1984. CLASS OF TECHNICAL ASCENTS

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF CHEGEM (4461 m) ALONG THE NE EDGE OF THE N-E RIB, APPROXIMATELY 5B CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY, BY THE TEAM OF INSTRUCTORS FROM THE "ULLUTAU" ALPINE CAMP. A. Kurochkin, V. Ivashkin, A. Lukonenko, V. Poliansky, A. Sayapin, V. Smirnov July 31 – August 4, 1984. Team Leader: Kurochkin A.G. Team Coach: Porokhnya Yu.I. 361602, KBAASSR, Verkhny Baksan settlement, "Ullutau" alpine camp 360017, Nalchik, Kirova st., 12, apt. 50 Porokhnya Yu.I. 364046, Grozny, Verkhoyanskaya st., 4A, apt. 99 Kurochkin A.G.

Moscow City Climbing Championship

In the High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

On ascending to the summit of Chegem (4351 m) via the route on the northeast wall of the northeast ridge (V. Forostyana) 6A category of complexity by the KAIS MEI team For the period from August 5, 2020, to August 7, 2020 Climbing and Mountaineering Club of Moscow Power Engineering Institute

I. Climbing Passport

	1. General Information

Russian Mountaineering Championship 2020 Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascents.

Report

on the ascent to Chegem peak 4351 m via the NE wall, NE ridge (Forostyan's route), 6A category of complexity by the team from Samara region and Moscow for the period from August 12 to 13, 2020.

1. Ascent Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Team Leader	Varlamov N.O. — 1st sports category
1.2	Team Members	Erokhov I.Yu. — CMS, Yablokov E.A. — 1st sports category

Report

on the ascent to Chegem peak via the Forostyan route, 6A category of complexity, by the team from the Demchenko Alpine Club, Moscow Region, August 4–6, 2020

1. Ascent Report

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Danila Sergeyevich Shcheglov, 1st sports rank
1.2	Full name, sports rank of participants	Danila Sergeyevich Shcheglov, 1st sports rank, Sergey Yevgenyevich Osokin, 1st sports rank, Dmitry Yevgenyevich Pivikov, Master of Sports, Artyom Sergeyevich Kryuchkov, 1st sports rank
1.3	Full name of the coach	Elena Valentinovna Kuznetsova, Candidate Master of Sports

Moscow City Championship in mountaineering in high-altitude technical class.

Report on the ascent of the team from the MPEI Rock Climbers and Mountaineers Club to v. Chegem (4351 m) via the NE wall of the NE ridge, 6A category.

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Chegem gorge, Adyrsky ridge. According to KMGV classification – 2.4.1. 2. Chegem peak, 4351 m, via the NE wall of the NE ridge (route by V. Forostyan). 3. Category of difficulty – 6A. 4. Route type — rock climbing. 5. Elevation gain on the route – 1200 m.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — winter.
2. Ascent region — Central Caucasus, Adyrskiy ridge.
3. Chegem (4461) NE wall, NE ridge, 6A cat. diff. Forostyan's route.
4. Height difference of the wall section — 550 m.
5. From the foot of the wall section to the summit — 1050 m.
6. Average steepness of the wall — 85°.
7. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 385 m.
8. Pitons driven | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area: 2.4.1. Caucasus, Chegem gorge
2. Peak name: Chegem (4461 m) via the NE wall of the NE ridge (Forostyan's route)
3. Difficulty category: 6A
4. Route characteristics: rock
5. Route elevation gain: 1160 m Route length: 1700 m Section lengths:
   • cat. V difficulty – 200 m
   • cat. VI difficulty – 260 m

Ascent Report on Mt. Chegem 6A Category of Complexity via Forostyan's Route on the NE Wall and NE Ridge, accomplished by the team of "Vershina" mountain club, Volgograd region. Ascent Passport

1. Region — Central Caucasus, Adyr ridge of the Main Caucasian Range, upper reaches of the western branch of Chegem gorge.
2. Mt. Chegem 4461 m. NE wall, NE ridge, Forostyan's route.
3. 6A category of complexity.
4. Combined route.
5. Height difference — 1290 m. Distance — 1936 m. Length of sections with V category — 308 m. Length of sections with VI category — 201 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area: Central Caucasus, Chegem gorge, table 2.4.1.№p. p154.
2. Name of the peak Chegem — route name N.E. wall N.E. ridge (Forostyan).
3. Route complexity: 6A.
4. Route type: Combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 1161 m
6. Route length: 1616 m
7. Length of sections: V difficulty category – 285 m; VI difficulty category – 226 m
8. Average steepness: main part of the route – 85°; entire route – 60°.
9. Number of anchors on the route: Friends – 81/10

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus; Adyrsky ridge; section according to the classification table 2.4.1. From the Gumači summit to the Kitlod pass (Adyrsu, Lekzyr, Chegem gorges).
2. Name of the summit: Chegem (4461 m), name of the route: via the North-Eastern wall of the North-Eastern ridge (V. Forstyan, 1977).
3. Proposed — 6A cat. diff.
4. Nature of the route: combined.
5. Height difference of the route: 1160 m (by altimeter). Route length: 1880 m. Length of sections:

• V cat. diff. — 148 m.
• VI cat. diff. — 138 m. Average steepness: