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Report on the ascent of the Demchenko CSKA team to Mont Blanc via the "Italian Classic from Gonella Hut" route, category 2B.

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA Demchenko team to Mont Blanc (Monte Bianco), 4808 m, via the "Italian Classic from Gonella Hut" route, 2B cat. diff. (G. Bonin, L. Grasselli, A. Ratti, J. Gradin, A. Proment, 1890) Team leader: A. V. Yurkin Senior coach: E. V. Kuznetsova

Ascent Details

  1. Alps (Italy, Val d'Aosta region), Val Veny, Courmayeur area. № 10.3 (according to KGBM 2011)
  2. Mont Blanc (Mont Blanc (French), Monte Bianco (Italian)) 4808 m from Gonella Hut (G. Bonin, L. Grasselli, A. Ratti, J. Gradin, A. Proment, 1890)
  3. Category: 2B cat. diff.
  4. Route type: combined
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Report on the ascent made by CSKA team to the summit of Aigulle du Tour Sud via the classic Category 1B route from Albert's Hut in the Chamonix area.

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA team named after Demchenko to the summit of Aiguille du Tour South (3544 m) via the classic route from Albert Premier refuge, 1B cat. dif., Savoy Alps, Chamonix area Leader: A. V. Yurkin Senior coach: E. V. Kuznetsova Moscow 2014

Ascent Details

  1. France. Savoy Alps, Chamonix area. Section No. 10.3 (according to KGBM 2013).
  2. Summit Aiguille du Tour (Aiguille du Tour) 3544 m. "Classic" from Albert Premier refuge (C. G. Heathcote, M. Andermatten, 1864).
  3. Proposed category – 1B cat. dif.
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Report on the ascent of the "Old Horse" team to the Eiger summit via the West Flank route, category 3 difficulty, on August 3-4, 2019.

Report on the Ascent of Eiger (3970 m) via the West Flank Route by the "Old Horse" Team on August 3–4, 2019

I. Climbing Report

№№1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderYakovlev Evgeny Reinholdovich, 1st sports rank
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsStetsenko Vladimir Dmitrievich, CMS; Kruchkovа Tatyana Nikolaevna, 3rd sports rank
1.3Full name of the coach
1.4Organization"Old Horse" club
2. Characteristics of the Climb Object
2.1RegionBernese Alps
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Ascent of the "Reticent Wall" route on the southeast face of El Capitan by a team of Russian climbers with a detailed description of tactics and equipment.

Passport

  1. Technical class
  2. North America, Sierra Nevada, Yosemite National Park.
  3. El Capitan summit via Reticent Wall route. Southeastern part of the wall.
  4. Approximate complexity category 6B (American classification VI, 5.9, A5)
  5. Route length of walled part — 1085 m.
  6. Length of sections with 6th category of complexity — 1015 m.
  7. Heights: Height of the beginning of the walled part (above sea level) — 2120 m. Height of the end of the walled part (above sea level) — 2189 m. Height difference of the walled part — 909 m.
  8. Average steepness — 90°.
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Report on the ascent of Kongur (7719) via the counterfort C-3 on the wall, category 6A route in "Alpine" style.

Report

On the Ascent to Kongur Peak (7719)

Via the NW buttress of the NW wall ("Moscow Express") 6A category of difficulty (Third passage of the route)

1. Climbing Passport

  1. Region: Kongur-Muztagh Range (Chinese Pamir). Valley: Karayaylak Section number according to the 2001 classification table — 11.3
  2. Summit name: Kongur. Route name: Via the NW buttress of the NW wall ("Moscow Express")
  3. Category of difficulty — 6A.
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First ascent of Selestal peak (5413 m) in East Tibet via the center of the eastern wall, category 6B.

Ascent Certificate

  1. Eastern Tibet, Changping Gou river gorge, number in the KMGV section;
  2. Celestial peak (5413 m) (Celestial, Pomio) via the center of the eastern wall (dedicated to the 45th anniversary of JSC "Amurenergo");
  3. Proposed category: 6B, first ascent;
  4. Route type — combined;
  5. Route elevation gain — 1412 m; Route length — 1525 m; Length of category V sections — 626 m, category VI — 759 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 75°, entire route — 70°.
  6. Hooks left on the route: total — 32; including pitons — 17; Total used on the route:
    • rock pitons — 155;
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Report on the ascent of "Golazo" route, category 6B, on the east face of Central Tower of Torres del Paine in Patagonia.

Report

Central Tower of Torres del Paine, "Golazo" Route, 6B, 2007

Passport

  1. Technical category
  2. South America, Chile, Patagonia
  3. Summit: Torres del Paine, Central Tower
  4. Route: via center of the eastern wall ("Golazo"), Second ascent
  5. Cat. complexity 6B
  6. Elevations:
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Report on the ascent of the new route "Vostok" (East) Cat. 5B on the East Face and NE Buttress of Nelion (5188 m), Mount Kenya massif.

Report

Route "Vostok" via E face and NE ridge of Nelion (5188 m), Cat. 5B, first ascent Mount Kenya massif Republic of Kenya. Africa Leader: A.V. Yurkin Moscow 2017

Climbing Passport

  1. Africa. Mount Kenya massif. Classification table section number: #11.6. (according to KGBM 2013)
  2. Peak name — Nelion (5188 m), route "Vostok", via E face and NE ridge
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Description of the ascent via the new route "LADOGA" (6B category) on the NNE wall of Sablya mountain (1497 m) at the Subpolar Urals by a team of St. Petersburg climbers.

Ascent Passport

  1. Region: Subpolar Urals, Sablinsky Ridge.
  2. Summit: Sablya (1497 m) Route "LADOGA" via the left part of the NNE wall from Gofman's Glacier.
  3. Assumed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
  4. Route character: rock.
  5. Height difference of the route: 820 m, including the wall part: 570 m. Route length: 915 m, including wall part — 602 m. Length of sections: 5th category of difficulty – 165 m, 6th category of difficulty – 217 m. Average steepness:
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Report on the ascent made by a team to the summit of Telpos-Iz via the North-West slope and North-East ridge, a Category 1B climb.

Report

On the ascent to Telpos-Iz Eastern peak via the North-West slope and North-East ridge, category 1B, by the team from F.k.i.p.GP (Ukhta) from March 25, 2023, to March 25, 2023.

I. Ascent Report

№№1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the team leaderYakimenko Oksana Anatolyevna, MS
1.2Full name, sports rank of the team membersGoloviznin Roman Vladimirovich, z/n; Likhomanov Aleksey Nikolaevich, z/n; Manin Aleksey Dmitrievich, b/r; Osetrov Alexander Alexandrovich, b/r
1.3Full name of the coachBadich Nikolay Evgenievich
1.4OrganizationFederation of Clubs for Research and Travel of the Trade Union Movement of Gazprom Corporation
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
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