Photo of 4 Corner Peaks of the traverse:

• 6th along Korablestroitelstvo
• Chekist
• Solntsevo
• AktiU

Ascent Description for Peak Mukana Tulebaeva

The ascent starts with reaching the ridge of the 3850 peak towards the big gendarme. You should rope up under the gendarme. The gendarme is climbed directly via a snowy couloir. We ascend to its top via easy rocks with alternating belay. Further, there is a gentle ridge. The path is obstructed by a series of gendarmes composed of easy and moderate rocks. They are taken directly. You should proceed with caution, as the rocks are heavily deteriorated. Then, via a rather steep talus ridge, we reach the 3850 peak. (The peak was tentatively named Peak Auezov.) Further, descending via a short gentle ridge, we begin the ascent along the ridge of Peak Mukana Tulebaeva. The ridge is gentle, but the rocks are heavily deteriorated. Two gendarmes on the route are bypassed via a rather steep snowy slope on the left. The exit to the summit is via a gentle talus slope. The summit is heavily deteriorated and not clearly defined. The height is 3980 m. Descent is via the ascent route to the saddle between the 3850 peak and Peak Mukana Tulebaeva, and then via a couloir to the south. The couloir has medium and fine talus. The entire route takes about 8 hours. The group requests it to be rated as Category 1B difficulty.

Peak Mukana Tulebaeva

Peak Mukana Tulebaeva.

7.2.172 Oktyabrenok

Center of the NE wall (Samara variant), 4B

K. Belotserkovsky, 2013 Description of the ascent, and why the variant is called "Samara" "North-Eastern wall of Oktyabrenok, Samara variant". A more direct variant of the previous route.

• A long 4B with a good level of climbing.
• On the fifth rope, large camalots (#4–5) may come in handy, or you will just have to endure a bit (I endured).
• The sixth rope, as described, can become famous due to its start.
• Difficult climbing on a slightly overhanging wall.
• Further, exit to a shelf via corners, where the routes converge.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent region: North Tien-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe gorge
3. Peak, route: Pik Pioner (4031 m), from Pioner pass.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 1B
5. Height difference: 170 m total route length: 300 m, wall section length: — of which 5 pitches — 0.6 pitches — 0, average steepness of wall section — 40°, average steepness of route — 40°
6. Pitons driven (numbers in denominator — for IT): no data for rock, ice, cams, bolted
7. Number of walking hours/days:
8. Overnight stays: —

The approach is via Mynzhilki cape past the Black rock. Climb up the gully between the moraine and talus slope to the left, towards peak O. Voiny. Continue along the moraine ridges to the south along the trail to the first rocky spur on the left (peak Kholodnye Per'ya). Here, on the rocks, yellow-painted crosses are drawn, giving the name to the overnight stays. Further:

• Turn east behind the rocks from "Kresty",
• Traverse the talus slopes,
• Walk along the Severo-Zapadny Ordzhonikidze glacier. The final steep ascent before the foot of peak Mayakovsky (talus slope between the ice and rocks) is very prone to rockfall. Behind it, turning left, ascend the talus couloir to the saddle (4.5 hours). From here, climb along the rocky ridge to the west on the right via slabs — to the summit. | 1–30°, 50 m, I | | | | --------------- | --------------- | -------------- | | 2–70°, 5 m, III | 5–60°, 8 м, II | 8–0°, 15 м, I |

N1 and N2 are route points passed by the group

3. Yosemite

Technical photo of the route

Section R3–R4

58. Triangle — Khimik

(combined route by D. Sukhodolsky, category 3B, fig. 5, 6). The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-12 people) to the old right-bank moraine of the Azot glacier is described in route 52. From the moraine, turn right and ascend via scree and easy, broken rocks of the couloir to the saddle of the Western ridge of Triangle peak. From the alpine camp, 2.5-3 hours. On the saddle, turn left and ascend 80-100 m via easy rocks of the Western ridge to below a rock wall. From under the wall, traverse several gendarmes via easy, straightforward rocks and scree on the right side of the Western ridge, and then traverse (with belay) across the ice-snow slope to below a rock tower. Traverse the tower along the boundary between the ice-snow slope and rocks, and then ascend to a col below the summit spire. From the col, ascend via steep, straightforward monolithic rocks of the Western ridge's spire to the summit of Triangle.

• From the right-bank moraine: 3-4 hours
• From Ullutau alpine camp: 6-7 hours From Triangle summit, descend via easy rocks of the Eastern ridge to a saddle. Then, traverse along the ice-snow slope on the left side of the wide, gendarme-studded ridge of the long saddle to below a large gendarme, Rock. Traverse the gendarme to the right (with belay), ascending behind it to the ridge, and then follow the straightforward ridge, passing low gendarmes head-on, to below the Trapezium gendarme. Ascend the Trapezium via steep, moderately difficult rocks (with piton belay) of the ridge. From Trapezium, descend via moderately difficult rocks of the ridge to a saddle, and then traverse along the saddle, passing the Small gendarme head-on (with belay), to below the summit tower of Moskovsky Komsomolets. From here, ascend via steep slabs and moderately difficult rocks of the Western ridge (with piton belay) to the summit of Moskovsky Komsomolets. From Triangle, 4-5 hours.