Korona 2 tower 3B (V. Akmayov, 2011)

• R0–R1. Snow slope 100 m. 40° II
• R1–R2. Ice slope 100 m. 45° III
• R2–R3. Ice gully 150 m. 50° IV
• R3–R4. Snow slope 500 m. 30° II
• R4–R5. Snow-ice slope 600 m. 45° III

Ascent Log

of the Tyumen Region combined alpine team (Tyumen Regional Alpine Federation) to Peak Korona 5th Tower via the Sadovsky Route, category 5B, as part of the Russian Alpine Championship, correspondence class for high-altitude technical ascents. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai valley. Peak name: Korona 5th Tower, 4860 m Route: V. Sadovsky's Route (1968) - southwest wall, category 5B Route type: combined Route elevation gain: 860 m Route length: 900 m Section lengths:

• category 2: 200 m

REPORT

ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF KORONA, 5-YA VIA THE WESTERN RIDGE, CATEGORY 5B, BY THE KAIS MEI TEAM FROM AUGUST 12, 2021 TO AUGUST 13, 2021 Moscow, 2021

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

Ascent Log

1. Class: technical;
2. Region: Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Ak-Sai gorge
3. Climbing object: Peak Korona, 5th tower, via the center of the southern wall (V. Balezin) 4855 m.
4. Complexity category: 6A
5. Route type: combined Route elevation gain — 770 m. Route length — 810 m. Length of sections:

• 5 — 340 m
• 6 — 120 m. Average slope:

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan Kyrgyz range, Ak-Sai gorge.
2. Peak name: Korona 5th tower 4860 m
3. Route V. Balezin (1996), center of the southwest wall, 6A
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 850 m. Route length: 950 m. Section length:

• V difficulty category 600 m
• VI difficulty category 110 m.

PASSPORT

1. Ice and snow ascent category.
2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range, Aksai spur.
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea via north wall couloirs (Barber's route), 4740 m.
4. Proposed category 5B difficulty, second ascent.
5. Height difference — 680 m, length — 865 m. Length of category 5B difficulty — 520 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 52° (4060–4660 m), including sections of 51° (4120–4420 m), 52° (4420–4580 m), 59° (4580–4660 m).
6. Pitons driven: rock 1 ice 340

Russian Championship in mountaineering in the ice and snow class Report on the ascent of the St. Petersburg team to Peak Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m. Via the North Face couloir, 5B cat. sl. Barber's route on February 20, 2015.

Ascent Details

1. Mountain system: Tian Shan Region: Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range Valley: Ak-Sai Peak name: Svobodnoy Korei, 4740 m
2. Route name: via the North Face couloir
3. Category of difficulty: 5B cat. sl.
4. Route type: ice and snow

1. p. Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, right of the left buttress of the North wall (2nd ascent) cat. diff.
2. team leader: Sergey Dashkevich, Master of Sports
3. Central Tien Shan. Kyrgyzsky ridge. Aksay valley.
4. Section in classification 7.4

Report

on the second ascent of the team of the Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing of the Sverdlovsk Region (FAiS Sverdlovsk Region) to p. Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, right of the left buttress of the North wall. 6A cat. diff.

Addresses:

620092, Ekaterinburg, Novgorodtseva st., 9/3, ap. 17, Sergey Dashkevich, Tel. 89122436251, Dash-sa@mail.ru, Ekaterinburg, 2010

Report on the ascent to p. Svobodnaya Korea

Ministry of Sports of the Krasnoyarsk Krai

KRASNOYARSK KRAI ALPINISM FEDERATION

Russian Alpinism Championship

2016

Class: Snow and Ice

Report

On the first ascent by the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to Peak Svobodnoy Korei, 4777 m, via the right part of the left triangle of the N wall, route "Krasnoyarsky" First ascent, estimated 6A category of difficulty Krasnoyarsk 2016

Ascent Details

но­сти 30–35 м straight up. Да­лее 80 м вверх по кру­тым ска­лам сред­ней труд­но­сти Во­сточ­но­го ре­бра and along a 20-meter vertical difficult chimney to ascend to a slanting shelf. Along the shelf, traverse under the wall to the right to a vertical cleft. Up a difficult 20-meter cleft in the wall (the key point of the route) to ascend to a slanting shelf. From the shelf, along icy rocks 25 m up to a rocky site on the Во­сточ­но­го ре­бра. From the site, 250–300 m up and to the right along a snowy ridge, then along the slope. Then, traverse up and to the right through an icy-snowy couloir and move to the right onto rocky shelves. From the shelves, 1215 m:

• up and to the right along moderately difficult, разру­шен­ным ска­лам,