5

Route Description

The route starts from the ascent to the 1st candar on the northern ridge of the peak. Initially, 150 m across the firn and talus of the ice-rock dome located to the right of the rib, leading to the 1st candar. The steepness of the dome in its lower part is 45°. Further, the dome narrows, its steepness increases to 50°, and its rockfall danger also increases. Then, there is a transition to the talus of the rib. The average steepness of the rib is 50°. The length to the gandarm on the ridge is about 500 m. The rib is a step-like rock formation with walls up to 85° steep and 3–6 meters high. In some areas, there is accretion ice. Movement is alternating with piton belay and belay through protrusions. From the start of the route to the 1st gandarm on the ridge — 3 hours. At the first gandarm, there is a control point. Further movement is along the northern ridge. The 1st gandarm is bypassed on the right via ledges, 60 m. Then, there is an ascent up to the rocky ridge, 40 m. Individual rocky protrusions of the ridge are passed head-on. The 2nd gandarm on the ridge is passed head-on. From the 1st gandarm on the ridge to the summit — 2 hours.

Descent from the Summit

Initially, 60 m along the ascent path. Then, left into a snowy couloir with a steepness of 40° to

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — combined. 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Guamysh ridge. 3. Peak Guamysh (p. 5367), Northwest ridge. 4. Presumed difficulty category — 4B, approximately, second ascent. 5. Route characteristics:

• height difference — 1167 m.
• length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 120 m.
• average steepness — 38°

6. Number of pitons (protection elements) used

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude technical.
2. Ascent area — northern spurs of the Pamiro-Alai ridge, upper reaches of the Guamshi River.
3. Peak — 5367 m («Rita»), W spur.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 5367–3900 = 1467 m length of sections with V difficulty category — average steepness.
6. Pitons hammered for belay: rock — 122

Passport

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alay, Guamysh gorge
3. Peak "5200"
4. Cat. difficulty 6
5. Elevation gain 100 m Length of sections with cat. difficulty 5-6 — 930 m. Average steepness 75°.
6. Pitons driven: rock — 108-XIII, ice — 55-X, bolt — 5-U, закладных — 36-II
7. Walking hours — 42
8. Overnights: 1 — in hammocks; 2 — two in hammocks; 3 — four on a platform cut out in a snowy ridge; 4 — platform for 6 people on a snow drift; 5 — platform cut out in a snow-ice slope for 6 people (semi-reclining).

1. Ascent passport. I. Category — technical.
2. Pamir-Alay, Gumush gorge.
3. Karaganda South (4850) via the North face of the East ridge.
4. Category 5B, combined
5. Height difference 850 m.
6. Length of sections: ice — 300, rock — 390, snow — 450. Category 5–6 sections — 630 m, average steepness — 75°.
7. Number of pitons: rock 56/5, ice 68, bolt 4/4, nut 38/2.

Description of the route.

From the base camp, along the left, orographic, side of the Gumysh river, approach the glacier 22. Along the moraine of the glacier, approach the couloir in the right part of the northwest wall. The couloir descends from the ridge between the peak 4280 and an unnamed summit. The couloir is very narrow and prone to rockfall. The route begins with a chimney with a large plug. Climbing is moderate. The length of the chimney is 10 m. After the chimney:

• to the left along the talus shelves, approach the gray wall with a vertical slit. The rocks are monolithic. Passage of the wall:
• through the slit
• or from the left Good holds. Climbing is moderate. Then:

Участок R0–R1: Up the snowy slope and further via snowy-icy couloir to a characteristic cave. Участок R1–R2: Exit to the right wall of the couloir and further along the grey slab with a limited number of jugs. At the end of the slab there's a control cairn. Участок R2–R5: Up leftwards along the left edge of the couloir to the base of the rusty wall. Участок R3–R4: Up leftwards along the smooth grey slab. Участок R4–R5: The slab ends with a 10-meter wall with an overhang. Участок R5–R6: Move up rightwards along the black slabs to the base of the rusty overhanging wall with black streaks. Участок 6–7: The wall is climbed on the right. Challenging climbing. Then up along the scree ledge. Участок 7–8: Along the ruined ledge move rightwards towards 3 sharp "gendarmes". Here is the second control point. Участок 8–9: Up leftwards along the grey rocks to approach the base of a "gendarm" of triangular shape. Bypass the "gendarm" on the left along the scree ledge, which breaks off with steep grey rocks. Traverse up rightwards to exit into a snowy-icy couloir. Участок 9–10: Up the couloir to exit onto a scree ledge below the grey triangular wall on the ridge of the counterfort.

I. Climbing category — combined 2. Climbing region — Pamir-Alay, Guamysh ridge 3. Peak — p. Tashkentsev (4420) via the northern ridge. 4. Presumed difficulty category — 2B oriented (first ascent) 5. Route characteristics:

• elevation gain — 500 m
• length of 5th category difficulty sections — none
• average steepness — 35°

6. Pitons hammered (utilized protection elements)

• for belay — 5

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.