CIS Climbing Championship 2009 Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascent

Report

on the ascent of Peak Korzhenevskoi, 7105 m via the Southwest Ridge, Category 5B (V. Markelov's route) by the team of Sumy Regional Federation of Alpine Sports from July 24 to July 28, 2009 Team Captain: Sergey A. Pugachev Team Coaches:

• Fedor P. Mityukhin
• Mikhail V. Zagirnyak

I. Climbing category: technically challenging. 2. Climbing region: Central Pamir. 3. Climbing route: peak (Krasnoarmeysky — conditional name), peak 4770 m via South-West buttress. 3.4 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 800 m, average steepness 40°, length of difficult section 80 m + 100 m. 5. Number of pitons: rock pitons 2, ice pitons 9, no drill pitons. 6. Number of walking hours: 8–9 hours.

Report on the Ascent of

Peak Korzhenevskaya via the Left Bastion of the Southwest Ridge, Category 5B, by the "Black Ice" Team from July 23 to July 28, 2022

I. Route Passport

24a

REPORT

on the first ascent of Surkhu peak via the western wall (approximately 6th category of difficulty), made by the SKA MVO team during the Moscow championship in the technical class

Geographical Characteristics of the Ascent Object

The ascent area is the Darang-Rawang river gorge. The Rawang gorge descends from the Vanch ridge into the Vanch river valley. The gorge is completely unexplored in terms of alpinism, and no ascents have been made there before. The weather conditions are good. On both sides of the Rawang river, where it flows into the Vanch river, there are settlements:

• Garmuchina
• Ravand The approach to the ascent area is good, with a well-maintained road. The Surkhu peak is clearly visible from the Garmuchina settlement.

Tactical Ascent Plan

Ascent Certificate

1. Ascent Class: Technical
2. Ascent Area: Pamir, Vanchsky Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Shaugada 5137 m, via the North Ridge
4. Proposed Difficulty Category: 4B cat. diff.
5. Route Characteristics: height difference 840 m, average slope 45°. Length of sections: R1–480 m; R2–200 m; R3–160 m; R4–120 m; R5–220 m.
6. Pitons hammered: — for belay: rock 22, ice 20, bolted —.

I. Climbing category: technically challenging. 2. Climbing area: Central Pamir. 3. Ascent route indicating peaks and their heights: peak Kamensk Ural'skiy (conventional name), peak 5080 m via the North Counterfort. 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 700–750 m, average steepness 55°, slope length 60 m + 150 m + 120 m. 5. Number of pitons hammered in:

• rock pitons — 37
• ice screws — 9

2 ­couloir ­snow-ice, ­20–30 ­m ­wide, ­30–40° ­steepness

After ­crossing ­the ­couloir, ­we ­again ­emerge ­onto ­the ­left ­counterfort. ­Encountered gendar­mes ­are ­overcome ­head-on. ­The ­counterfort ­leads ­to ­the ­pre-summit ­ridge. The ­ascent ­to ­the ­pre-summit ­ridge ­follows a ­steep ­snowy ­couloir, ­60–65° ­steepness. The ­couloir ­leads ­to ­the ­pre-summit, ­where ­a ­bivouac ­can ­be ­set ­up. ­The ­ascent ­to the ­summit ­is ­via ­a ­gentle ­snowy ­slope. The ­entire ­ascent ­to ­the ­summit ­takes ­8–9 ­hours. Descent:

• Down ­the ­steep ­snow-ice ­slope ­to ­the ­north ­— ­very ­difficult ­and ­requires careful ­protection.

PASSPORT

I. High-altitude technical class 2. Pamir, Zulumart ridge, Baygakshi gorge 3. Peak Slutskoy 5910 via the "pillar" on the wall 4. Proposed 6B first ascent 5. Wall section height difference is 1040 m, length is 1495 m, followed by a ridge 1.5-2 km. Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category is 825 m, the summit ridge is classified as 5B. Average steepness of the lower part is 69° (4680-5210), upper part is 81° (5250-5720), including 6th category section at 90° (5280-5380); 80° (5480-5640). 6. Pitons used: rock 106, wedges 7; boxes 121, 5; chocks 60, 6; drill-in pitons 10, 8; ice screws 13, 3. 7. Team's total climbing hours: 67:30 and 6 days. 8. Overnights: 1, 2, 3, 5 - platforms on the snow-ice slope; 4 - platform built on the wall.

KIRGHIZ SSR SPORTS SOCIETIES AND ORGANIZATIONS COUNCIL. KIRGHIZ SSR ALPINISM FEDERATION. All-Union 1964 best ascent competition (traverse class).

Report

on traversing the peaks: 5737 m — Vera Slutskaya (5910 m) by the Kirghiz Respouzsport team. Pamir. Zulumart ridge. from July 29 to August 4, 1964. Frunze. Vera Slutskaya Peak (5910 m) is located in the Pamir (in the Zulumart ridge). (Orographic diagram fig. 1). A spur extends from Vera Slutskaya Peak to the southeast, where the 5737 m peak is located (in the USSR peak classification, the latter is listed as peak 5800 m "Trud"). Both peaks form a single (in sporting terms) massif. There are two unnamed peaks in the ridge between the "5737 m" and Vera Slutskaya peaks.

• Photo No. 1 — general view of the 5737 m — Vera Slutskaya peaks;
• Photo No. 2 — Vera Slutskaya and fig. No. 2 — schematic profile of the route. The massif is located at the turn of the Baygashke river valley and is clearly visible from the Kara-Jilga river valley at the confluence of the Kok-Sai and Baygashke rivers. The peaks of the Zulum-Art and Komunarov ridges are of the alpine type. They form a fairly large basin of the Volodarsky glacier and its components, from where the Baygashke river originates. Most of the five-thousander peaks in this region remain unconquered, apparently due to the fact that expeditions choose:

I. Technical difficulty category 2. Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge 3. Peak Dzhadlyk via the West counterfort of the Western ridge 4533. 4. Proposed — 4th category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 700 m, length — 1025 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 7° (3870–4350), including 6th category of difficulty — 85° (3870–3900) 90° (3930–3940), 90° (4140–4155), 85° (4170 — traverse 20 m) 6. Pitons hammered in: rock (65+5ˣ)/12 6/4