Адмиралтеец

Peak5,090 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Ascent to Peak Admiralteisky (5090 m) via *"Stolb"* (the Pillar) from the North, grade 6A, route length 750 m, 75 movement hours, team from Almaty branch of Central Sports Club of Army.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: technical
  2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay
  3. Peak Admiralteets (5090 m) via the "Stolb" from the North
  4. Complexity category: 6A
  5. Route characteristics: route length — 750 m; average steepness of the route — 82°
  6. Pitons driven:
    • rock: 120
    • bolt: 14
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Report on the third ascent of the 6A category route via the "pillar" to Admiralteets Peak (5090 m) in the Pamir-Alay.

(Admiralteets), 5090 m via the "pillar", V. Bashkirov, 85. Pamiro-Alai. Laylyak gorge area 5.4.2.2.

Passport

  1. Technical class.
  2. Aksu gorge, Turkestan ridge, Pamiro-Alai.
  3. Peak Admiralteets, 5090 m, via the "pillar", Bashkirov route, 6A cat. diff. Third ascent.
  4. Elevation gain: 1500 m. "Pillar" elevation gain — 740 m. Main part of the "pillar" elevation gain — 560 m. Total route length — 2840 m. "Pillar" length — 920 m. Main part of the "pillar" length — 600 m. Section lengths: 6 cat. diff. — 510 m, 5 cat. diff. — 340 m. Average slope of the route — 74°. Average slope of the main part of the "pillar" — 80°.
  5. Pitons driven: Rock Bolt Chock Ice 152 1+34X 232 3
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Description of the passage of the route 6A category of difficulty along the wall of the Admiralteets peak in the Aksu gorge by a team led by Alexander Shavrovich in August 1990.

PASSPORT

  1. Technical category
  2. Ak-su gorge
  3. Peak Admiralteets, via the pillar, Bashkirov route, 6A, 2nd ascent.
  4. Elevation gain 850 m, length 1230 m, section lengths: 6th cat. diff. — 510 m, 5th cat. diff. — 340 m. Average steepness of the route 88°
  5. Pitons driven: rock — 226/4 bolt — 14/207, 27?
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Description of the passage of a 6A category route to Peak Admiralteets (5090 m) via the "pillar" on the Turkestan Range in Pamir-Alay.

Passport

  1. Climbing category: technical
  2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Suu valley.
  3. Peak, route: peak Admiralteets 5090 m via "Bashkirov's Pillar" route, 6A category.
  4. Elevation gain:
    • "Pillar" elevation gain – 740 m
    • Main part of the "Pillar" elevation gain – 560 m
    • Total route length – 2860 m
    • "Pillar" length – 920 m
    • Main part of the "Pillar" length – 675 m
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Description of the first ascent of a combined route of category 6B difficulty level to "Admiraltets" peak (5090 m) in the Turkestan Range of Pamir-Alay.

PASSPORT

  1. Technical category.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge.
  3. Peak "Admiralteets" (5090) via the "pillar".
  4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent, combined.
  5. Total elevation gain of the route — 1500 m. Elevation gain of the "pillar" — 700 m. Elevation gain of the main part of the "pillar" — 560 m. Total route length — 2840 m. Length of the "pillar" — 920 m. Length of the main part of the "pillar" — 660 m. Average steepness of the "pillar" — 70°. Average steepness of the main part of the "pillar" — 77°. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 640 m.
  6. Number of pitons used: | Ice | Rock | Nuts | Bolts | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :---: |
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Report on the first ascent of the north wall of the Admiralteets peak (5090 m) by a team from Irkutsk, complexity category 5B.

Ascent Report

Irkutsk Team Ascent of Admiralteets peak 5090 m via North Face. August 9, 2012 Approximate difficulty category: 5B

Irkutsk, 2012

Ascent Details

  1. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Laylyak valley. Section number according to the classification table: 5.4.2.
  2. Peak Admiralteets 5090 m (peak coordinates: 39°34′16.68″ N, 70°02′17.18″ E), via North Face
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Description of the first ascent of peak "5090" (Adimireteev) via the North-Eastern spur of the Eastern ridge, category 5B difficulty.

I. Technical class. 2. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Ak-su gorge. 3. Peak "5090" (Adimireteev) via the North-Eastern buttress of the Eastern ridge. 4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent ¹). 5. Elevation gain — 790 m, length — 976 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 361 m, including 65 m of 6 category. Average steepness of the route — 55°. Average steepness of the main section of the route (4500–4990) — 59. 6. Pitons driven ²): rock 89 16 chocks 36 3 ice 34 0

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Ascent of Pik Admiraltets (5090 m) via the North-Eastern Counterfort, category 5B, completed by a group of Odessa mountaineers in 1983.

Ascent Record

  1. Ascent class — technical.
  2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Aksu valley.
  3. Peak, its height, route — Peak Admiralteets, 5090 m, via NE buttress of E ridge.
  4. Difficulty category — 5B (assumed).
  5. Route characteristics — combined (rock and ice). Height difference — 650 m. Length — 870 m. Length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 280 m. 6th difficulty category — 85 m.
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Description of the ascent route to Peak "5090" (Amiralteev) via the northeast counterfort, difficulty category 5B, with a detailed description of tactics and passage of various sections.

Ascent Log

  1. Class — technical
  2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge
  3. Ascent object — Peak "5090" (Admiralteets) via NE wall, V grade
  4. Difficulty category — 5B
  5. Height difference — 790 m, route length — 976 m, including U–UІ — 367 m UІ — 65 m Average steepness of the route — 55°. Average steepness of the main section of the route (4500–4990) — 59°.
  6. Pitons driven:
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Report on the first ascent of Peak 5090 m (Admiralteets) via the North-Eastern spur of the Eastern ridge in the "Alai" alpine camp in 1983

Alpinist camp "Alay" 1983. Class of technical ascents.

Report

on the ascent to the summit 5090 m (peak Admiralteets) via the North-Eastern buttress of the Eastern ridge (first ascent). Team of MGS DSO "Zenit". Moscow city council DSO "Zenit": Moscow A-40, p.o. box 545, phone 214–20–65 Team leader: Makhovetskiy Alexander Borisovich. Address: 105122, Moscow, Nikitinskaya st., house 14, building 1, apt. 69. Phone: 164–21–08 Team coach: Kozlov Yuriy Evgenievich. Address: 125414, Moscow, Petrozavodskaya st., house 24, building 2, apt. 115. Phone: 453–96–14 Heights in the report were determined as follows:

  • Peak heights - according to the map.
  • Heights on the Ak-Su glacier - using an altimeter.
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