Ascent via the North Edge from the Molodaya Gvardiya Glacier — cat. diff. 2B (4394 m) (fig. 10)

In the southern part of the Malo-Almatinsky spur, which is the watershed of the Bolshaya Almatinka and Levy Talgar rivers, rises the majestic ice-snow pyramid of the Molodaya Gvardiya peak. Fig. 10 The most convenient approach paths to the route are via the Ozerny valley to the Gryazny Glacier. The initial bivouac is organized on the moraine of the glacier. Moving along the right side of the glacier and overcoming a series of crevasses, one exits onto a relatively gentle section at the foot of the northern slope. Continue the ascent up the ice slope with a steepness of up to 40° to the first sentinel on the northern edge of the peak massif. Cats are required on this section. Having overcome the bergschrund and a small icefall, approach the heavily destroyed rocks. Then proceed along the edge; the rocks are of medium difficulty, and exit onto the main North Edge, which approaches the first sentinel. There are cornices on the eastern side of the ridge (be cautious!). The sentinel, up to 20 m high, is bypassed on the right via cut steps in an ice gully, with a steepness of up to 50° and a length of 20–25 m. After ascending onto a very sharp ridge, within 15 minutes one can approach the second sentinel, which is up to 50 m high. After a terrace, there is an exit onto a small steep scree leading to rocks of medium difficulty and onto a steep snowfield ending in a small cornice. To exit onto the ridge via the cornice, a diagonal cutting is necessary.

Ascent Description for Peak Mukana Tulebaeva

The ascent starts with reaching the ridge of the 3850 peak towards the big gendarme. You should rope up under the gendarme. The gendarme is climbed directly via a snowy couloir. We ascend to its top via easy rocks with alternating belay. Further, there is a gentle ridge. The path is obstructed by a series of gendarmes composed of easy and moderate rocks. They are taken directly. You should proceed with caution, as the rocks are heavily deteriorated. Then, via a rather steep talus ridge, we reach the 3850 peak. (The peak was tentatively named Peak Auezov.) Further, descending via a short gentle ridge, we begin the ascent along the ridge of Peak Mukana Tulebaeva. The ridge is gentle, but the rocks are heavily deteriorated. Two gendarmes on the route are bypassed via a rather steep snowy slope on the left. The exit to the summit is via a gentle talus slope. The summit is heavily deteriorated and not clearly defined. The height is 3980 m. Descent is via the ascent route to the saddle between the 3850 peak and Peak Mukana Tulebaeva, and then via a couloir to the south. The couloir has medium and fine talus. The entire route takes about 8 hours. The group requests it to be rated as Category 1B difficulty.

Peak Mukana Tulebaeva

Peak Mukana Tulebaeva.

North Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Oktyabrenok

via North-North-West ridge For category of difficulty

Climbing Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — North Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloye Almatinskoye valley.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Oktyabrenok 3650 m, via North-North-West ridge.
3. Proposed: 3A cat. dif.

Northern Tien Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau

Peak Oktyabrionok

via the central bastion of the NW edge 4A cat. diff.

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — Northern Tien Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe gorge.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Oktyabrionok 3650 m, via the right part of the Western edge
3. Proposed: 4A cat. diff.

7.2.172 Oktyabrenok

Center of the NE wall (Samara variant), 4B

K. Belotserkovsky, 2013 Description of the ascent, and why the variant is called "Samara" "North-Eastern wall of Oktyabrenok, Samara variant". A more direct variant of the previous route.

• A long 4B with a good level of climbing.
• On the fifth rope, large camalots (#4–5) may come in handy, or you will just have to endure a bit (I endured).
• The sixth rope, as described, can become famous due to its start.
• Difficult climbing on a slightly overhanging wall.
• Further, exit to a shelf via corners, where the routes converge.

Sportclub "Burevestnik" Group

consisting of:

1. Ilyinsky E.T. — leader, experienced climber
2. Toporkov A. — participant
3. Shablitskaya L. — experienced climber
4. Nevsky Ya. — experienced climber
5. From Myndzhilki, we ascended to the Tuk-Su moraine via a trail. From the foot of Mayakovsky, we had to trample a trail to the Ordzhonikidze Pass. The snow had become soggy by then and sank up to the waist. We spent the night on the pass as we reached it by the fourth hour.
6. The next day, we descended to the east Ordzhonikidze glacier. Initially, we traversed an scree slope, followed by a 60° ice slope. We traversed the glacier until we reached the terminal moraine beneath the northeast ridge's rock wall. The descent took 2 hours and 30 minutes. Then, we ascended towards the first rock wall via very deep snow. The ascent was directed towards a rock island standing before a couloir that led to the ridge (photos 1 and 2). The rock island was initially ascended directly via broken rocks. In the upper section, it was bypassed to the left via a 60° ice slope (1 rope length) with step-cutting, as the snow did not hold. Upon reaching the rock island, we continued ascending via the couloir to the left of our route. The first 1.5 rope lengths consisted of ice up to 70°, which was traversed with step-cutting and piton belay (2 pitons). Then, the slope became gentler, and the couloir was filled with snow above human height. Due to the loose snow and avalanche danger, we had to exit to the left wall and traverse diagonally upwards to the right with piton belay (3 rope lengths) — exiting into the upper section of the couloir. From here, a heavily snow-covered slope of approximately 45° led to the ridge (2 rope lengths).

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent region: North Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloe Alma-Atinskoe gorge
3. Peak, route: Ordzhonikidze Peak (4410 m), via S slope, first ascent.
4. Presumed category of difficulty: 4B, combined
5. Height difference: 600 m total route length — 840 m, wall section length — 720 m, of which 5th category of difficulty — no, 6th category of difficulty — no, average steepness of wall section — 60°, average steepness of route — 50°
6. Pitons driven (figures in denominator — for ITI): rock — 6/0, ice — 47/0, chocks — 0, bolt pitons — 0
7. Number of climbing hours/days: 8 hours/1 day

Otechestvennoy voyny 18 c.t. from l. 3 Ordzhonikidze along the S ridge

Route description.

Initial bivouac on the right lateral moraine of Tuyksu glacier. From here, move in the direction of the northwest lateral ridge of Ordzhonikidze peak. Before reaching it, turn left. Ascend a steep scree to the terminal part of Zapadny Ordzhonikidze glacier, then traverse it to a drop, bypass it on the right, and continue ascending the scree to the last ridge of rocks descending from Mayakovsky peak. From here, begin ascending the western ridge. Traverse easy, broken rocks or, further to the right, a couloir filled with small and medium scree. Upon reaching the ridge, continue moving towards the col between Mayakovsky and Otechestvennoy voyny peaks (50–60 m). Further:

• Scree, followed by broken rocks, will lead to the beginning of the southern ridge of "Otechestvennoy voyny" peak.
• Small gendarmes on the ridge should be bypassed on the left. To rejoin the ridge, overcome a couloir ending in a steep rocky section (pitons, 2–3 hooks). After overcoming several gendarmes directly, reach the summit. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 6–7 hours.

Recommendations:

4.2.154

Description of the ascent to Peak Paustovsky via the North Ridge

We reach the Paustovsky glacier moraine. The lower part of the glacier is flat and crevasse-free. One should head towards a large rocky outcrop that ends in the north ridge. Then:

• Ascend via ledges and steps with careful belaying, deviating slightly left.
• Be aware of loose rocks.
• In the upper part, a snow cornice is bypassed on the left. The path along the rocky outcrop leads to the ridge. Here, a large snow plateau with a slope to the right opens up. After traversing 80–100 m, we reach the snow ridge, which should be traversed wearing crampons. The ridge ends at a gendarme. The ascent to the gendarme begins with a steep ice slope. About 2/3 of the way up, there's a rocky outcrop. Belaying is done using an ice screw. The slope's steepness is 60–70°, and it's ascended by cutting steps.

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.