Титова
Route Description: правой части С стены В гребня
SSummitMateRoute passport for the North Face of Peak 6113 in the Yazgulyam Range, Pamir Mountains, grade 5B, first ascent in 1985.
Passport
1.
High-altitude technical class
2. Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge, Tanimass-3 lake area
3. Peak "6113" via the right part of the northern wall
4. Proposed — Category 5B difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain — 1200 m, wall section length — 1240 m, length of sections
with Category 5B difficulty — 310 m, average steepness of the main (wall)
part of the route — 64° (5050–6050 m)
6. Pitons driven:
Route Description: правой части С стены В гребня
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of the right part of the north face of peak BIIZ m in 1985 by the team of the Ukrainian SDSO "*Burevestnik*".
53a
USSR Alpine Championship
High-Altitude Technical Climbing Category
Report
on the first ascent of Peak 6113 m via the right part of the north face by the Ukrainian "Burevestnik" Sports Club team
Team leader: I.V. Bozhko
Coach: A.M. Bychek
1985, Ukrainian Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Club
252000, Kiev, Vorovsky St., 30-g, tel. 26-37-16
Route Description: С стене В гребня
SSummitMateDescription of the first ascent of the north wall of the 6113 m peak in the Yazgulem ridge of the Pamir Mountains by a team of climbers led by Alexander Bychok in 1985.
PASSPORT
- High-altitude technical climb
- Pamir, Yazgulyam Range, Tanymas-3 glacier.
- Peak 6113 m, center of the North face.
- Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Height difference 1200 m, length of the wall part of the route 1450 m. Length of sections with 5B category of difficulty - 620 m, 6B category of difficulty - 575 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 68° (4900–6060), including 6B category of difficulty 80° (5420–5970).
- Pitons driven: | rock | nut | bolt | ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: |
Route Description: 3 гребню
SSummitMate### Description of the first ascent of Peak 6113.5 in the Vysokaya Stena range in the Pamir Mountains in 1962, with a detailed account of the route and challenges faced.
Description
First Ascent of Peak 6113.5 m
Geographical Information
Peak 6113.5 m (photo 1) is located in the southeastern part of the Fedchenko Glacier, in the Vysokaya Stena range. Four glaciers originate from its slopes:
- The northern slopes give rise to the Tanymas 3 glacier;
- The western slopes feed the second (unnamed) glacier, which is a right tributary of the Fedchenko Glacier;
- On the southwest, a third (unnamed) glacier flows, which is the last right tributary of the Vitkovsky Glacier;
- To the south flows the fourth glacier, also a right tributary of the Vitkovsky Glacier.
Approaches
The group of first ascensionists approached Peak 6113.5 m on July 27, 1962, from the base camp (altitude 3900 m) located on the shore of a lake at the confluence of the Kaskadny Glacier with the Abdukagor Glacier.