REPORT

On the ascent to the summit of Amanauz Glavny via the Eastern wall (Dvuzubka, the control and test route by Kavunenko, category 5B) carried out by the instructors at "Alibek" alpine camp consisting of:

• Kovalevsky V.A.,
• Andryushchenko A.V.,
• Bashtinsky A.I. from August 2, 1977, to August 4, 1977.

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE TABLE

R0–R1: start of the route. 0.5 rope length along the smoothed wet rocks of the black slab.

• R1–R2: 1.5 rope lengths ascent to a ledge, traverse left along it, and exit to a spalled rock.
• R2–R3: 0.5 rope length complex climbing, slab-like smoothed rocks, artificial technical means (И.Т.О.), exit into an internal corner. R3–R4: 1.5 rope lengths along the internal corner to the "grotto". Rocks are like "ram's foreheads". Rockfall hazard!

1. Class — technical.
2. North Caucasus, Aксаут gorge.
3. Peak Yuzhnye Bratcy via left eastern counterfort.
4. Proposed — Category 2B difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 600 m, length — 880 m. The average steepness of the route is 45°; maximum steepness in areas — up to 70°.
6. Pitons were not left on the route.
7. Climbing hours on the route — II.
8. Overnight stays on the route — none.
9. Leader: Timonin Sergey Nikolayevich, 2nd sports category.

Ascent Passport

Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass. German Komsomol Peak (3600 m) via the center of the Eastern wall. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. Route type: rock climbing. Height difference: 560 m. Route length: 700 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty: 240 m. Average steepness:

• main part of the route from section R0 to section R25 (up to the top of the tower) 72°
• entire route from start to summit 60° Pitons left on the route — 8, including bolted pitons — 0. Pitons used:

Fig. 30

2. Ascent to the main summit of Dzhuguturluchat via the northern slope - category (see Fig. 30)

From Abalakovskaya bivouac to the left-up along the glacier, bypassing ice falls from the left, then to the right-up along the slope between the ice falls and the rocky island.

• At first, the slope is gentle - 200-250 m
• Then the steepness increases to 45°, in some places - up to 50° (belay!)
• In the second half of summer, there is ice on this section; ice screws are necessary for belay (45-50°, belay!) Further to the right - up to the northwest ridge and along it to the summit. From the bivouac

Peak KhFTI-80 via the S ridge. Ovcharenko V.D. Elbrus E ridge # 2.4

Report

On the first ascent of Peak KhFTI-80 via the southern ridge from Assol Pass

Team of climbers from the National Science Center "Kharkov Institute of Physics and Technology"

2009

Passport

1. Elbrus region, Irik-Chat gorge, # 2.4
2. Peak KhFTI-80, height 3760 m; via the southern ridge from Assol Pass; coordinates of the summit: 43°19′16″ ± 10″ N, 42°32′37″ ± 10″ E.
3. Proposed category: 2B, first ascent.
4. The route is rocky.

Fig. 3.

5. Chutaro Zapadnaya — Vostochnaya

(a rock route, A. Naumova, 3B cat. diff., fig. 2, 3). From Chutaro Zapadnaya (point 2) descend via a wide easy 100–120-meter rocky Vostochny ridge. Then, bypassing the I and II gendarmes of the saddle from the right along the ledges and easy crumbling rocks, approach the 10–12-meter wall at the base of the Zapadny ridge of Chutaro Tsentralnaya summit. Up the moderately difficult rocks of the wall (piton) straight up. Then ascend 50–60 m traversing steep moderately difficult rocks on the right side of the Zapadny ridge (protection) of Chutaro Tsentralnaya. Then, via talus, bypass the summit tower from the right, exiting onto its Vostochny ridge. Here, turn left and ascend the easy wide 60–80-meter Vostochny ridge to the summit of Chutaro Tsentralnaya. From Zapadnaya — 1–1.5 hours. From Tsentralnaya, descend via the easy rocky Vostochny ridge. Further down the easy ridge, overcoming all low gendarmes in the zone, exit onto the saddle below the Zapadny ridge of Chutaro Vostochnaya. From the saddle, overcoming a 12–15-meter moderately difficult wall (piton) in the zone, ascend the easy 150–200-meter rocky Zapadny ridge to the foot of the ascent of Chutaro Vostochnaya. Up the steep rocks of the 15-meter ascent («live» rocks, protection) to the summit of Chutaro Vostochnaya. From Tsentralnaya — 1–1.5 hours. A descent variation to the saddle is via the ascent route along the Zapadny ridge. From the saddle, descend left (south) initially along the left, then the right side of a wide rocky couloir (rocks, «live» rocks, protection), then via «ram’s foreheads», easy rocks, talus, and grassy slopes to the base camp.

Descending from the North ridge of peak Brno. After narrowing of the couloir - transition to its right side and up. From the place of couloir bifurcation - ascent via its right branch, then to the right and via easy rocks to the Central counterfort. From the trail - 2–3 hours. Via medium difficulty rocks (in rope teams!) on the left side of the counterfort:

• 200 m upwards,
• then transition to its right side,
• via a snowslope ascent towards the wall of the North ridge. From the couloir - 2–3 hours. Via steep medium difficulty rocks:
• 45–50 m straight up,

Description of the ascent route to peak Kankosheva 3920 m via the Eastern edge (from KOSHTAN pass) – 3A category of difficulty.

From the overnight stay behind the moraine - into the moraine gap, exit to the Ullu-Auz glacier. Cross the glacier in the direction of the KOSHTAN pass. From the glacier - along the talus and snowfields, exit to the plateau below the KOSHTAN pass. From the plateau - along the snowy slope, passing the bergschrund on the right. Reach the KOSHTAN pass (replace the note in the cairn on the pass). From the pass - right and up along the wide snowy ridge. The first gendarme is bypassed on the left along the snow. The second - first a 10-15-meter traverse to the right, then 10 m straight up the plate and 30 m along the rocks of medium difficulty - exit to the gendarme's saddle. From the saddle - a 40-meter traverse along the ledges on the left side of the gendarme with an exit to the shoulder of the South counterfort. Along the steep rocks of medium difficulty 30 m up to the gendarme. Further - 50-70 m along the sharp snowy ridge - exit below the walls of the third gendarme. First, bypass it on the right along the boundary of ice and rocks to a 12-15-meter ledge. From the ledge - 50 m up the plate, then a traverse into a 70-80-meter couloir, which leads to the saddle. From the saddle - up a 15-meter cleft to the gendarme. From it - down to the ridge after 20–25 m. Further - up along the simple rocks of the ridge. The fourth gendarme is ascended straight up (40 m), then - bypassed by a 60-70-meter traverse on the left along the ledges and rocks of medium difficulty through the South counterfort with an exit beyond the gendarme to the saddle below the rocky ascent of peak Kankosheva. From the saddle - straight up 15 m along the difficult rocks of the counterfort. Further - 40 m along a 4-meter cleft - ascent to the Eastern peak of Kankosheva.

ASCENT TO V. KYUNDU̇M-MIZHIRGI VIA THE 3RD RIDGE, CAT. 3B DIFFICULTY Route Description From the "3900" campsite, head towards the Kyundu̇m-Mizhirgi pass. Traverse the icefall at the base of the upper plateau to the left, keeping close to the rocks of the V. Ullu-Auz ridge. Upon reaching the upper plateau, turn right under the snow-ice slope that leads to the shoulder of the 3rd ridge of V. Kyundu̇m-Mizhirgi. Overcome the bergschrund and ascend 200 m up the slope to the ridge shoulder. Pure ice is possible! Crampons, pitons! From the shoulder, traverse the rocky ridge to the right via simple rocks and ascend upwards to the base of the counterfort wall. From here, ascend upwards to the left via a 8–10 m cleft (70–80°) to the base of a couloir with ice and snow. Ascend 50–60 m (45°) up the left side of the couloir to a rocky ridge connector. Traverse 40 m to the left along the ridge via несложным скалам and then descend 3 m into a pass. From the pass, ascend 50 m (35–40°) up a slab (pitons!) to a ledge, then ascend 10 m to the left, from where you can traverse to the right side of the ridge. Move along the right side of the ridge via ledges (80–100 m) to an ice-snow couloir, which leads to a ridge connector (100–120 m) below the summit ascent. Continue by ascending 20 m up a slab, 20–25 m to the left via a cleft, and then upwards to the right to the pre-summit ridge (pitons!). The further route to the summit follows the ridge (200 m). The ascent to the summit from the "3900" campsite takes around 7 hours in good weather.

Route description for Peak 4500 "Kundyum-Mijirgi" via the southeast ridge, category 3B difficulty.

Day I

Ascent to the third step of the "Kundyum-Mijirgi" icefall. (Refer to the route descriptions for Peak 4500 via the western ridge, category 3B difficulty, and via the northern ridge, category 3A difficulty.)

Day II

From the campsite on the third step, ascend to the plateau located above the fourth step of the icefall. The fourth step is bypassed either on the left along the rocks or through a labyrinth of crevasses in the middle part. Traverse the plateau, staying on its left side, towards the saddle between the "Ptitsa" peak and Peak 4500. Ascend to the saddle via a snowy couloir (with rock outcrops in the upper part), staying on the right side. The rocky gendarme (1) in the ridge between "Ptitsa" and Peak 4500 remains on the right. The ascent from the campsite on the third step to the saddle takes 2–4 hours. From the saddle, proceed along the ridge (moderately difficult rocks) for 6 rope lengths to a rectangular gendarme (rock) 4 m high. The rock is a key point on the route. For a team of 4, the following order is recommended for passing the rock. The first climber from the first rope team approaches the inner corner of the rock along a sharp snowy ridge and drives in the first piton for self-belaying and setting up a belay.