Report

on the ascent of Oguz-Bashi 2nd Eastern via the Northern wall, 5B category of difficulty, second ascent. Team of Tomsk Regional Sports Committee. Team captain — Sannikov Yu.V. Team coach — Dyachenko N.N. 634050, Tomsk, Herzen St. 8, Regional Sports Committee. 634055, Tomsk, 30 let Pobedy St. 3, apt. 606, Sannikov Yu.V. 634012, Tomsk, Kirova St. 61, apt. 30, Dyachenko N.N.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Teskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge
3. Summit — Pik Chyorny Klyk, 4255 m, ascent route via the Southern ridge
4. Estimated category of difficulty 2A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 525 m; length of sections with 2–3 cat. diff. — 680 m; average steepness 44°.
6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge
3. Summit — Pik Chernyy Klyk, 4255 m, ascent route via North-Eastern ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category 2B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 576 m, length of sections III–IV difficulty category — 830 m, average steepness 50°
6. Pitons driven: rock protection — 14, ice — 0, bolt — 0
7. Number of climbing hours — 9

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: 60 let Velikoy Oktyabr'skoy Sotsialisticheskoy Revolyutsii (5006) via W buttress. 4. Expected difficulty category — 5B 5. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 900 m, average steepness — 75°, length of complex section 5–6 cat. diff. 620 m 6. Pitons hammered: rock 143, ice 25, bolt 0, of which for creating artificial holds — 15 7. Number of climbing hours — 44 8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: 1. Sitting bivouac

REPORT

on the ascent to the peak "60 лет Октябрьской революции" via the north-eastern edge (second ascent) 4Б cat. diff., accomplished by the group of Kyrgyz RS DSO "Spartak" Frunze, 1978.

General view of the route

BRIEF EXPLANATION OF THE TABLE

Approach from the Baitor camp to the route. The route follows a not clearly defined broad counterfort. Passable ice slope 45°, 80 m. Exit into a narrow couloir, which leads to a ledge in front of a monolithic rock wall. We move left along a snow-ice slope with step cutting, piton belay. Further, two ropes of difficult rock directly upwards, rocks are heavily destroyed. Control cairn on the ledge. From the ledge upwards along difficult rocks, three ropes. Further 20 m of easy rocks, exit onto the ridge. At 20:00, we stop for the night on a rock ledge. Control cairn. Departure from the bivouac at 8:00. Along an ice slope with rock outcrops, we exit onto the main ridge. Along easy rocks, we reach a saddle. Further, one rope of snow-ice slope, one rope of rock ascent, and the ridge continues with easy rocks, steepness up to 40°. Along it, we exit onto the summit. Descent towards the Baitor pass, further down the icefall onto the Baitor glacier and down to the camp.

Appendix 2

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - technical 2. Ascent area - Central Tien Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge. 3. Peak - p. 60-letiya Velikoy Oktyabrskoy Sotsialisticheskoy Revolyutsii, height 4906 m, ascent route - via the eastern counterfort. 4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 900 m average steepness - 75° length of sections with 5-6 cat. diff. - 532 m. 6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Ascent area — Central Tien-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge 3. Peak — Peak 4062 m, ascent route — via the North ridge 4. Estimated category of difficulty 2A 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 593 m. Length of sections of II–III category of difficulty — 870 m. Average steepness 46° 6. Pitons hammered: for belay: rock — 4, ice — 2, bolted — 0 7. Number of climbing hours — 8

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Climbing region — Central Tian-Shan Ala-Too, Dekety-Boguya gorge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. 406 m, via N-E ridge 4. Proposed category — 2B category difficulty 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m, average steepness — 30°, section lengths: snow — 100 m, ice — — , rocks — 460 m 6. Pitons hammered: rock — none, ice — none

Ascent Route to the Summit

(Mt. Akstinas, 4250 m, Category 2B difficulty) The summit of Mt. Akstinas is located in the Tian Shan mountain range, on a spur of the Terskey-Alatau ridge, which runs from west to north and from the west side closes the Karakol valley. The summit of Mt. Akstinas together with the summit of Litovskikh Alpinistov (total ridge length — 2 km) closes a rocky amphitheater filled with eternal snow and ice. The path from the base camp, which is located at the confluence of the two rivers On-Tor and Kol-Tor, goes along a trail on the left bank of the Ot-Tor River to the tongue of the On-Tor glacier. Here are the "lower" campsite, the journey takes 4 hours. The "upper" campsite is located on the southern green slope of the Litovskikh Alpinistov summit. The path to the "upper" campsite:

• along the right lateral moraine to the On-Tor glacier;
• then, bypassing the Litovskikh Alpinistov summit from the left, we cross over to the glacier located on the right. The journey to the "upper" campsite takes 2-3 hours. The path then leads to the summit of Mt. Akstinas. We ascend a steep moraine to the Bezymyannyy glacier, and along it to the saddle between the Bezymyannaya and Mt. Akstinas summits. The journey takes 3-4 hours.

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.