Trapeziya Peak – 3800 m

Ascent to the Main summit via the wall of the Eastern ridge — category 4A.

Description of the ascent route to the summit

The path from the camp to the upper Trapeziya glacier plateau can be found in the description of category 2A route. Across the plateau to the foot of the Eastern ridge. At the bottom of the snowy slope, cross the bergschrund and continue ascending on snow (55°), 70–80 m, belay! To the base of a 1.5 m rusty streak running through the entire visible massif of rocks left-up-right. Up the rocks (many loose stones!) in the direction of the streak (belay! Pitons!). Along the streak up 140–150 m (pitons!) to an inclined ledge running in the same direction. Along the ledge, 130–140 m to its end (pitons!) at the level of the couloir throat — a control cairn. To the right of the ledge is a couloir — DO NOT ENTER — (stones, avalanches from the pre-summit depression!). From the end of the ledge left-up 180 m (belay! Pitons!) on rocks to a black overhanging wall under the ridge. The wall is a system of snow-ice couloirs separated by steep rocky ridges. Ascent up the rocks “Belay! Very tense climbing! Pitons!”. Behind the wall is an exit to the ridge slabs and along them to a black wet wall on the ridge “control cairn”. Bypass this wall (40 m) to the right along the boundary of rocks and a steep (more than 45°) snow patch and again exit to the snowy ridge (pitons!). Along the steep snowy ridge (80 m, belay!) ascent to the summit. From the base of the Eastern ridge to the summit is 14–16 hours. There are no bivouac sites on the entire route to the summit. Descent from the summit via category 2B route to the bivouac takes 2.5–3 hours. The number of participants in the group is not more than 4 people. Initial bivouac — lake under Trapeziya glacier.

Equipment for a group of 4 people:

• rope — 2 × 40 m;
• expendable cordelette — 10 m;

Ascent Passport.

1. Region — West Caucasus, Uzunkol valley.
2. Peak Trapezia (Main/3743 m/) via East wall
3. Route category — 5B, first ascent
4. Route description: height difference — 450 m average slope 60°, length of sections 5B–6B –350 m
5. Pitons hammered on ascent: rock — 80 (10 left in place)
6. Number of climbing hours — 14 + 4 processing 1978, July 12 — approach to the route I3; July 14 — route processing — I20;

M93. Chat-Bashi Western peak via the northern spur

(rock route, category 3A, first ascent by P. Zakharov, 1960) From Chat bivouac, head left towards the talus slopes of Chat-Bashi peak. From here, traverse diagonally up and to the right at an angle of 35-40° to reach the western ridge of the peak. If you ascend too high along the ridge, the descent into the cirque of Chat pass will be challenging, involving rappelling down steep walls and rock fractures. After descending to the cirque via simple slopes, ascend to the pass via snowy and talus slopes. From the pass, descend to its eastern side and approach the base of the northern spur via a snowy slope - it's the right-hand spur relative to the large couloir that runs from the summit ridge down to the pass. Then, ascend leftwards via ledges and short walls to reach the shoulder of the spur. From the shoulder, follow the ridge, tackling an 80-meter wall (R2, bypass on the left side), a rocky "saw" (R4, ascend directly), and then ascend via rocks to the left of the ridge and a difficult 7-meter wall to reach the main ridge of the spur. Continue along the ridge to a grey inclined slab (R7). Ascend via a crack that leads to a small depression, and from there back onto the ridge. If the slab is icy or covered in snow, ascend to the depression from the base of the right edge of the slab via a section of overhanging rock (tense climbing). Follow the degraded 200-meter rocky ridge to reach the Western peak. The ascent from bivouac takes 7-8 hours. Descend from the peak via talus slopes in the direction of Chat campsite. The descent from the peak to bivouac takes 2 hours.

• initial bivouac - Chat campsite, departure time - no later than 5:00 AM;
• avoid entering the couloir to the left of the route - rockfall and avalanches!
• the route is generally safe from rockfall, except for the lower section before reaching the ridge;

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category: rock 2. Ascent area: tourist center "Uzungol", Western Caucasus 3. Ascent route: peak CHAT-BASHI 3760 m, northern edge 4. Proposed category difficulty: 4B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 860 m, average steepness 50–55° 6. Pitons driven: — for belay: 32 rock pitons — for creating artificial climbing holds (ITCH): none — ice screws: none

Chyornye Bashni Peak — 3550 m

Traverse in both directions — category 3A From the Uzunkol alpine camp, follow the left bank of the Kichkinekol River to the stream flowing from the Sr. Kichkinekol glacier. To the left of the stream, ascend to a large lateral step — "ice overnight stays". From here, ascend via a grassy couloir and then along a steep grey moraine to the Sr. Kichkinekol glacier plateau. Cross the plateau to approach the slopes of the Kichkinekol pass. Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund (belay!), cross via a bridge closer to the slopes of Filtr Peak, and then continue up the snowy slope (150 m up to 45°, belay!) to a short scree slope and ascend to the pass. From the pass, descend south and cross the Zamok glacier plateau to approach the 1st terrace of the Chungur glacier from the left. With a slight gain in height, traverse to the middle part of the Chyornye Bashni glacier. Cross the glacier towards the buttress of the eastern peak. Ascend to the right of the icefall via a somewhat indistinct ridge (avoid the lower part of the buttress — rockfall!) and reach the plateau. From the Kichkinekol pass to the plateau — 2–2.5 hours. The ascent to the eastern peak (rope teams!) begins from the plateau via the southeast ridge. Ascend via snow to a snowy saddle in the ridge and then upwards via slabs — belay! Rockfall! Reach the peak via a snowy slope to the right CORNICES!! From the plateau to the peak — 1–1.5 hours. Descend from the eastern peak to the right via a snowy ridge to inclined slabs and a sheer wall. Here, set up a 25 m sport descent via the wall with a chimney. Belay! After descending to an inclined snowy ledge and along it to the right towards the ridge. Descend via a steep ridge — belay! — to the col between the eastern and western peaks. From the eastern peak to the col — 3–3.5 hours.