- via the left edge of the E. ridge, 2B
- via the right edge of the E. ridge, 4A
Via the right edge of the Eastern ridge, 4A category of difficulty
From the base camp, having ascended to the terrace on the left bank of the Ulun river, proceed to the gorge of Mt. Tsoy to the start of the route. This takes 1–1.5 hours.
Then:
- Ascend 200 m along the snowy slope;
- further, move along the slabs and internal corner to reach a snow shelf 30 m;
- at the upper part of the corner, there is a plug and an awkward transition;
- then move 160 m along moderately difficult rocks to the base of a large "gendarme" — it is clearly visible from below;
- pass it on the right, using ladders on a 3-meter wall.
The main challenging sections of the route follow. Climbing is difficult. The first climber should wear galoshes.
Over a 120-meter section, climbing of 4th-5th category of difficulty along 80-degree internal corners and walls leads directly to the "roof" of the bastion. Here is a 15-meter gentle section of the edge.
Then:
- 120 m — climbing is average and above average;
- belay via protrusions;
- further, the edge becomes gentler and after 90 m of snowy rocks, it leads to the E. ridge.
The total ascent time from the start of the route is 6 hours.
Descend along the ridge to the right, towards the peak 1942 m.
Route safety assessment
The route is logical. Due to the organization of fixed ropes on a long section:
- pay attention to falling rocks;
- pay attention to the work of the first climber.
On the descent, careful work is required on the dense firn of the ridge.
Recommendations for subsequent groups on equipment usage and route passage specifics
For a group of 6 people, it is necessary to have:
- 20 rock pitons;
- 16 wired cams;
- 8 quickdraws;
- 3 hammers;
- 2 ladders.
Crampons and ice axes for each participant. The first climber should preferably have galoshes and sufficient technique to pass difficult sections of 4th-5th category of difficulty.
Characteristic signs of the route start
It is necessary to approach the route by going as far as possible into the depth of the Mt. Tsoy cirque. The edge is clearly visible from below. It is best to approach on skis and as early as possible in the morning.