Description

Ascent to the Western peak of Varzob Saw from the east via route 2A cat. difficulty The Western peak of Varzob Saw (3830 m above sea level) is climbed by mountaineers during the traverse of the entire Varzob Saw via route 4B cat. difficulty. At the same time, climbers ascend to the peak via the western wall and descend to the east, continuing the traverse. Until now, the ascent route to the peak from the east has not been classified, although it corresponds to 2A cat. difficulty and can be recommended for badge holders and athletes. Approaches for the described ascent are made via the same paths as for the traverse of Varzob Saw from W to E via route 3B cat. difficulty, i.e., via the stream and then to the saddle between the Western peak and the main ridge. The exit to the saddle is made in its right part (not directly under the wall of the main ridge) via rough rocks with pronounced ledges, gutters, etc. On the saddle:

• There are areas for setting up two tents.
• Snow is present almost all year round - on the northern side. Movement along the saddle to the Western peak:

3. The summit, its height and the route: Adamtash 4700 m from Big Cirque.
4. Assumed category of difficulty: 2A
5. Characteristics of the route: height difference 400 m, average steepness 40–45° length of sections R1–R200 m, R2–R450 m, R3–R50 m
6. Pitons hammered: for belay — 2 rock pitons
7. Number of walking hours: 6 hours — ascent, 3 hours — descent
8. Number of overnight stays and their quality: a site on the base in the cirque (4300 m)
9. Full name of the leader and participants, sports qualification: Daruga V. K. — 1st sports category, senior instructor, Miglinayte G. A. — participant
10. Team coach: Daruga V. K.

1. Class of ascent — technical
2. Region of ascent — Fan Mountains.
3. Summit Tashkentets 3600 m via the southwest spur of the Western ridge.
4. Route 3A cat. difficulty.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 240 m, average steepness 45°
6. Pitons driven: rock — 14, ice pitons were not used.
7. Number of climbing hours — 7
8. There were no overnight stays on the route.

Назепо — bivouac — 3 vak becomes Nazepo — bivouac — 3 vak

24 21а

V. Blagoeva S.saddle V.M. Mokhova Altai 1.

Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Altai, Katunsky ridge.
3. Assumed 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Height difference 150 m, length 1200 m.

Tancuk crycenos (3500) — 25 km. 23 sp. + soo, 800, 450, 5 sm, 3 ch. K. Actanemko, e. hypodes, B. Hamoenke, r. pycau 43–86:

165

I. Climbing category — first ascent. 2. Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Sofiyskiy glacier area. 3. Trinirovочная Peak — traverse to Barnul Peak. 4. Proposed category 2A, first ascent. 5. Trinirovочная Peak elevation 3500 m, Barnul Peak 3700 m. Elevation difference 600 m, length 1800 m. 6. Pitons were not used. 7. Total climbing time 8 hours. 8. Overnight stays: not necessary. 9. Team of two: Mokhova Valentina Mikhailovna 1st sports category, Eremin Andrey Anatolyevich 3rd sports category.

Report on the First Ascent to the Peak Maly Zub via the Taijesu Pass Route, Category 1B, by the Kemerovo Region Alpine Federation Team on March 2, 2020

I. Ascent Passport

Passport

1. Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 8.3.50 Polar Urals, Raiiz mountain massif, Nyrdvomen-Shor stream valley
2. Name of the summit: 1134 (Raiiz Northern) height: 1134 m, route: via the southwest slope.
3. Category of difficulty: proposed 1B cat. diff., PP.
4. Nature of the route — winter.
5. Height difference of the route: 728 m
6. Length of the route: 2500 m
7. Length of sections with the highest cat. diff.:

Mshatka-Kaya — 9

Along the left edge of the Central Bastion (“Triangulyatsiya”), 4B (35 m, V)

From the upper highway 50 m east of the alpinist camps under Forosky Kant, ascend up and to the right, first along the trail, and then across simple rocks to the left edge of the Central Bastion (R0: 350 m, 30–45, no category). The sections of the route R1–R5 pass along a wide internal corner situated between the second buttress and the Central Bastion. Initially, ascend along the right side of the internal corner, and then Across steep slabs in its middle part (R1–R3: 70 m, 70°, III+). On the R3–R4 section: