Russian Championship in mountaineering in the ice and snow class Report on the ascent of the St. Petersburg team to Peak Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m. Via the North Face couloir, 5B cat. sl. Barber's route on February 20, 2015.

Ascent Details

1. Mountain system: Tian Shan Region: Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range Valley: Ak-Sai Peak name: Svobodnoy Korei, 4740 m
2. Route name: via the North Face couloir
3. Category of difficulty: 5B cat. sl.
4. Route type: ice and snow

Ascent Passport

1. Class — technical
2. Karakol region, Terskey-Alatau ridge
3. Peak Jigit (5170), center of the large triangle of the north wall
4. Route 6B cat. diff.
5. Height difference — 1350 m Length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — about 1000 m. Average steepness — 76°
6. Pitons driven — 156 pcs. ice screws — 7 pcs., chocks, loops — 32 pcs.
7. Number of climbing hours (first climber) — 32 h

2. Fai­on as­cend­ing, ridge — NW Tian Shan Talas­sky ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Ko­ro­na (Al­pysh-at) 3870, traverse II–III towers
4. Sup­posed dif­fi­culty cat­egory — μ² 35
5. Char­ac­ter­is­tics of the route: height dif­fer­ence, length of sec­tion R1–R5 cat. diff. av­er­age steep­ness in de­grees — dif­fer­ence 1000 m, av. steep­ness 55°
6. Num­ber of pitons for safe­ty for cre­at­ing ar­ti­fi­cial sup­port points: lo­cal — 14 pcs., ice — none (sling — none)
7. Num­ber of trav­el­ing hours — 12 h

ASCENT DOCUMENT.

1. Ascent type: traverse.
2. Ascent area: Southern spurs of the Alaysky ridge, Kок-Су gorge.
3. Traverse of unnamed peaks "D" 4850 m - "P" 4840 m - "T" 4950 m.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference:
   • section lengths:
     • no category - none

PASSPORT

First ascent to the summit of Djalgiz-Konush via the north-eastern wall of the Zub Begichi peak.

1. Class: technical.
2. Region: Alai Ridge, Kok-Su gorge.
3. Peaks: p. Zub Begichi (4100 m) via the center of the north-eastern wall, followed by a traverse to p. Djalgiz-Konush (4470 m).
4. Assumed difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: Total elevation gain – 1500–1700 m. Wall:
   • elevation gain: 610 m

№ 34. Zamin Karor / II / 5A cat. diff. NW buttress. V. Martynov, 1975

§ 1. General characteristics of the route

The present route (except for the upper part) runs along the northwestern buttress of Centralnaya Zamin Karor peak. In its lower part, the buttress is not clearly defined. In the upper part, the route passes along the walls of the summit and pre-summit towers. The route is logical; to the left are smoothed vertical walls, and to the right is a huge rock-snow-ice gully that exits onto the saddle between Centralnaya and Glavnaya Zamin Karor peaks; rock and ice falls occur on both sides of the route (buttress). The terrain on the route is predominantly rocky (about 86%):

• Rocks in some areas are covered with ice until they are exposed to sunlight (12–1 pm).
• The rocky terrain consists mainly of monolithic rough rocks, but there are areas of broken rocks, which requires caution and proper movement tactics due to the risk of rockfall.
• There are many thin, shallow cracks in the rocks, as well as crevices where duralumin or wooden wedges can be used. About 12–14% of the route consists of firn and ice. The total length of the route is approximately 1300–1350 m (about 33 ropes), the average steepness (excluding key sections) is about 60°, the steepness of key sections (350–400 m long) is 70–80°, and the height difference is 1000–1050 m.

Ascent Record

I. Ascent class - technical. 2. Ascent area - Zamin Karor (Yaghnob wall). 3. Peak, its height, ascent route - Zamin Karor II-Western, 4525 m, via N-W wall, qualifying (Lapshik). 4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B. 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain - 1500 m, average steepness - 55–60°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category - 540 m. 6. Pitons driven for belay: rock - 92, ice - 7, bolted - none; for creating artificial holds: rock - 7, ice - 2, bolted - none. 7. Total climbing hours - 14 hours.

Ascent Log

1. Type of ascent — high-altitude and technical.
2. Region of ascent — Pamir-Alay, Gissar Range.
3. Peak — Zamin-Karor 1st West (4303 m) via NW wall, a combination of Yefimov and Kapitanov routes.
4. Difficulty category — proposed 6B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 1300 m
   • total length — 1500 m
   • average steepness of the wall section 82°
   • length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1250 m

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent region — Fan Mountains
3. Ascent route — v. Zindon via the north wall, 4800 m
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference 1000 m average steepness 75°, complex section length 880 m
5. Pitons used: rock 207, including 24 wooden wedges ice 8, no bolt pitons
6. Total climbing hours 95.5
7. Number of nights and their characteristics — seven:

151. Bo­dorku Za­pad­nuyu from the south via the couloir and the Eastern ridge (combined route, category 1B difficulty, fig. 20, 23). On the saddle (point 150) turn left and ascend via an easy gentle, in places sharp (belay required), with short simple walls, heavily destroyed and snow-covered (cornices) 300–400-meter rocky Eastern ridge to the summit of Bo­dorku Za­pad­nuyu. From the Ly­chad­skie plo­schad­ki 3–4 hours.