связка: social angle (not avalanche-prone) detour to the angle on the shelf to the right? Further — up the destroyed rocks (50 m, steepness 55–60°), then along the inclined shelf 8 m (cold rock) — exit to the ice couloir. Up the couloir I rope (45°), traverse to the right on the ice (fig. I-2) — to a short edge under the characteristic rock "tooth" (ice cliffs, chopping steps, digging). Second overnight stay. Immediately from the overnight stay, traverse to the right and up 50–60 m along rocks of medium difficulty (pitons). Further, three ropes with belay through ledges with exit to the ridge (“live” stones). The ridge is straightforward — 200 m. From here under the «ём (fig. I–3) along the wall (I rope of difficult climbing), then two ropes of very difficult rocks (14 pitons) and along the rocky couloir exit to the ridge. This is the second key section of the route.

A large snowy ascent. Further, I, 5–2 ropes along a 60–70° snowy slope with an exit left onto rocks. There is a bivouac site here. You can set up I–II tents, after roughly processing the thawing ice that creeps onto the rocks. From the bivouac on the Northeast buttress — 9–12 hours. Along the 30–35° snowy ridge — two ropes until exiting onto heavily destroyed simple rocks, leading through 30–40 m onto the ridge, which is a continuation of the Southeast buttress of the summit. Further movement along the ridge involves overcoming a small "ryzhyi mandar" head-on or bypassing it on the left with an exit in 40 m under a 30-meter wall. The wall is overcome via an internal corner with frozen rocks (rock pitons). The exit onto the wall on the right is less convenient due to cornices on the rocks. After overcoming the wall, a sharp rocky ridge exits under a large rectangular "mandari" rock. The "mandari" is bypassed on the right (I rope) with piton protection. Further movement (4.45 ropes) along the ridge with good monolithic rocks and cornices on the right until the pre-summit. The pre-summit plateau is convenient for an overnight stay. From the pre-summit to the summit, there are 100 m practically without any ascent (be cautious, with cornices on the right). The exit onto the summit, which is a large cornice, is along the visible line of rocks on the left in the direction of travel. The summit tour is arranged between two large monolithic rocks in the western part of the summit. Ascent time:

• From the bivouac site on the rocks under the southeast buttress — 5–7 hours.
• Descent from the summit via the ascent route — 12–14 hours.

Тща­тель­ной причёс­кой отра­бот­кой и на коп­ках. От места под­ход­ки на пере­вале 2 ч 30 мин. The ice ridge turns into a rocky ridge. Here, difficult climbing on rocks (40°), covered with thick flow ice. Insurance through pitons. There are loose rocks. After 40 m exit to the right to a site protected from rockfall from above. Further movement upwards:

• first along stratified rocks,
• then on ice,
• then along 25-meter rocks (60°), which is a continuation of the ridge. At the exit from the rocks, there is a convenient site for organizing insurance, above -

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan ridge, Laylyak gorge, 5.4.2.6.
2. Name of the summit: AkSu (N) 5217 m, name of the route:
3. Proposed – 6th cat. diff., first ascent.
4. Nature of the route: Combined
5. Height difference of the route: 1467 m Route length: 1940 m Length of sections with R0 cat. diff. – 400 m, R1 cat. diff. – 1155 m Average steepness of the main part of the route – 73 °

Passport

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Lyaylyak gorge
3. Peak Ak-Su (North) 5217 m
4. Difficulty category 6A
5. Elevation gain 1510 m, length 2080 m, including 1550 m of bastion
6. Average slope 68°. Average slope of steep section 72°.
7. Pitons driven: | Rock | Nut | Ice | Bolt removable | Friend |

RUSSIAN ALPINISM FEDERATION RUSSIAN CHAMPIONSHIP 2004, WINTER ASCENTS CLASS

Report

The combined team of the Krasnoyarsk Krai Sports Committee ascended Peak Ak-Su (C) 5217 m via the "mirrors" of the central part of the north face. The route is considered to be a first ascent with an estimated difficulty of 6B.

Ascent Details

1. Region — Pamir-Alay, Laylyak region, №5.4.2.
2. Peak — Ak-Su (C) 5217 m. Ascent via the "mirrors" of the central part of the north face.
3. Proposed difficulty — 6B, first ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Route characteristics:

WORLD ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP

TECHNICAL CLASS

REPORT

On the ascent of the team A/K "Odessa" to Pik Bloka

Via the North face, first ascent. Odessa, 2013

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay. Turkestan range. Laylyak valley
2. Pik Bloka, 5239 m via the center of the North face
3. Proposed grade — 6A, first ascent

I. Technical Category

1. Technical category
2. Pamiro-Alay, Ak-su valley
3. Blok Vostochny peak via the North-Eastern wall
4. Proposed - 6B, first ascent.
5. Height difference - 900 m, length - 1010 m. Length of 5-6B sections - 710 m. Length of 6B sections - 426 m. Average route steepness - 76°. Of which 6B (4280-4680 m) - 83°.
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolts | Ice screws | Rock chocks | Ice chocks | Ice pitons |

Ascent Passport

I. Technical category. 2. Pamir-Alai, Ak-Su valley. 3. Peak Dostoevskogo 4974 m via the western ridge. 4. The route is combined, first ascent, category 4B complexity approximately. 5. Height difference: 1080 m Average steepness — 33°. Route length — 2270 m 5. Rock pitons hammered — 27 pcs. ice screws — 4 pcs. Used chocks — 9 pcs.

I. Technical class 2. Pamir-Alay, Ak-su valley 3. Peak Dostoyevsky (4974 m) via the East ridge, combined 4. Proposed category 4B, first ascent 5. Height difference 570 m, length 1320 m. Length of sections category 4 — 280 m, category 5 — 40 m. Average slope of the route 27°, average slope of the couloir 30°, average slope of the ridge 20°, slope of the summit tower wall 60° 6. Pitons driven: rock 40, chockstones 30 7. Climbing hours — 19, days — 2 8. Overnight stay: 1st on a site prepared on a snowy ridge 9. Leader: Viktor Pruss, 1st sports category. Participants: Serafim Vasiliev, 1st sports category. Valentin Litskevich, 1st sports category. Izolda Shaginyan, Master of Sports of the USSR 10. Coach: Yuri Kozlov, Master of Sports of the USSR