200 198

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area: Caucasus, Bezengi, Northern spur of MGHR. 2.3.
3. Peak: Ural (Western) (4300 m).
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B. 45, pr. 507, p.4, 26/5–81.
5. Route character: combined. Height difference: 520 m. Average steepness: 63°. Length of sections: 4th cat. diff. — 155 m; 5th cat. diff. — 265 m; (of which 5B and 6 cat. diff. — 80 m)

Fig. 17

MOUNTAINEERING

1. Technical class.
2. Caucasus, Bezengi gorge.
3. Main Shkhara, center of the NE wall.
4. Proposed - 5B cat. sl. first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1145 m, length: 1640 m. Length of sections with 5-6 cat. sl.: 790 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 57°, including 6 cat. sl.: 62° (4360 m–4550 m).
6. Pitons driven: rock 36/2, chocks 49/3, ice screws: 60/6
7. Team's travel hours - 26 and days - 3.

All-Union Council

Alplager "Bezengi"

The ascent is dedicated to the bright memory of Igor Alexandrovich DUDCHENKO

Caucasus

Western Shkhara (5057 m) via the center of the North face

1. BLANKOVSKY A.K., Master of Sports — "Zenit" — team leader
2. LEVIN A.S., Master of Sports — "Trud" — participant
3. KRAINOV I.P., CMS — "Spartak"
4. MELENTYEV V.I., CMS — "Zenit" 1980

Route 1. Nakhalibita — Mayak via Idiа along the Nakhоdibita glacier

D2H5Й, combined, 2B category of difficulty From the "Nakhalibita" ascent - north along the grassy slopes, along a small river flowing from the "Nakhalibita D2H5H" glacier, exit to the terminal moraine of the glacier (photo 32). From here, to the right with a gain in height - ascent to the upper snowfield (avalanche debris to the left, orographically from the lowering of the glacier tongue). From the "Nakhalibita" clearing, about two hours. Wearing crampons, in rope teams, exit to the glacier along a fairly steep ice slope. Crevasses are passed over snow bridges, approximately in the middle part of the glacier. Belay through ice axe and ice screws (1-2 pieces). After 30-40 minutes, having exited to the open, gentle part of the glacier, cross it to the left along the way, under the rocks, along a steep snowy ascent 200-250 m long. The bergschrund is overcome along a snow bridge. Belay through ice axe. Further ascent along the rocks, having a steep icy slope to the right along the way, broken by crevasses. Having crossed a wide transverse crevasse, visible from the "Nakhashbita" clearing, ascent along the rocks of Malaya Nakhashbita along a steep snowy-icy slope, above the diagonal bergschrund, between two separate rocky outcrops to a large triangular rock, clearly visible from the "Nakhashbita" clearing. Here you can make a halt. From the "Nakhashbita" clearing - 5-6 hours of walking. From the rocks, having crossed a small crevasse, traverse the snowy-icy slope to the right along two bergschrunds. Belay through ice screws (1-2 pieces). Bergschrunds are crossed in the middle part along bridges with careful belay. Further along a steep (35-40°) snowy-icy slope - exit to the saddle between Malaya Nakhashbita and Glaznaya. Belay through ice screws (2-3 pieces), movement straight on with front points. From the rest place under the triangular rock - one to two hours of walking.

59. Sugan Maly — Uzlovoy (V. Popov's combined route, cat. 5A, fig. 11). The path from the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu river (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the scree of the wide snow plateau of the Sugan ridge saddle between the peaks Suganbashi on the left and Maly Sugan on the right is described in route 35. From the base camp — 8–10 hours. The path from the "Nakhashbita" glade to the initial bivouac via the Doppakh pass takes:

• 1–2 days (see routes 17, 22, 26, 28). From the bivouac, along the snow plateau, bypassing the Southeast ridge of the Central Sugan peak on the right, approach the snowy slope of the wide couloir descending from the upper part of the Southeast ridge of the massif to the plateau. Overcoming the bergschrund, perform a 200 m ascent, sticking to the rocks, along the steep ice-snow slope (running belay). Then:
• ascend 40 m along the wet slabs (running belay) to the Southeast ridge of Maly Sugan;
• turn right;
• ascend 160 m along the heavily destroyed rocks of the ridge with numerous gendarmes;

Fig. 19 74. Taymaz West via West Ridge (a combined route, 3A category of difficulty, Fig. 19). The path from the "Taymazi" meadow (a group of 4–8 people) to the red cliffs at the head of the Taymazi River is described in route 72. At the red cliffs (rockfall):

• ford the Taymazi River;
• ascend through the boulder field on the right bank to the talus slopes. Climb the talus slopes to the northern ridge — a spur of Tcentral'naya Taymazi Peak. From here, move right and, traversing the moraines beneath the broad tongue of the Zapadny Taymazi Glacier, reach its right-lateral moraine. Ascend along the moraine crest, which gradually turns left, to almost beneath the northeastern rocky slopes of Glavnaya Taymazi Peak. Here, leave the moraine and move left onto the Zapadny Taymazi Glacier, staying on its right side (closed crevasses), and reach the Taymazi Pass that connects the Zapadnaya (left) and Glavnaya Taymazi (right) peaks. From the glacier, overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge and ascend a steep 250–300-meter ice-and-snow slope to the Taymazi Pass. On the narrow rocky ridge's flat areas of the pass is the starting bivouac. From the "Taymazi" meadow — 8–10 hours. On the pass, turn left and:

Ascent Passport

1. Category: ice and snow climb
2. Caucasus, Tsey Gorge
3. Mamisong, 4358 m, via the left icefall of the north face
4. Proposed route — Category 5B difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 780 m, route length 1060 m. Length of Category 5B sections — 380 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 60° (3820 m — 4140 m).
6. Ice screws used: 89
7. Team's climbing hours — 7, days — II.
8. No overnight stays.

27.12.83

Passport

Ascent to Mt. Mamisong-hokh via icefalls of the North Face

1. Ascent category — snow and ice climb.
2. Ascent area — Caucasus, Tsey.
3. Ascent route — “Mamisong-hokh, 4358 m, via icefalls of the North Face.”
4. Route description:
   • route length — 920 m
   • height difference — 858 m
   • average steepness — 55°

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF Soviet VoIN PEAK VIA THE ROUTE OF 3A DIFFICULTY CATEGORY BY THE FRI-LINE TEAM FROM PYATIGORSK ON SEPTEMBER 28, 2023

I. Ascent Passport