Mt. Tsoya (2130 m) – Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m), category 2A

From the base camp, having ascended to the terrace of the left bank of the Ulun River, move 40 minutes downstream. Having rounded the entire Northeast ridge of Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok, reach the foot of Mt. 1942.

The ascent to Mt. Tsoya is done along the Northeast ridge via Mt. 1942. The right slope of the ridge is covered with very dense firn, movement is only possible in crampons. The time taken to move along the ridge to Mt. Tsoya is 2–2.5 hours. Insurance is simultaneous. Mt. Tsoya is a snow-covered dome.

Further movement from the summit along the Southeast ridge:

• Insurance is simultaneous.
• Movement is in crampons.
• After 20–25 minutes, reach a large "gendarme" which is overcome "head-on".
• The use of pitons or camming devices is possible.
• The further ridge is heavily dissected, several small 20–30-meter "gendarmes" are encountered, passable "head-on" with alternating insurance.
• 1 hour 20–30 minutes after the large "gendarme", reach the summit tower.

The simplest path to ascend the tower:

• Passes along the wall to the right of the chimney.
• Climbing is quite difficult, requires piton insurance with hanging belays (crux section).
• The passage of the wall takes the group 1 hour 20–30 minutes.

After the wall:

• Move along a simple snow-covered ridge for 15–20 meters to reach Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok.

Descent from the summit:

• Along the Northeast ridge and East buttress (route of ascent to Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok category 1B).
• The descent from the summit to the base camp takes 1 hour.

Total traverse time — 6–7 hours.

Safety Assessment of the Route

The route is ridge-like throughout. Snow cornices on the left pose a danger. There are many loose rocks on the crux section.

Recommendations for Subsequent Groups on Equipment Use

For a group of 6 people, the following is necessary:

• 5–7 rock pitons
• 4–6 camming devices
• quickdraws
• hammers

Each participant should have crampons and an ice axe.

Characteristic Signs of the Route's Beginning

It is possible to reach the Northeast ridge at the start of the route almost anywhere, but it's better to do so as far to the right as possible, since the ridge is quite low and not very steep.