Ascent Certificate

1. Eastern Tibet, Changping Gou river gorge, number in the KMGV section;
2. Celestial peak (5413 m) (Celestial, Pomio) via the center of the eastern wall (dedicated to the 45th anniversary of JSC "Amurenergo");
3. Proposed category: 6B, first ascent;
4. Route type — combined;
5. Route elevation gain — 1412 m;

Route length — 1525 m; Length of category V sections — 626 m, category VI — 759 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 75°, entire route — 70°.

6. Hooks left on the route: total — 32; including pitons — 17;

   Total used on the route:

   • rock pitons — 155;
   • chocks etc. — 230;

   Types of hooks used:

   • stationary pitons — 17, incl. ITO — 0;
   • removable pitons — 6, incl. ITO — 6;
   • skyhooks — 91, incl. ITO — 91;
   • rock anchors — 338, incl. ITO — 307.

7. Team's total climbing hours: 158 h 30 min, days — 14;

8. Team leader — Igor Vladimirovich Sherstnev — Master of Sports;

   Team members:

   • Pavel Olegovich Kolesov — Master of Sports;
   • Alexander Gennadievich Shelkovnikov — 1st sports category.

9. Coach — Pavel Olegovich Kolesov, Master of Sports;

10. Departure to the route: 9:00, February 7, 2006;

    Summit: 11:45, February 19, 2006; Return to Base Camp: 22:00, February 20, 2006.

11. Organization — Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing of Amur Region.

The route we completed in 2006.

• KHP

Photo from the western slope of Siguniang Shan (4000 m) on October 7, 2005. www.alpfederation.ru↗

Celestial 5413 m

Route Profile

5071 Siguniang Shan 四姑娘山 5308 Liuercong Gou 缘尔葱沟 5026 Xiao Gou 小沟 5135 Gaoyan Wuo 高岩窝 5672 5700 Galastial Yanggangzi 5413 中 100 m Hes Hes Hes 5672 5700 5630 5320 5328 5386 Dagunlang Feng 5029 5276 Contour interval 100 m 10000 0 1,5–3 km 5320 5328 5328 5320

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The climbing area is located in the Sichuan Province of the People's Republic of China in the eastern part of Tibet (Sino-Tibetan Mountains). Active mountaineering exploration began in the 90s of the last century. To date, the area is very popular among Chinese and foreign climbers. This is due to its relative ease of access and a wide variety of routes:

• clean rock walls;
• long ice cascades;
• couloirs.

The best time for climbing is from October 15 to early February. During these months, the weather is consistently frosty and dry.

To reach the climbing area, one needs to travel by car from Chengdu, the administrative center of Sichuan Province, to the village of Jilun, located 250 km northwest. By hiring horses and guides in the village, one can reach the base camp in one day, ascending along the trail up the Changping Gou river gorge to a large flat meadow at an altitude of 3650 m.

At this altitude, on the left bank of the river, the base camp was set up. The Celestial peak (Tibetan name Pomio) is located on the right bank of the Changping Gou river and has a pyramidal shape with a sharp rocky summit and a wide eastern wall, which is fully visible from the base camp.

To reach the start of the route at an altitude of 4001 m, one needs to ascend the right slope (relative to the stream flowing from the eastern wall) to the inclined grassy shelves and rocky scree under the wall. The ascent goes through the following sections:

• steep rocky shelves in the lower part of the slope, located in the forest zone;
• grassy shelves;
• rocky scree under the wall.

The approach from the base camp to the start of the route without acclimatization takes 4–5 hours.

2012

2011

ROUTE SCHEME

Footnotes

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