Fig. 19 74. Taymaz West via West Ridge (a combined route, 3A category of difficulty, Fig. 19). The path from the "Taymazi" meadow (a group of 4–8 people) to the red cliffs at the head of the Taymazi River is described in route 72. At the red cliffs (rockfall):

• ford the Taymazi River;
• ascend through the boulder field on the right bank to the talus slopes. Climb the talus slopes to the northern ridge — a spur of Tcentral'naya Taymazi Peak. From here, move right and, traversing the moraines beneath the broad tongue of the Zapadny Taymazi Glacier, reach its right-lateral moraine. Ascend along the moraine crest, which gradually turns left, to almost beneath the northeastern rocky slopes of Glavnaya Taymazi Peak. Here, leave the moraine and move left onto the Zapadny Taymazi Glacier, staying on its right side (closed crevasses), and reach the Taymazi Pass that connects the Zapadnaya (left) and Glavnaya Taymazi (right) peaks. From the glacier, overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge and ascend a steep 250–300-meter ice-and-snow slope to the Taymazi Pass. On the narrow rocky ridge's flat areas of the pass is the starting bivouac. From the "Taymazi" meadow — 8–10 hours. On the pass, turn left and:

Leaving the snowy couloir descending from the saddle between the peaks of Passionariya and Moskvich to the right, we move left and upwards in the direction of the snowfield descending from under the wall. On the left, there are two bivouac sites located under the wall on separate rocky pillars. There is no water, but snow and ice are available. After ascending 70–80 m up difficult rocks with piton protection, we reach an internal corner. Along the internal corner with an overhanging rock at 80–90°, we traverse right and upwards for 20 m across a greenish-gray slab to a chimney. The chimney is narrow and steep, 7–8 m (piton, ladders). From the chimney, we exit onto a ledge-platform 40 m, then left and upwards across difficult rocks to a slab (30 m, 70°) with a crack. Initially along the crack, then straight up (piton, wooden wedges). Above the slab, we move left and upwards across rocks of medium difficulty to an internal corner (almost a chimney with a breakage at the bottom, 60 m, 70–80°). From the internal corner, we exit onto a reddish, crumbly ledge 20 m, going left along the talus (traverse left 5–6 m). I control cairn. After the traverse, we ascend the wall 6–7 m (85–90°, bolted pitons) to a sheer internal corner 17–20 m, 80–85°. Above the corner is a small platform with smooth, crack-free slabs. From the platform, across smooth slabs 40 m, 80° left and upwards to a horizontal ledge. Along the ledge, we traverse left and, bypassing an overhanging internal corner, reach a vertical chimney (rocks are wet). Up the chimney 40 m to a smooth wall of gray-green color. It's better to go without backpacks and then organize their retrieval. The rocks are difficult, with few holds and cracks.

From the Torpedo bus station by car along the Ossetian Military Road towards the Mamisson Pass to the Mamikdon River, which flows from the Ronketi Glacier, along the trail that runs along the right bank of the river to the moraine. Cross the river and follow the trail along the ridge of the first moraine, which runs along the left bank of the river — ascent to the overnight stays located in the hollow between the two moraines. Cairn on the moraine. 1.5 hours from the Ossetian Military Road (see Appendix I). From the overnight stays, go right to the ridge of the next moraine and ascend to its end. From here, go right onto the glacier (be careful, crevasses) and cross it in the direction of the Freshfield Pass. The Freshfield Pass is accessed via a couloir, which is wide and snowy at the bottom, with a bergschrund. The ascent to the pass initially goes up the middle of the couloir. In the middle section, the couloir narrows, and the ascent is made along its right side, close to the rocks. In the upper part, the couloir widens again and breaks into several branches. Leaving a large rocky outcrop on the left, ascend via the leftmost narrow scree couloir, which leads to the Freshfield Pass, at the start of the route. 1.5–2 hours from the overnight stays. From the pass, ascend left and upwards along the ridge, via moderately difficult rocks, 20–30 m. Then ascend straight up a narrow rocky couloir for 2–3 ropes. Protection via rock outcrops. The ascent is always on the right side of the eastern ridge. Then follow an inclined ledge and further via a cleft exit left onto the ridge, 1.5–2 ropes, piton belay. Continue along the ridge: initially sharp, then broadening. A large boulder is bypassed on the right. Further along ledges to the right of the ridge, ascend to the summit. 1.5–2 hours from the pass.

158. Songuti Malaya (3800 m) via the East Ridge (combined route by A. Akopyan, category 3A, difficulty level, fig. 33). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms near Turie Lake under the Maly Songuti glacier is described in route 156. From the platforms, ascend via scree, then via the Maly Songuti glacier towards the saddle of the Tsey Ridge between the peaks of Malaya Songuti to the right and Burevestnik-TsEYSKIY to the left. From the glacier, on the left side of the steep ice-snow slope (avalanches possible), to the right of the "ram's foreheads," ascend to the saddle between Malaya Songuti and Burevestnik. On the saddle, turn right and reach the rocks of the East Ridge of Malaya Songuti peak. Ascend 15-20 m via simple rocks along the ridge. Then, traverse via ledges, partly via moderately difficult rocks (belaying required), bypass the "Trezubets" gendarme to the left and reach the snowy saddle under the II gendarme - "Bashnya." From under "Bashnya":

• descend 20-30 m to the left via a wide couloir;
• continue traversing via simple, partly moderately difficult rocks on the left side to bypass "Bashnya" (belaying required);
• reach the saddle of the East Ridge under the East gendarme. From the saddle:
• bypass the East gendarme to the left with a slight descent;

128. Uipata-Hoh via East Face

(Mixed route: category III) From Vorobievskaya bivouac, approach the first couloir of the eastern wall. Advance through the snow to beneath the couloir and turn into its right-hand branch, then exit onto a rocky ridge. The ridge consists of monoliths with ledges, on which there are many loose rocks. There are no particular difficulties traversing the ridge. Protection is possible using pitons and rock features. At the point on the ridge where the first cairn is located, the ridge turns left; however, you should continue right, crossing a steep icy couloir (1 rope with step-cutting) from the couloir onto a broad, sloping ledge that extends to the rocks. Further work on the rocks is of medium difficulty with good protection features and ledges. The landmark is a flat rock hanging overhead to the left; climb directly towards it, traversing one ledge all the way to the left and then straight up. The route is clearly visible due to the surrounding sheer walls.

Ascent Certificate

1. Rock class.
2. Caucasus, Tsey gorge.
3. Hitsan (3600 m), via the left part of the North face.
4. Proposed category 3A, first ascent.
5. Route elevation gain 500 m; route length 800 m. Elevation gain of the wall section 300 m; wall section length 360 m; average steepness of the wall section 60°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock, nuts, bolted 12/0 23/0 0/0
7. Team's travel time 8 hours and days – 1.

141. Peak TsDSA via the Southeast Ridge South Face

(combined route, cat. 4B difficulty) From the Uilpatinsky overnight camps, ascend the glacier, bypassing the Southeast face of Peak TsDSA, to reach the start of the route. Climb a 150–200 m snowy slope to reach the rocks of the southern buttress. The ascent is via moderately difficult rocks, leaving the "Suchi" to the right. After 120–150 m, enter a snow-ice couloir that leads to a 20-meter wall (the first critical section), which is climbed without a backpack. Two pitons are hammered into this wall. After the wall, move 30–50 m left and up across scree slopes under the "Bastion" to find a platform with a cairn, where a note from the first group to take this route in 1963 was found. From the cairn, move right across easy rocks to reach a broad snow-ice couloir. Cross it and exit onto the ridge on the right side. Follow the ridge for 30 m across easy rocks to reach a snow-ice saddle (with a cornices on the saddle). After crossing the saddle, bypass the "Bastion" on the right across heavily broken rocks. Then ascend 100–120 m up snow-covered rocks to reach a saddle between the "Bastion" and the First sentinel. Bypass the sentinel on the left and follow the ridge to the second sentinel (the second critical section). The 50-meter sentinel wall has a steepness of 80–90° with few holds. There is a small platform at the top for belaying (five pitons are hammered in at this section). Continue up the heavily broken ridge with numerous sentinels, which are climbed head-on:

• On the ridge, there is a second control cairn with a note from a 1952 group led by Master of Sports Kolomensky V.
• The "Zub" sentinel is climbed head-on via a crack with a plug - a [moderately difficult] section. Five pitons were hammered in during the ascent and descent of the "Zub" sentinel (descent on a rope while seated).

Report

On the Ascent

FOR THE 1970 USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP BY THE TEAM FROM THE "TSEI" ALPINE CAMP UNDER THE CENTRAL COUNCIL OF THE "TRUD" SPORTS SOCIETY TO THE SUMMIT OF CHANCHAKHI-KHOKH (4420 m) VIA THE NORTH FACE (NORTHEAST FACE OF THE CENTRAL BASTION) (FIRST ASCENT) Team Captain: GRIGORENKO-PRIGODA Yu.I.

Team List

| № | Surname, First Name, Patronymic | Year of Birth | Rank | Place of Work and Position | Party Membership | Nationality | Home Address | a/Best Ascent and Year; b/Best Ascent in the Last 2 Years |

REPORT

on the first ascent to the peak of Pavel Fitin via the Northwest ridge, category 3A difficulty level, by the team of the alpinism club "Cascade", from August 4 to 6, 2020. 2020

1. Ascent Passport

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.