Boec

a. ° BO­EI²⁻³³⁸⁰ m

Another rope is needed on the snow-ice section, which turns into the cupola of the forepeak — 5270 m. 10 hours from the second overnight stay. From the forepeak, a 10 m descent and then simple rocks, followed by a snowpatch, lead to the ascent to the summit (fig. 1–6). Descent follows the ascent route down to the pass. From the ridge down into the left gorge along the middle axis down to the canyon. Further down to the left onto the ridge's northwest spur. From the ridge, descend along the fine scree and the Ksheshi river and along the right (geographical) side of the river down to the small bridge near the kettle, then along the trail to the base camp. 8–10 hours from the initial overnight stays. Recommendations for climbers.

1. Number of participants — 4 people
2. Time of departure from camp — first half of the day.
3. Places for picketing bivouacs — below the pass, in the couloir, in the depression between the forepeak and the summit, and in places indicated in the description.
4. Equipment — main rope 2×40 m, auxiliary rope 1×40 m, expendable reepschnur — 1×10 m, rock pitons — 20 pcs, non-withdrawable pitons — 7 pcs, rock hammers — 2 pcs, carabiners — 12–15 pcs, ice screws — 4 pairs, tent — 1 pc.

связка: social angle (not avalanche-prone) detour to the angle on the shelf to the right? Further — up the destroyed rocks (50 m, steepness 55–60°), then along the inclined shelf 8 m (cold rock) — exit to the ice couloir. Up the couloir I rope (45°), traverse to the right on the ice (fig. I-2) — to a short edge under the characteristic rock "tooth" (ice cliffs, chopping steps, digging). Second overnight stay. Immediately from the overnight stay, traverse to the right and up 50–60 m along rocks of medium difficulty (pitons). Further, three ropes with belay through ledges with exit to the ridge (“live” stones). The ridge is straightforward — 200 m. From here under the «ём (fig. I–3) along the wall (I rope of difficult climbing), then two ropes of very difficult rocks (14 pitons) and along the rocky couloir exit to the ridge. This is the second key section of the route.

The route starts from a saddle on the north ridge, named Pervovoschoditelnaya ver. “Kristelnый” (scree on the pass contains many marble crystals). The ascent to this 3600 m pass takes about 3 hours from the base camp: go upstream along the Kshonny river, just below the confluence - cross the river over a bridge and ascend into a lateral gorge, leaving a stream canyon on the left (see fig. 1). Below the pass - on a green ledge, on the left slope of the lateral gorge. From the pass, traverse a 200 m snowfield (40° steepness, simultaneous movement). It requires 250 m of slabby rocks and a descent to a rocky saddle to the right of the axis. Hакdaри is bypassed to the right, down via ledges (4–5 ropes, pitons) and then up into a gap between the peak Линим, Хакдари, and the ridge. Here is a cairn. Ascent to a rocky ridge below a marble belt (fig. I–I, additional 2 ropes), rockfall hazard. Up the ridge, then ascent to a destroyed ledge. Protection through rock protrusions. Along an inclined rocky ledge to the right, 1 rope (belay on rock horns). We approach a slot-like wall (1 rope) made of destroyed marble. This is one of the key sections of the route. We exit below