Djangi (N) 5A to N. col. 665 15. Solorosinov + U. 1500, 65°, 63 cm. from the plateau ker 2.5. East Djangi-TAU

JANGI (E), Eastern Counterfort - 5B cat.

The route to East Jangi-tau via the Eastern Counterfort is combined: its lower part is a rocky counterfort, the upper part is a snow-ice slope. The total length of the route is over 1600 m, the length of the rocky counterfort is 1000-1100 m. The average steepness of the rocky counterfort is 65-70°, with overhanging sections encountered on the route. The maximum steepness of the ice slope in the upper part of the route is 45-50°.

6. Description of the route by sections.

The initial bivouac is on a snow plateau under the base of the Eastern counterfort. The exit to the base of the counterfort is 120 m along a snowy slope at 40°. 40 m up the moderately difficult rocks to the base of the chimney (sect. a). The right wall of the chimney is a huge detached rock, the upper part is covered by an overhanging rock. The wall above the chimney is a continuation of its left side. The exit to the overhanging rock is 40 m either directly up the chimney (difficult climbing) or bypassing it on the right. Then there is a 15 m wall with two vertical slots. Ascent via the right slot, then in the upper part of the wall to the left slot and exit to the top of the wall. 40 m up the internal angle with an exit to the right onto inclined slabs (sect. b). Up the slabs to the base of a wide slot 5 m and up the slot to under a small cornice. Through the cornice, exit onto an inclined ledge and along it 40 m to the left to the junction of two walls (the ridge of the junction sect. b is visible in the photo).

Route to the summit of Джанги via NE ridge, cat. 4B (D. Kokkin, 1888)

The initial bivouac is at the Джанги-кош hut or closer to the route — on the snowy plateau (Шхара glacier) of the northern cirque of Зап. Шхара under the base of the rocky spur of the NE ridge of Джанги-тау. Scheme of the 4B route via NE ridge. Photo from the Джанги-кош hut (A. Yurkin).

Approach to the route

1st option:

• Move along the Безенгийский glacier and further along the ridge of the right-bank moraine of its Eastern branch to the overnight stays located opposite the Southern cirque of п. Семеновского (5–5.5 hours from the alpine camp).
• Here, descend to the glacier and cross it, exiting under the icefall that flows to the left of the rocky base of the NE ridge of Вост. Джанги-тау.
• Ascend to the plateau of the northern cirque of Зап. Шхара via the icefall at a safe distance (with ice falls at the top) from the walls of the NE ridge, taking 3–4 hours from the moraine. 2nd option. Move along the right-bank moraine of the Eastern branch of the Безенгийский glacier to the "Austrian overnight stays" (5–6 hours), then:
• Descend to the glacier;

128. Dzhangi­tau Za­pad­naya via South Ridge (combined route, O. Kha­za­rad­ze, 5B cat. dif., fig. 20, 22). From the “Morena Khal­de” base camp, cross the Khal­de Glacier and approach the right side of the broad triangular base of the South Ridge of Dzhangi­tau Za­pad­naya peak. To the left of the hanging glacier’s debris flows, 60 m to the right of the waterfall, via a rangklyuft, ascend 40–60 m up challenging and above-average-difficulty walls, slabs, and corners to a steep snowy slab — a ledge. Traverse 100–150 m left along the slab — ledge. After crossing the waterfall stream, approach a corner — couloir. Ascend 350–400 m up steep rocks of average and above-average difficulty with short challenging walls and ice-snow sections on the left side of the corner — couloir (loose rocks, “live” rocks) to the ledge of the Left Ridge of the triangle. Set up a bivouac on the ledge. 10–14 hrs from the base camp. From the ledge, ascend 150–200 m up a steep ice-snow couloir of above-average difficulty or the rocks on its right or left side (loose rocks, “live” rocks) to a ledge. Then, ascend 250–300 m up a steep ice-snow ridge — slope, rocks of average difficulty (“live” rocks), slabs, and an oblique snowy ledge to a ledge. Set up a bivouac. 10–12 hrs from the previous bivouac. From the ledge, ascend 400–500 m up the sharp snowy-rocky South Ridge of average difficulty, overcoming gendarmes head-on, bypassing a tower on the right, to a saddle. Set up a bivouac on the snowy slope behind the saddle. 8–10 hrs from the previous bivouac. From the bivouac, ascend 50–60 m up rocks of average difficulty, then traverse 200–250 m up the destroyed and snowy-rocky South Ridge (cornices) to reach the summit of Dzhangi­tau Za­pad­naya. 10–12 hrs from the previous bivouac.

127. Jangitao West via South Face (combined route, Yu. Reformatsky, cat. 5B, fig. 20, 22).

From the "Morena Khalde" base camp, cross the Khalde glacier and approach the narrow snow-ice couloir descending from beneath the main summit of Jangitao. After passing the bergschrund, ascend 150–200 m up the couloir (stones, rockfall, avalanches). Then, ascend 150 m up the snow-covered, moderately difficult rocks of the Lower Rocky Outcrop ("live" stones) to a ledge. Variant by Ya. Fleyberg and E. Kulgap group. Without entering the couloir, exit onto the rocks on the right side of the South Face's base and ascend moderately difficult and more difficult rocks upwards to the right, bypassing the couloir, to a ledge. From the ledge, ascend 200–250 m up walls, slabs, and "ram's foreheads" of more than moderate difficulty, bypassing the Yellow Tower on the right, to a ledge beneath a wall. From the ledge, ascend 100–120 m up a difficult wall ("live" stones) to the summit of the Lower Middle Rocky Outcrop. From the outcrop, descend 80–100 m down a snow-ice slope to the base of the Right Rocky Outcrop. Ascend 200–220 m up moderately difficult rocks in the center of the outcrop ("live" stones) to its summit, and then ascend a 30–40-meter steep snow-ice slope to beneath the Upper Rocky Outcrop. Ascend 150–200 m up more than moderately difficult, partly difficult rocks in the center of the outcrop to a snowy ridge on the outcrop's summit. Bivouac. 12–15 hours from the base camp. From the bivouac, ascend 300–350 m up a snow-ice slope, then 80–100 m up a narrow snow-ice couloir between the walls of the Black Tower on the right and the "Tooth" on the left to a col. Then:

• Ascend 100–120 m up moderately difficult rocks and a snow-ice slope to a col behind the Black Tower. From there:
• Ascend 200–250 m up a steep snow-ice ridge-slope with rock outcrops;
• then, ascend 120–150 m up an icy rocky couloir;