Ascent Passport

1: Class of ascent — combined 2: Region of ascent — Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge 3. Peak Sportivnaya, height 4000 m, western ridge 4. Presumed category of difficulty — 3B 5. Characteristics of the route:

• height difference — 700 m.
• length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 20 m.
• average steepness — 40°

6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge, Sredniy Talgar gorge. 3. Peak TAGANAI, 3800 m, West wall. 4. Estimated cat. difficulty — 2B 5. Route characteristics:

• Height difference — 430 m.
• Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — none
• Average steepness — 60°.

6. Pitons hammered in:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge, Middle Talgar gorge.
3. Peak TAGANAI, 3800 m, southeast ridge.
4. Presumed complexity category — 2B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 470 m, length of 5th category difficulty sections — none, average steepness — 35°.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock — 5, ice — none, bolt — none, for creating artificial holds — none.
7. Number of climbing hours — 6 hours

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class

• rock

2. Ascent Area

• Trans-Ili Alatau

3. Summit

• B. Khmelnitskogo, 4150 m; Eastern Ridge.

4. Estimated Difficulty Category

• 1B

5. Route Characteristics:

The approach is via Mynzhilki cape past the Black rock. Climb up the gully between the moraine and talus slope to the left, towards peak O. Voiny. Continue along the moraine ridges to the south along the trail to the first rocky spur on the left (peak Kholodnye Per'ya). Here, on the rocks, yellow-painted crosses are drawn, giving the name to the overnight stays. Further:

• Turn east behind the rocks from "Kresty",
• Traverse the talus slopes,
• Walk along the Severo-Zapadny Ordzhonikidze glacier. The final steep ascent before the foot of peak Mayakovsky (talus slope between the ice and rocks) is very prone to rockfall. Behind it, turning left, ascend the talus couloir to the saddle (4.5 hours). From here, climb along the rocky ridge to the west on the right via slabs — to the summit. | 1–30°, 50 m, I | | | | --------------- | --------------- | -------------- | | 2–70°, 5 m, III | 5–60°, 8 м, II | 8–0°, 15 м, I |

Chkalova, 1B cat. diff. from the west

Route description.

From the Chimbulak ski resort, ascend to the Talgar Pass. In the southeast direction, beyond the tongue of the Bogdanovich Glacier, the hanging Til Glacier is visible. Follow the trail between Shkolnik Peak (on the right) and a rocky outcrop (on the left) to reach the glacier, and, crossing it, approach the rocks to the left of the Til Glacier. After traversing about 50 meters across the "ram's foreheads," reach an inclined ledge. Follow the ledge to reach a scree couloir, and ascend it to a snowy plateau. Cross the plateau in an easterly direction and approach a couloir descending between the summit and the ridge. Moving up the couloir (avalanche risk!), reach a narrow couloir branching off to the left. Enter this couloir and ascend, turning right. Continue up moderately difficult rock terrain to reach the summit. Descend via the ascent route.

Recommendations:

1. Number of participants: 8–10 people.
2. Initial bivouac at Talgar Pass.

Ascent Log

Ascent Category	— rock climbing
Ascent Area	— Trans-Ili Alatau
Peak	— Shkolnik, 3850 m North-West ridge, 2A category of difficulty (preliminary)
Route characteristics: elevation gain average steepness	— 350 m — 40°–45°
Pitons hammered in	— two — two chocks
Number of travel hours Number of overnight stays	— eight — none
Full name of the leader	— Pitersov V.V. — 1st sports category; Fedorov V.L. — 1st sports category
Team coach	— Public Rescue Team under KSP

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent region, ridge, gorge — Tian-Shan, Inylchek ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mayda-Adyr, 4090 m, via the right N ridge
4. Route difficulty category — 1B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 1590 m, section length — average slope —
6. Pitons hammered for belay: rock — ice — protection gear —
7. Number of climbing hours — 12 h

Ascent Certificate

1. Ascent category — high-altitude technical climb.
2. Region — central Tian-Shan mountain range.
3. Peak — Nansen Peak, 5697 m, via the North Ridge, combined route.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2850 m, length of R5 section — 700 m, average slope — 55°.
6. Pitons used: rock — 66 pieces, ice — 55 pieces.
7. Total climbing hours — 36.
8. Team leader — Oleg Matveevich Solovei, Candidate Master of Sports; team members: Valery Kuzmich Otchik, Candidate Master of Sports; Vasily Mikhailovich Tereshkovets, 1st sports category; Valery Ivanovich Petko, Candidate Master of Sports.

6. V. Zaromag via North Counterfort and East Ridge, cat. 4B

EAST RIDGE ZIL PASS SADDLE BIG G. I P. II P. III P. IV P. WEST RIDGE VCSPS SHOULDER FRESHFIELD PASS