Report

ON ASCENT TO PIK Vil'sa VIA NORTH-WEST EDGE, 5A CAT. DIFF. TEAM OF MGS DSO "ZENIT" LEADER V. Tyninkin Moscow 1972

Brief Characteristics of the Ascent Area

Tsey region is one of the main alpine centers in the Caucasus. It is distinguished by an exceptional variety and beauty of gorges. The height of the peaks in the region is over 4000 m. The highest point of the region, Mt. Uilpata, has a height of 4648 m. The height of Pik Vil'sa is 4100 m. Most routes are combined, significant glaciation of the region (Tsey and Skavish glaciers) determines the presence of complex snow and ice sections on the routes. The weather is comparatively unstable. This to a certain extent complicates ascents.

62. West Karaugom via the North Edge

(combined route, 5A category) Path from the village of Dzinaga to the initial bivouac near the Gular Glacier under the Northwest wall of Karaugom. From the bivouac, approach the left side of the North edge of West Karaugom peak via the Gular Glacier. From the glacier, ascend 80 m via "ram foreheads," then 200–250 m via ledges, easy and moderately difficult rocks. Next, ascend 40–50 m via snowy, slab-like steep rocks and a narrow snowy ledge on the left side of the North edge to approach the ice couloir descending from the right of the edge. Ascend 170–200 m up the ice-snow couloir with rock islands, bypassing a rock wall in its middle on the left. From the couloir, ascend via difficult rocks of an 80-meter wall to reach the North edge. 5–7 hours from the initial bivouac. Ascend 200 m straight up the sharp monolithic North edge with three steep rises. Then, make a 12–15 m rappel to a col. Traverse via heavily broken rocks of the col to reach the rocks on the left side of the North edge, then ascend via slab-like rocks of a difficult 90-meter wall (30–40 m to the right of the chimney) to reach the North edge. Continue via simple, gently sloping, heavily broken rocky North edge with ice-snow sections and ledges to ascend beyond a small gendarme onto a ledge. Bivouac on the site. 12–14 hours from the initial bivouac.

Karaugom East – West 4A

Map Notations

• West
• East
• Bol. Zh.
• Zap. Zh.
• I Zh.
• II Zh.
• III Zh.
• IV Zh.

Mamisontskyi via North Buttress, 5A cat. dif.

17

MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION OF RUSSIA RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION Classified 5А+ Protocol № 229 dated November 20, 1964 80

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Eastern part of the Central Caucasus, Bolshaya Tseyskaya horseshoe
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mt. Mamisong, 4360 m, via the right part of the North face
4. Presumed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 995 m length — 1468 m average steepness of the route — 50° average steepness of the wall section — 73°

V. PASSIONARIA VIA NW RIDGE BASTION, 5B cat. diff.

Fig. 23 96. Skatikom (4450 m) via North-East Wall (combined route by G. Bukharov, 5A cat. diff., Fig. 23). From the base camp on the right bank of the Songuti River, near the tongue of the same-name glacier (group of 4–6 people), ascend to the glacier, cross it to the right and exit to the right-bank moraine. Follow the moraine to the "ram's foreheads" and bypass three seracs on the right:

• First serac
• Second serac
• Third serac Beyond the third serac, exit the rocks to the left onto the glacier and ascend to the upper snow plateau of the Western branch of the glacier along its right side. Follow the plateau to the foot of the North-East wall of Skatikom peak. The initial bivouac is on the plateau under the wall. 6–8 hours from the base camp. From the plateau, ascend a steep ice-and-snow 60-meter slope with a bergschrund in the middle part to a rock shelf on the left side of the black wall at the base of the North-East wall of Skatikom peak. From the shelf:

SON-GUTI UP THE RIGHT BUTTRESS OF THE EASTERN WALL, 5A R1: 300 m, diff. cat. 2 R2: 60 m, diff. cat. 1 R3: 500 m, diff. cat. 2+ R4: 25 m, diff. cat. 2 R5: 80 m, diff. cat. 4 R6: 200 m, diff. cat. 5 R7: 100 m, diff. cat. 5

Report on the second ascent by the team from the multifaceted mountaineering club "Freeline" in Essentuki

To the summit of Zub Sofruju

via the direttissima of the western wall, 6A category of difficulty Leader: Popov Mikhail Lvovich Coach: Motienko Nikolai Ilyich Essentuki 2020 Addresses: 357600, Stavropol Krai, Essentuki, Oktyabrskaya St., 434, apt. 59 Popov M.L. 89282657130