I. Rock grade 20: height difference — 700 m, average steepness — 45° 35: Borisov E.I. — Candidate Master of Sports, instructor. Lukin A.A. — 3rd sports grade, Launitc D.V. — 3rd sports grade, Luneva R.A. — 3rd sports grade, Baymølin G.A. — 2nd sports grade. 10. Team coach — MS Kuznetsova N.P. II. Date of departure on the route and return — April 30, 1982. 2. Western Tian-Shan, Pokemsky ridge. Piazak 3. v. Piazak, 3718 m, from the saddle of the Northern ridge. 4. Category of difficulty 2B, 15 rock 5. Route characteristics:

August 15.

Route Description

3718 m. From the base camp located on the moraine under the northern walls of Mt. Piazak, the approach to the saddle of the North Ridge is via a snowy couloir (scree in summer) along the rocky outcrops on the left (1 hour). From the saddle: — right along the ridge (60 m, 45°, snow) under a rocky outcrop; — then along the couloir (40 m, 50°, snow, местами натёчный лёд) towards the rocky wall in the ridge (piton belay). The wall is traversed on the left and via broken rocks — exit to a steep snowy section of the ridge. Moving on the right side of the ridge, exit onto broken rocks. Along the snowy ridge 250 m to the summit (snow cornices on both sides, movement in rope teams). The summit is broken rocks. In fact, the summit of Piazak is double-headed. The Eastern and Western summits are at least 500 m apart and are of equal height. The ridge between them is snowy and presents no technical difficulty. The control cairn is set on the Eastern summit. The descent from the summit to the base camp took 2 hours via the ascent route. A easier descent is possible via the Western summit along its Western slope into another cirque, but in this case, having lost altitude, one will have to climb back to the base camp, bypassing Piazak from the West.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - technical 2. Ascent area - Western Tian-Shan, Pskem Ridge 3. Ascent route - peak "Koi-Tau" 3560 m via North-Eastern counterfort 4. Estimated complexity category - 4A 5. Route characteristics: - height difference - 520 m - average steepness - 66° 6. Pitons hammered: - rock - 68

Zamok (3670) via the center of the North Ridge — 5A (rock)

Climbing Route Passport:

1. Western Tian Shan, Pskem Ridge, section №7.14 according to the 2013 classifier
2. Zamok peak (3670 m) via the center of the North Ridge (c. N. r.)
3. 5A category of difficulty
4. First ascent: Sergeev A. (1982)
5. Description compiled by: Shekhovtsov S., Makhmudov U., Mayorova L. (2013)

Route Description:

From the base camp on the moraine under Zamok peak, it takes 1 hour to reach the foot of the wall via scree or snow. Approach the wall, bypassing a massive red "rhombus" on the right, which is half the height of the wall. Above the "rhombus," a rock ridge is clearly visible, along which the route goes. Start of the route. Continue moving left and upwards along the wall via a system of scree inclined shelves, alternating with short, easy walls. — 400 m.

3. The summit, its height, and the ascent route: Bolshoy Chimgan (3277 m), the left buttress of the north-eastern wall.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 4B.
5. Characteristics of the route: height difference along the route — 1677 m. average steepness of the route — 70° length of sections of category I difficulty — 2500 m, II category difficulty — 1880 m, III category difficulty — 190 m, IV category difficulty — 85 m, V category difficulty — 220 m, VI category difficulty — 20 m
6. Number of pitons driven: for belaying 114 pcs; for creating artificial footholds 2 pcs. rock — 114 pcs, ice and snow —
7. Number of travel hours — 23 hours.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: one overnight stay, on a scree ledge, good bivouac.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification: Leader: Murtazin Oleg Galimovich — 1st sports category.

Map of the area ▲ – base camp △ – overnight stay location → – ascent and descent route from the summit.

Brief description of the route

1. Brief description of the approach to the route From the "Chimgan" tourist center, head upwards towards the GuliKam or Pesochny pass (1833 m). Then, through the pass, into the GuliKam gorge until the confluence of GuliKamsay and Kuilyuksay (1.5–2 hours). Here, the trail branches:

• one leads to the GuliKam gorges;
• the other — upstream along the Kuilyuksay riverbed to the start of the route — the base of the far-reaching left counterfort of the north-eastern wall of Bolshoy Chimgan.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent region — Tian Shan, Chatkal Ridge.
3. Ascent route — to the summit of Big Chimgan via the north-eastern wall. Summit elevation — 3207 m above sea level.
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • elevation gain — 2000 m;
   • average steepness — 62°;
   • complex section length — 700 m.
5. Pitons hammered in:
   • rock — 35

Climbing Passport

I. Climbing category — technical. 2. Climbing area — Tian Shan, Chatkal Range. 3. Climbing route — to v. Bolshoy Chimgan via the northwest wall, peak height — 3207 m above sea level. 4. Climbing characteristics: — height difference — 1500 m, — average steepness — 65°, — length of the difficult section — 600 m. 5. Pitons hammered: — rock — 55

Description of the First Ascent Route to Peak Bolshoy Chimgan via the Left Counterfort of the Wall, Category 3B

February 6, 1978

We depart from the base camp located in the Ak-Sai valley at 10:00. We ascend to the Western Ridge via a Category 1B route. Upon reaching the junction of the Western Ridge and a false ridge (joining from the right), we descend with a slight traverse of the Western Ridge towards the summit. Descending into the Belder-Sai valley, we move upstream until the confluence of three couloirs. We continue up the left couloir. Approaching the wall, it's easy to identify the counterfort, which the route follows, forming the right side of the central couloir that divides the entire Belder-Sai rock massif into two parts. The route begins from a cave located at the boundary between snow and rock, one rope length away from the left edge of the counterfort. The cave provides a good overnight stay and has a guiding cairn. The entire approach took 9–10 hours.

February 7, 1978

Departure at 9:30.

R1

Ascent Certificate

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Tian Shan, Chatkal Ridge.
3. Peak, its area, and ascent route: Bolshoy Chimgan (3277 m), Northwest Wall.
4. Route characteristics: height difference — 1700 m, average steepness — 30°. Section lengths: R0–R1 – 25 m, R1–R2 – 60 m, R2–R3 – 60 m, R3–R4 – 70 m, R4–R5 – 200 m, R5–R6 – 40 m, R6–R7 – 80 m, R7–R8 – 300 m.
5. Proposed difficulty category — 3A.
6. Pitons hammered:
   • for belaying: rock — 12.