Цоя
Route Description: траверс
Traverse of the peaks Coya and Khabarovsk Alpinists, cat. 2A, 6-7 hours, ridge route with dense firn and piton belay.
Mt. Tsoya (2130 m) – Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m), category 2A
From the base camp, having ascended to the terrace of the left bank of the Ulun River, move 40 minutes downstream. Having rounded the entire Northeast ridge of Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok, reach the foot of Mt. 1942. The ascent to Mt. Tsoya is done along the Northeast ridge via Mt. 1942. The right slope of the ridge is covered with very dense firn, movement is only possible in crampons. The time taken to move along the ridge to Mt. Tsoya is 2–2.5 hours. Insurance is simultaneous. Mt. Tsoya is a snow-covered dome. Further movement from the summit along the Southeast ridge:
- Insurance is simultaneous.
- Movement is in crampons.
- After 20–25 minutes, reach a large "gendarme" which is overcome "head-on".
- The use of pitons or camming devices is possible.
- The further ridge is heavily dissected, several small 20–30-meter "gendarmes" are encountered, passable "head-on" with alternating insurance.
- 1 hour 20–30 minutes after the large "gendarme", reach the summit tower.
Route Description: правому ребру В гребня
### Ascent via the Right Edge of the Eastern Ridge of Tsoy Peak, Category 4A Detailed guide to climbing Tsoy Peak via its Eastern Ridge's right edge, a route classified as category 4A. The description includes critical sections, required equipment, and essential safety recommendations.
- via the left edge of the E. ridge, 2B
- via the right edge of the E. ridge, 4A
Via the right edge of the Eastern ridge, 4A category of difficulty
From the base camp, having ascended to the terrace on the left bank of the Ulun river, proceed to the gorge of Mt. Tsoy to the start of the route. This takes 1–1.5 hours. Then:
- Ascend 200 m along the snowy slope;
- further, move along the slabs and internal corner to reach a snow shelf 30 m;
- at the upper part of the corner, there is a plug and an awkward transition;
- then move 160 m along moderately difficult rocks to the base of a large "gendarme" — it is clearly visible from below;
Route Description: левому ребру В гребня
Description of the route along the left edge of the East ridge of Mount Tsoya, category 2B complexity, with details of the passage and equipment recommendations.
- Left edge of the E ridge, 2B
- Right edge of the E ridge, 4A
Left edge of the East ridge, 2B cat. difficulty
From the base camp, having ascended to the terrace of the left bank of the Ulun river, move downstream. Round the entire North-Eastern ridge of peak Khabarovskikh Alpinistok and reach the far end of the Coya cirque to the start of the route. The approach takes 40 minutes on skis. At the beginning of the route be attentive — there are dangerous couloirs on the left and right. Climb 150 m to the beginning of the edge. The beginning of the ascent passes along gently sloping, heavily snow-covered rocks about 100 m to the base of the first large "gendarme". It is passed on the right along rather technically complex internal corners and slabs (key section 95 m). Then 100 m at the same time to the base of the second large "gendarme". Pass it:
- on the right along the slabs,
- or straight up along the crevice 40 m (second key section).