.N. Zapeka — senior instructor, Master of Sports — Chairman of the Commission
2. A.V. Kelberg — senior instructor, Master of Sports — member of the commission
3. E.L. Vardanov — senior instructor, Candidate for Master of Sports — member
4. V.A. Ganyalin — senior instructor, Candidate for Master of Sports — member
5. V.I. Shabrukov — instructor, 1st sports category — member

Tokhsan-Attyn (4040 m)

Traverse from east to west — category 2A

The Tokhsan-Attyn peak is located in the upper reaches of a lateral gorge with a small river of the same name, which is a left tributary of the Kaskelen River. Moving along the left bank of the Kaskelen River, turn into the Tokhsan-Attyn gorge and go up*. After 40–50 minutes, the trapezoidal Tokhsan-Attyn peak becomes clearly visible. Its northern slopes are covered with snowfields, interspersed with outcrops of rocks. At the foot of the peak are accumulations of small ridges of ancient moraines. The ascent route should be started from a large stone in the center of the cirque. Crossing the moraine piles in the direction of the northeast ridge, continue moving along the right source of the Tokhsan-Attyn stream to the foot of the ridge. The ascent to the ridge begins along a small and medium talus. In its upper part, the rocks are heavily destroyed. The gendarmes encountered are bypassed on the left side. About an hour later, there is an approach to a snow-ice couloir (its length is 70–80 m), framed by heavily destroyed rocks (be careful!). It is better to move further along the snow. At the end of the season, there may be flow ice in the couloir. It ends with a small cornice, having hacked through which, you get to the summit ridge. From the ridge, an unforgettable panorama of the Kungey Alatau ridge opens, separated from the Trans-Ili Alatau by the wide valley of the Chonkemin River. The majestic Choktal peak, the highest point of the Kungey Alatau ridge, is clearly visible. The summit ridge is rocky, consisting of massive gendarmes and accumulations of rock fragments. The rocks are easy and moderately difficult. The first gendarme made of slabs is overcome head-on; the second, having the appearance of a huge cube, is passed along a clearly defined crevice.

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.