From the parking lot at the GMS on the right-bank moraine of Golubina glacier, the path along the glacier to the Shesterykh pass takes 2 hours. From the pass, turn right and approach the base of the ridge ascent leading to p. Studentov. The beginning of the route is on the left, along the inner corner with ledges, which after 40 m leads to a convenient talus ledge (section R0–R1) Further:

• Up to the left 20 m along the chimney
• 20 m to the right along the inclined ledge (section R0–R2)
• Exit to the "window" between two teeth (40 m)
• From the left of the edge, along the ledges, approach the inner corner, turning into a chimney
• In front of the inner corner - a 6-meter wall
• Section 4–6: along the inner corner and chimney 50 m - exit to the vertical wall
• Along the vertical wall and along the inclined ledge, bypassing the summit of the first ascent to the right, exit to the horizontal part of the first ascent (section 5–6).

Pic. 1. General view of the Susamyr massif. From right to left the peaks are:

• 1st Zapadnaya (West)
• 2nd Zapadnaya (West)
• Pik Malysh
• Tsentralnaya (Central)
• Snezhnaya (Snowy)
• Ravnotsvetnaya (Evenly Colored) Taken from the north from the Karak-too glacier.

Report

On the ascent of Peak Box via the center of the eastern wall by the sports section of the "Polytechnic" alpine club on July 31, 2023

I. Climbing Report Details

Pic. 3. Nogar on a mangapra in Eepus. Mapura.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Ascent area — Central Tien-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge 3. Peak — Peak 4062 m, ascent route — via the North ridge 4. Estimated category of difficulty 2A 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 593 m. Length of sections of II–III category of difficulty — 870 m. Average steepness 46° 6. Pitons hammered: for belay: rock — 4, ice — 2, bolted — 0 7. Number of climbing hours — 8

Brief description of the route approach

From Dugoba a/l, follow the trail to the confluence of the Ak-tash and Ulitor rivers, then continue along the Ulitor river trail to the moraine campsite. Then, follow the trail through two moraine ascents to the campsite under the high rocky ridge. From the campsite, ascend the scree gully to the destroyed black rocks and then rightwards along the scree to the rocky slabs. This is the starting point of the route.

MAIN ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS TABLE

Участок R0–R1: Up the snowy slope and further via snowy-icy couloir to a characteristic cave. Участок R1–R2: Exit to the right wall of the couloir and further along the grey slab with a limited number of jugs. At the end of the slab there's a control cairn. Участок R2–R5: Up leftwards along the left edge of the couloir to the base of the rusty wall. Участок R3–R4: Up leftwards along the smooth grey slab. Участок R4–R5: The slab ends with a 10-meter wall with an overhang. Участок R5–R6: Move up rightwards along the black slabs to the base of the rusty overhanging wall with black streaks. Участок 6–7: The wall is climbed on the right. Challenging climbing. Then up along the scree ledge. Участок 7–8: Along the ruined ledge move rightwards towards 3 sharp "gendarmes". Here is the second control point. Участок 8–9: Up leftwards along the grey rocks to approach the base of a "gendarm" of triangular shape. Bypass the "gendarm" on the left along the scree ledge, which breaks off with steep grey rocks. Traverse up rightwards to exit into a snowy-icy couloir. Участок 9–10: Up the couloir to exit onto a scree ledge below the grey triangular wall on the ridge of the counterfort.

Description of the approach to the route

From the base camp located in Guamyщ valley, ascend the grassy slope to the moraine of Glacier №4. Follow the glacier to the glacial lakes, turn left towards the wide couloir narrowing at the top (1 hour).

Brief explanation of the table

Section О–I: Ascend the snow-filled couloir to the saddle. The couloir is traversed with alternating belay, belay through an ice axe. There are sections covered with ice, which can be bypassed via неслож­ным (uncomplicated) rocks with a key belay (I piton). The steepness of the section is 50°. Section I–2: The exit to the saddle is represented by destroyed rocks (40 m) with a five-meter rock wall at the bottom. The belay is piton (2 pitons). Steepness is 60°. Section 2–3: From the saddle, move left along the ridge through destroyed rocks and talus shelves, bypassing gendarmes on the left. The summit is a destroyed rock of red color. Descent to the north via a couloir.

Route description.

From the base camp - exit along the left orographic bank of the Guaaya River to the cirque of Glacier No.3. Ascend the moraine of the glacier to the first couloir on the left leading to the peak 4420 (n. Tashkontsev). At the beginning of the couloir, there is a pronounced cone of fine gray scree, to the right of which a small area of coarse and medium scree adjoins. Ascend the scree and couloir (200 m) to the scree shelves on the left rib. The couloir is rockfall-prone. Along the scree shelves, bypassing the rock walls of the rib, ascend to the internal angle with a small rock wall. In front of the wall, there is a snow-ice slope of about 30°. Ascend the wall and then along the scree slope under the rock wall of the final rib.