A large snowy ascent. Further, I, 5–2 ropes along a 60–70° snowy slope with an exit left onto rocks. There is a bivouac site here. You can set up I–II tents, after roughly processing the thawing ice that creeps onto the rocks. From the bivouac on the Northeast buttress — 9–12 hours.

Along the 30–35° snowy ridge — two ropes until exiting onto heavily destroyed simple rocks, leading through 30–40 m onto the ridge, which is a continuation of the Southeast buttress of the summit.

Further movement along the ridge involves overcoming a small "ryzhyi mandar" head-on or bypassing it on the left with an exit in 40 m under a 30-meter wall.

The wall is overcome via an internal corner with frozen rocks (rock pitons). The exit onto the wall on the right is less convenient due to cornices on the rocks.

After overcoming the wall, a sharp rocky ridge exits under a large rectangular "mandari" rock. The "mandari" is bypassed on the right (I rope) with piton protection.

Further movement (4.45 ropes) along the ridge with good monolithic rocks and cornices on the right until the pre-summit. The pre-summit plateau is convenient for an overnight stay.

From the pre-summit to the summit, there are 100 m practically without any ascent (be cautious, with cornices on the right). The exit onto the summit, which is a large cornice, is along the visible line of rocks on the left in the direction of travel. The summit tour is arranged between two large monolithic rocks in the western part of the summit.

Ascent time:

  • From the bivouac site on the rocks under the southeast buttress — 5–7 hours.
  • Descent from the summit via the ascent route — 12–14 hours.

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