Peaks:

• Orlenok Eastern (3140.0)
• 3010.0
• 3000.0
• 2900.0 (Severnye zubki) Route "Traverse of Orlenok Eastern peaks (3140.0 – 3010.0 – 3000.0 – 2900.0 (Severnye zubki) from northwest to southeast)" Category — 2B (combined). Leader: V. Babkin. Western Caucasus, Orlenok gully, Karadzhash ridge. Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the alpinist route "Traverse of Orlenok Eastern peaks — 2900, 3000, 3010 (Severnye zubki) from northwest to southeast" 2B category (combined), made on the annual alpinist event "Championship and primacy of NP 'Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pa' 2012" (class "First ascents"). Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic. Mountain country: Western Caucasus. Valley: Orlenok gully. Ridge: Karadzhash mountain massif. Peaks:

Peak 2900–3000–3010 "Severnye Zubki" Route "Traverse of peaks 2900, 3000, 3010 'Severnye Zubki' from southeast to northwest from Orlenok Pass" Cat. difficulty 2B (combined) Leader: V. Babkin Western Caucasus, Kara-Jash ridge Section in KMGV - 2.1 E-mail: ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the mountaineering route "Traverse of peaks 2900, 3000, 3010 'Severnye Zubki' from southeast to northwest from Orlenok Pass" 2B cat. difficulty (combined) at the year-round alpine event Championship and primacy of NP "Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pai'" 2011 (class "First Ascents"). Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic

Description

First ascent to v. Sofia via the western ridge, approximately category 3A. From the base camp, follow the left bank of the Sofia River (orographically) until the confluence with the Ak-Airy River. Then, move left and upwards along the left (orographically) bank of the Ak-Airy River to the first belt of "ram's foreheads" - 1 hour of movement. The belt of "ram's foreheads" is bypassed from the right along a small stream. Then, move left across small meadows overgrown with rhododendron. After the meadows, move along the middle talus to the shoulder, beyond which lies the upper part of the Ak-Airy River valley. Here, there is a green, flat clearing with a stream of clear water nearby. A suitable location for the initial bivouac. From the first belt of "ram's foreheads" - 1 hour. From the initial bivouac, move upwards along the Ak-Airy River across talus to the Ak-Airy glacier. The glacier ends in an icefall, which is bypassed from the right across a rocky outcrop. Then, ascend a snowy slope with a steepness of 35-40° - 150-200 m upwards, exiting onto the glacier. From the initial bivouac to the glacier exit - 1 hour of movement.

Ascent Passport

I. Climbing category: Rock climbing. 2. Climbing area, ridge: Western Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, Awadkhara region. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Mt. Kardyvach Main, 3150 m, via the center of the South face. 4. Estimated difficulty category: 4B (winter). 5. Route characteristics:

Ascent Passport

1. Russia, Caucasus.
2. Rock class.
3. Western Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, section 2.2.
4. Peak Dombay-Ulgen Western (4036 m), through the center of the Triangle of the southern wall.
5. Proposed 6B category difficulty, first ascent.
6. Route characteristics: height difference: 1036 m, length — 1690 m; length of sections 5–6 category difficulty — 605 m; average steepness of the main part of the route (Triangle South wall) — 84°;

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent classification combined
2. Ascent region Eastern Caucasus
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route (Peak Chkalova (Anchobola)), 4111 m, from the south and along the western ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category 1B
5. Route characteristics

Ak-Su North

5217 m

Report

of the Tomsk Region team (TFA) on the ascent to Ak-Su Peak (N) via the N bastion of the wall, "6B", (c) third ascent Participants: Temerev I.M., Kopytov F.A., Terekhin V.A.

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, Ak-Su valley, 5.4.2.5e
2. Ak-Su Peak (N) 5217 via the bastion of the northern wall.
3. Third ascent, proposed 6B category of difficulty.

Report

On the first ascent of the peak 4818 m (Peak Ostroy) via the route 5B cat. diff. by a team from Krasnoyarsk and Perm regions from August 4 to 5, 2021

I. Climbing Report

3. Summit — 3800 m, via the left part of the western wall.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — IIIА, first ascent.
5. Route length — 710 m.
6. Length of sections: Category I — 20 m. Category II — 350 m. Category III — 260 m. Category IV — 80 m. Average steepness of the route — 45°. Average steepness of the wall section — 55°. Height difference — 430 m.
7. Pitons hammered: Hook pitons — 9, chocks — 8
8. Climbing hours — 10

1 American m — t, 2 m — t Solonnikovoy 5A, 3 m — t Yanushevicha 5B, 4 "Mer­esyev", IX — IX, A3