Route to the summit of Джанги via NE ridge, cat. 4B (D. Kokkin, 1888)

The initial bivouac is at the Джанги-кош hut or closer to the route — on the snowy plateau (Шхара glacier) of the northern cirque of Зап. Шхара under the base of the rocky spur of the NE ridge of Джанги-тау.

Scheme of the 4B route via NE ridge. Photo from the Джанги-кош hut (A. Yurkin).

Approach to the route

1st option:

• Move along the Безенгийский glacier and further along the ridge of the right-bank moraine of its Eastern branch to the overnight stays located opposite the Southern cirque of п. Семеновского (5–5.5 hours from the alpine camp).
• Here, descend to the glacier and cross it, exiting under the icefall that flows to the left of the rocky base of the NE ridge of Вост. Джанги-тау.
• Ascend to the plateau of the northern cirque of Зап. Шхара via the icefall at a safe distance (with ice falls at the top) from the walls of the NE ridge, taking 3–4 hours from the moraine.

2nd option. Move along the right-bank moraine of the Eastern branch of the Безенгийский glacier to the "Austrian overnight stays" (5–6 hours), then:

• Descend to the glacier;
• Cross it, exiting to the plateau under the North Ridge of Гл. Шхара.

From here, turn right and move at a safe distance from the slopes of the Безенгийская стена under the rocky spur of the NE ridge of Вост. Джанги-тау. It takes 3–4 hours from the "Austrian overnight stays".

Route description

Ascend the eastern spur via a snowy couloir and simple rocks of its northern slope, then move right via simple destroyed rocks alternating with small snowfields, its wide ridge for 400 m to a snowy saddle in the NE ridge of Вост. Джанги-тау.

From the saddle, ascend 150–180 m via rocks and a snowy ridge under the main rocky ascent. The overall direction of movement is upwards and slightly left, with a final exit to the ridge. Medium-difficulty rock walls are overcome "head-on". The last 50-meter section of the rocky ascent leads to the lower point of the snowy shoulder of the NE ridge.

To the left and below the ridge are platforms (thunderstorm hazard!).

The ascent from the initial bivouac takes 10–12 hours.

Further, a gentle snowy ridge with cornices to the right follows. The ridge abuts a black rocky gendarme. Passage:

• Up a 4-meter wall to the left onto a shelf;
• Then 30 m upwards via rocks on the left side — ascent to the gendarme.

From the gendarme to the summit:

• 150 m of a gentle snowy ridge;
• 50 m of a snowy ascent to the summit dome.

Passing the ridge section requires 4–5 hours.

Descent is via the ascent route to the initial bivouac, taking 7–9 hours.

Recommended ascent plan:

• 1st day — approach to the route, safety assessment;
• 2nd day — ascent to the NE ridge and passage of the rocky ascent;
• 3rd day — ascent to the summit and descent to the initial bivouac;
• 4th day — return to the camp.