MINISTRY OF SPORT, TOURISM AND YOUTH POLICY OF KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY SPORTS FEDERATION OF ALPINISM RUSSIAN CHAMPIONSHIP 2013 Class of High-Altitude Ascents

Report

Of the combined team of Krasnoyarsk Territory on the ascent to Khan-Tengri peak via the south wall of the southwest counterfort (variant of the route by Sviridenko) 6B category of complexity.

Passport of the Ascent

1. Region — Central Tien Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, 7.9.18.
2. Peak — Khan-Tengri 6995 m, via the south wall of the southwest counterfort (variant of the route by Sviridenko).

Ascent Record

1. Region — Central Tien-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, September 7, 1918
2. Peak — Khan-Tengri 6995 m, via SW facet of SW edge (V. Sviridenko)
3. Complexity category — 6B
4. Route type — combined
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 2395 m, elevation gain of the wall section — 1450 m, route length — 3455 m, length of sections with 6th category difficulty — 170 m, 5th category — 700 m,

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge (KMGV section No. – 7.9)
2. Peak Khan-Tengri (6995 m) via SW crest SSW rib (V. Sviridenko, 82)
3. 6B category of difficulty
4. Route type — combined
5. Route elevation gain — 2595 m. Route length — 3720 m. Length of sections with 5 category of difficulty — 460 m, 6 category of difficulty — 380 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 58°, entire route — 49°
6. Pitons left on the route: total – 0, including bolted – 0. Pitons used on the route: stationary bolted – 0, including for artificial climbing – 0. Removable bolted – 0, including for artificial climbing – 0. Total artificial climbing anchors used – 13.
7. Team's total climbing hours – 56, days – 7.

Passport

I. Category — High-altitude 2. Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge 3. Khan-Tengri Peak 103 South-West edge (V. Sviridenko, 82) 4. 6B cat. diff. (2nd ascent) 5. Height difference 2725 m, length 4920 m.

• Length of 6A–6B cat. diff. sections 480 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 62°.

6. Hooks left on the route (not extracted) — none. Previously driven hooks used and not extracted — 3 piton hooks.

Passport

High-altitude class. Central Tian-Shan, South Inylchek glacier, Khan-Tengri peak via the southwestern spur of the south-southwestern ridge. Category 6B difficulty, second ascent. 5. Elevation gain: 2500 m, route length: 3280 m. Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category: 1015 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 60°, of which 6B category difficulty — 120 m. 6. Pitons driven:

Rock	Bolts	Nuts	Ice
77	1	81	93
6	X	9	0
X — reuse of previously driven pitons.

Passport

I. Category of mountaineering ascent. 2. Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge. 3. Peak Khan-Tengri 103 SSW edge (V. Sviridenko, 82). 4. 6B category of difficulty. 5. Height difference 2590 m, length 3820 m. Length of sections 5–6 category of difficulty — 840 m. Length of sections 6 category of difficulty — 380 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 58°. 6. Number of anchors used:

• rock anchors — 116
• protection equipment — 120

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude technical climb category.
2. Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tağ range, South Inylchek glacier.
3. Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) via the southwest wall.
4. Proposed route: 6th category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 2660 m; route length — 3448 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1134 m. Average steepness of main sections 62° (4336–6130), including 95 m of 6th category at 87°.
6. Pitons used: | Rock pitons | Bolts | Nuts | Ice screws | | :--------- | :---- | :---- | :--------- |

163

Moscow City Championship in Alpinism. First Ascent Category

Peak Khan-Tengri – 6995 m – via the center of the North Face FIRST ASCENT

• Team of MGS DSO "Burevestnik" Team Leader: Koroteev V.K.
• Moscow, ul. Dorozhnaya, 16, bldg. 3, apt. 122.
• ph. 381-87-86 (home) Team Coach: Shpolyansky V.N.
• Moscow, Strelbishchensky per., 5, bldg. 3, apt. 52.

Passport

1. Altitude class.
2. Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge.
3. Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m.) via the left buttress of the center of the North face.
4. Proposed 6th category of difficulty first ascent.
5. Height difference 2700 m., length 3570 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty: 1400 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 58°.
6. Number of pitons used: | Rock | Chocks | Ice | | :--: | :----: | :-: |

To the Main Judging Panel of the 2005 Russian Federation Alpine Championship High-Altitude Class

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Khan-Tengri 6995 m via the center of the North face. Route combination: Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88 From August 20 to 30, 2005, the FASKO team consisting of Tukhvatullin I.Kh. and Shabalin P.E.

Ascent Passport

1. Central Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, S.Inylchek glacier, section 7.9
2. Khan-Tengri peak 6995 m, from S.Inylchek glacier via the center of the N face
3. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, combination of Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88 routes.
4. Route type — combined