связка: social angle (not avalanche-prone) detour to the angle on the shelf to the right? Further — up the destroyed rocks (50 m, steepness 55–60°), then along the inclined shelf 8 m (cold rock) — exit to the ice couloir. Up the couloir I rope (45°), traverse to the right on the ice (fig. I-2) — to a short edge under the characteristic rock "tooth" (ice cliffs, chopping steps, digging). Second overnight stay.

Immediately from the overnight stay, traverse to the right and up 50–60 m along rocks of medium difficulty (pitons). Further, three ropes with belay through ledges with exit to the ridge (“live” stones). The ridge is straightforward — 200 m. From here under the «ём (fig. I–3) along the wall (I rope of difficult climbing), then two ropes of very difficult rocks (14 pitons) and along the rocky couloir exit to the ridge. This is the second key section of the route.

Along the ridge, approach under the snow-ice slab. Its steepness is 35–45°, length — 4 ropes, belay through ice axes and pitons, movement on crampons (right slope scree).

We approach the rocky ridge:

• Directly along difficult rocks — 30 m of complex climbing with exit to a very sharp rocky ridge in the “window”;
• Then descent traverse to the left along strongly destroyed rocks (difficult climbing) to a good snow-ice shelf in the couloir.

Further up along the left sideXof the couloir**X* — rope, on digging — to characteristic stone along the ridge. Then:

• up to the right (fig. I-4) along the steep front (45°, 1 rope);
• along rocks, flooded with ice (pitons) — approach under the wall, covered with formed ice.

On the wall — very difficult climbing (60°, 2 ropes), then up and to the right along individual stones protruding from the ice (fig. I–5). This is the third key section.