2.4.147 Ascent Report

I. Description of the Traverse of Sakashil-Bashi Massif West — East

The first ascent of the route was made on February 22, 1969, by a group consisting of:

• Skobenko S.A. (leader)
• Vasyukovich L.A.
• Karlov A.I. With the presence of an auxiliary group (observers) of 3 people. Day 1. On February 21, the 2/1 group approached through the Khunaly-Chat gorge (the left, uppermost tributary of Sakashil-Su). The approach path to the old terminal moraine of the Khunaly glacier (Western Sakashil) is the same as for the peaks "Pik XXV-letiya kombinata", A. Baysultanov, and B. Orlov. After reaching the old terminal moraine, one must ascend left-upwards and, having reached the 1st moraine terrace, traverse left into the "pocket" between the right-bank moraine and the rocky slope of the spur separating the Khunaly-Chat and Sakashil gorges. Ascending up the "pocket", we reach the moraine ridge approximately 50 m above the glacier tongue. Two options are then possible:
• Reach the glacier and continue moving along it.

132. Ullukara via North Counterforce and East Ridge (Category IV A route). The path from the "Jantugan" alpine camp to the foot of the North Counterforce of Ullukara summit with the initial bivouac at the terminal moraine of Bashkara glacier is described in route 136. From the glacier, along a steep snowy slope, bypassing the lower rocky outcrop of the North Counterforce from the left side, reach under the rocky wall. Bypass the wall from the right with an exit to a couloir and ascend 80–100 m (belay!) via non-steep, partially snow-covered easy to moderately difficult rocks of the couloir to a ridge platform. 3–4 hours from the glacier. Then, along heavily destroyed ridge rocks or its right side, ascend to a platform below an ice-snow slope. 3–4 hours from the first counterforce

The summit of MALAА Ј­ŽBA is located in the main Caucasian ridge on the Ј­žbinskoye plateau. To the northeast of M. Ј­žba is the summit of Chatyn-Tau, to the southwest — Severnyaya and Yuzhnaya Ј­žba, to the north — Shchurovsky peak. The summit of M. Ј­žba rises above the Ј­žbinskoye plateau by 150 meters. The only ridge descending from the summit goes in the direction of the Chalaat pass; in the three other directions, the slopes of the summit break off with steep walls. The first Soviet ascent was made in 1936 by a group consisting of Sidorenko and Slobodskaya via the right couloir. The ascent to the summit is made from the Ј­žbinskoye plateau. The ascent from the plateau to the summit and descent back to the plateau takes 3–4.5 hours.

From the Baksan valley, through the Donguz-Orun pass, we enter the Nakra valley. Along the trail, which follows the left (orographically) bank of the Nakra River, we reach the confluence of the Kvish and Nakra rivers. We cross a small bridge over the Kvish River and begin ascending along the left (orographically) bank of the Kvish River to the left lateral moraine. There are areas for overnight stays in the upper part of the moraine. The journey from Terskol to these areas takes around 10 hours. From the moraine, staying on the right side (as we move forward), under the slopes of v. Leyrag, we pass onto the plateau under the Kvish pass. The ascent to the Kvish pass can be challenging, depending on the season. In August, there is steep, razored ice. The ascent to the Kvish pass is to the left of the icefall, sticking to the rocks. A rock ascent is possible. The rocks are of medium

ascending to the summit of CHEGET-KARA-BASHI (traverse with ascent along the north-eastern ridge and descent via route category II difficulty) The first ascent of the route was made in the 1974 season by a group of instructors from the "Shkhelda" alpine camp led by V.N. Lukinov. In the 1975 season, the ascent was repeated by a group of instructors from the same camp consisting of:

• 1. Presnov V.A., 2nd category, leader
• 2. Maerkovich V.V., Master of Sports
• 3. Zhukov S.Ya., 1st category
• 4. Kruglov E.M., 1st category
• 5. Stepanov V.N., 1st category
• 6. Silin B.M., 1st category
• 7. Razumov Yu.A., 1st category

339. Shtavler via the West wall of the South ridge (combined route, V. Kozyavkina, cat. 4B, fig. 32, 44). From the village of Nakra, follow the road to the first stream. Here, turn left and ascend through the forest, grassy slopes, and scree of the Southeast ridge of Shtavler peak. Then traverse left across the southern grassy slopes of Shtavler to reach the col of the South ridge. From the col, descend to the Zapadny Shtavler glacier. The initial bivouac is on the moraine of the glacier below the West wall of Shtavler. From the moraine, approach the right side of the West wall of Shtavler peak via the glacier. From the glacier, ascend a steep snowy slope to the right of two rock ridges, then via large scree and easy rocks up and left to the top of the right rock ridge. From the ridge, ascend a snowy slope, then 12–15 m of monolithic, above-average difficulty rocks of the wall to a ledge. From the ledge, ascend up and left 18–20 m via a difficult wall. Then 10–12 m up a difficult corner leads to the next ledge. From the ledge, ascend 80–120 m up smoothed, moderately difficult slabs to a snow patch, and from there to a platform on a snowy rock ridge. From the platform, ascend 30–40 m up the ridge to below overhanging rocks. Below the wall, traverse right and ascend 200–250 m up heavily broken, tiled rocks of moderate difficulty (“live” rocks) to a platform on the ridge below the wall. Bivouac. From the moraine, 6–8 hours. From the platform, ascend 50 m up a difficult wall to inclined slabs. Ascend 30–40 m up the slabs. Continue up easy snowy rocks of the ridge, then 150–200 m up a steep ice-and-snow ridge (avalanches) to below the right side of the overhanging rocks of the West wall. From here, ascend 200–250 m up broken rocks of moderate difficulty (rocks, “live” rocks) with snowy sections to the South ridge of Shtavler (cairn). From the bivouac on the West wall, 5–6 hours.

From the “Spartak” camp, the path goes along the forest trail of the “Pzheldy” gorge, then along the Dengi-Bashi slope and reaches the moraine (left orographically) of the Shkheldy glacier. At the beginning, the path goes along the moraine, over large stones. Having passed about 500 meters on them, we exit to the moraine, passing through several “pockets” formed by the moraine and the Dengi-Bashi slopes, and reach the “Aristov” campsite (the last pocket with good grounds). From the “Aristov” campsite, the path turns to the right along the moraine, which looks like a large railway embankment. On the Ak-Su glacier, we exit to the lateral moraine as high as possible. Here, on a green clearing, is the campsite. The journey takes 5–6 hours. When descending from the moraine, there are small snow patches. The path further lies along the Ak-Su glacier. Depending on the condition of the glacier, the crevices are bypassed on the right, closer to the hanging glacier above the campsite. The path goes through the middle of the glacier. The Ak-Su glacier represents three tiers. We approach a steep snowfield leading to the Sredniy pass, located between the Fizkulturnik dyad (east) and Malaya Shkhelda (west). The path from the Ak-Su cirque to the Sredniy pass goes:

• along a steep firn slope
• along the direction of the rocky ridge descending from Malaya Shkhelda to the Ak-Su cirque.

101. Traverse of the Shkhelda massif from west to east (L. Nadezhdin's route, category 5B difficulty). The path from the Shkhelda alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the summit of Vtoraya Zapadnaya Shkhelda with the initial bivouac at "Aristov's Overnight Stay" and the second bivouac on the scree of Vtoraya Zapadnaya Shkhelda is described in route #86. From the summit of Vtoraya Zapadnaya Shkhelda, descend via scree, then via simple, destroyed rocks of the Eastern ridge, overcoming small gendarmeries on destroyed rocks of medium difficulty directly, reaching a small shoulder. From the shoulder, go right and down a couloir, then traverse left along snow-covered ledges and inclined slabs onto the ridge. From here, follow a simple, snow-covered rocky ridge, then a 4-5-meter vertical chimney and a 12-15-meter wall to descend onto a snow col before the large black 1st Western gendarme of the Builders' Ridge. From the col, ascend via a sharp snow ridge (cornices!) with rock outcrops - climb to the base of the rocky tower of the 1st gendarme of the Builders' Ridge. Bypass the rocky tower by traversing along the ice-snow slope, then along inclined snow-covered slabs on the right. After a short descent along the ridge, continue descending via difficult and medium-difficulty rocks of the wall on the right side of the ridge, leaving a figurative gendarme on the right, and descend onto a snow col under the 2nd gendarme. From the col, ascend via rocks of medium difficulty on the steep, sharp rocky ridge to reach the 2nd gendarme of the Builders' Ridge. The ascent is possible:

• by traversing along a ledge on the right side of the ridge,
• then directly upwards via difficult rocks of a 40-50-meter wall.

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.