89. Traverse of Kukryniksy Severaya - Yuzhnaya The route is rocky, Category 1B complexity (Fig. 5, 87, 93, 94). Length - 2600 m, elevation gain - 630 m, time - 6-7 hours. The path from the Kirgizat alplager (group size not limited) to the Kukryniksy Severaya summit - see route 87. From the Severaya summit:

• descend 50-80 meters down the partly snow-covered talus on the right side of the South ridge to the col;
• then traverse 450-500 m along the talus with some easy broken rock on the right side of the long ridge to reach the Kukryniksy Glavnaya summit (30-40 minutes from Severaya). From the Glavnaya summit:
• descend down the partly snow-covered talus on the right side of the 100-120-meter South ridge to the col;
• traverse along the easy broken rock and talus of the 700-800-meter col to approach the North ridge of Kukryniksy Yuzhnaya;
• from the col, ascend the simple, possibly snow-covered, 150-200-meter rock of the North ridge to reach the Kukryniksy Yuzhnaya summit (1-1.5 hours from Glavnaya). Descend along the talus slope via Kievyanka pass.

Rocky island east of the initial central one

3720

INTERNATIONAL ALPINISM AND TOURIST CENTER "VERTIKAL-ALAUDIN" www.fanyvertical.ru

V. Alaudin, 3B, via North-West wall (route by O. Solovey, 79)

Approach: a) through Alaudin pass, then through the saddle between v. Alaudin and Borcov za Mir to the rocky saddle of the North ridge (Djanat pass). b) from the lakes along the scree slopes of the Eastern wall directly to the saddle of the North ridge. R0–R1: From the saddle slightly down and then to the inclined shelf. Along the shelf (medium difficulty rocks) exit to a large scree shelf. R1–R2: Along the shelf to the right 10 m under a small wall. R2–R3: Ascend the wall, protection at the protrusion. R3–R5: Along the scree shelves 2 ropes of 40 m - traverse to the right. Piton protection is difficult - destroyed rock.

P. Bortsov za Mir, 2B, via the North face (N. Morev's route, 79)

1 – via the East ridge, cat. 2A 2 – via the North face, cat. 2B Approach to the North face route. From the Alaudin pass, go right and down, in the direction of the East ridge of Bortsov za Mir peak; further scree and grassy slopes lead under the North walls of the East ridge. The route starts at the base of the most prominent buttress. The start of the route is a gendarme with a white spot. Big Alaudin lake

Route sections

• R0 – start of the route.
• R1: 150 m, 40°.

L. A. Bodyaev, A. S. Nardomov, D. N. Molodtsov, L. N. Mikakova The route starts from col «4600» (for the path to the col see route 21).­ A simple rocky ridge leads to the ascent to the higher peak called Pik Druzei; route difficulty is 1B.­ Time from the col is 1 hour. The descent from the summit of Pik Druzei is done down steep scree slopes (beware of falling rocks) to the west towards Pik «Meteor».

5120 m

4220 m

• B10: He­he­berg (2x)
• B11: He­he­berg (2x)
• B12: He­he­berg (2x)
• B13: He­he­berg (2x)
• B14: He­he­berg (2x)
• B15: He­he­berg (2x)
• B16: He­he­berg (2x)

Climbing area map Route diagram in UIAA notation, sect. R0–R15:

• R0: 70°, 20 m, 4
• R1: 75°, 40 m, 4
• R2: 70°, 60 m, 4
• R3: 75°, 40 m, 5
• R4: 85°, 10 m, 5, 6
• R5: 70°, 100 m, 4

5090 5120

M 1:50 000