- Left edge of the E ridge, 2B
- Right edge of the E ridge, 4A
Left edge of the East ridge, 2B cat. difficulty
From the base camp, having ascended to the terrace of the left bank of the Ulun river, move downstream. Round the entire North-Eastern ridge of peak Khabarovskikh Alpinistok and reach the far end of the Coya cirque to the start of the route. The approach takes 40 minutes on skis.
At the beginning of the route be attentive — there are dangerous couloirs on the left and right. Climb 150 m to the beginning of the edge.
The beginning of the ascent passes along gently sloping, heavily snow-covered rocks about 100 m to the base of the first large "gendarme". It is passed on the right along rather technically complex internal corners and slabs (key section 95 m).
Then 100 m at the same time to the base of the second large "gendarme". Pass it:
- on the right along the slabs,
- or straight up along the crevice 40 m (second key section).
Further along the heavily dissected ridge with three small "gendarmes", overcoming:
- the first — on the left,
- both following — head-on, after 45 m reach a gently sloping snow ridge.
Climb 60 m along a simple ridge to the right to peak Coya.
The total ascent time is 6 hours.
The descent from peak Coya is carried out:
- towards the peak with a height of 1942 m,
- further down into the gorge.
The descent from the peak and ascent to the base camp takes 1.5 hours.
Assessment of the route's safety
The danger is represented by key areas due to the snow cover and ice on the rocks, as well as areas of steep snow slopes due to the possibility of avalanches. It is necessary to be careful when descending from peak Coya — very dense firn.
Recommendations for subsequent groups on the use of equipment and route passage features
For a group of 6 people it is necessary to have:
- 10–12 rock pitons,
- 10 placing elements,
- runners,
- hammers,
- each participant should have an ice axe and crampons.
Characteristic signs of the start of the route
The edge along which it is necessary to ascend is the extreme left one, the beginning of the ascent to it is located under a very large "gendarme" of the East ridge of peak Coya. At the beginning of the route there is a pronounced snow "cushion".