2. Climbing area, ridge ­— C ­— 8 Tian-Shan Talas Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route ­— Dvoeglazy, 4355 m NW ridge
4. Estimated category of difficulty ­— 2B
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section 1­–5 km, average slope in degrees ­— height difference 1300 m, avg. slope 40°, length of sections: Cat. I complexity ­— 800 m
   Cat. II complexity ­— 300 m
6. Placement of pitons for insurance to create artificial anchor points:

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area, ridge — Western Tian-Shan, Tanassky ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Dzholoy, 4355 m, via the North counterfort of the North-Eastern ridge.
4. Presumed difficulty category — 3B category.
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section I–5, average steepness in degrees. 800 m, 950 m, II–III — 150 m, III — 800 m.
6. Pitons driven for protection to create artificial holds: Rock — 5 Ice — Bolt —

4135

Joloe Peak (East), 4355 m

via the north central ridge, cat. 4A (from camp on Joloe Glacier 3560 m) From the 3560 m bivouac located on the left side of Joloe Glacier, ascend via moraine (snow-covered depending on the season) to the north-central ridge lying to the right of the northern buttress. The ascent to the start of the route is via a snow-ice slope with a slope angle of 35–40° and a length of 120 m, to the left of the lower third of a monolithic rocky triangle. The route follows the left (as seen from below) edge of the triangle; climbing grade 3–4. Belays are alternating, via projections; use protection gear and pitons. The section is 130–140 m long. This is followed by a small snow-covered rocky ledge 3–4 m wide, after which there is

• a 35-meter rocky wall with a slope angle of 75–80°, leading to a rocky "window" and the ridge. Belays are via pitons and protection gear. Climbing is difficult. This is the first crux. The ascent continues along the ridge:
• Belays are alternating until a snow-covered ledge; the ridge is degraded, rocks are grade 2–3.
• Ahead lies a large gendarme, which is ascended head-on via a cleft and then a chimney; the height is 10 m, climbing is difficult, challenging.

2. Nearby ascents, ridge — Western Tian-Shan, Talassky ridge.
3. Summit, its height, ascent route — p. Dvopoy 4355 m, via the north central edge. 35 km
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4° cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference, section length 1–6 km, average steepness in degrees — 600 m, 11–400 m, 11–17 — 190 m, 17 — 130 m, 17–7 — 65 m, 45°–50°.
6. Number of loops hammered in for insurance to create artificial support points.
   • Rock — 12
   • Ice — 5
   • Hook anchors —

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Climbing type: rock
2. Ascent area, ridge: S-3 Tian-Shan, Talassky ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: DJOLOY ZAPADNY (WESTERN) via the northern glacier slope
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference 630 m length of sections 5–6 difficulty category average steepness 50°
6. Pitons hammered: for insurance rock — ice — 42 bolted — for creating and organizing emergency stops rock — ice — bolted —
7. Number of travel hours: 6

3. The summit, its height, route ascent — Manas, 4482 m, southern ridge from a. Asmas
4. Assumed category of difficulty — 1B
5. Characteristics of the route: height difference, length of section I–5 cat. diff. average steepness in degrees — height difference 1182 m, avg. steepness 30°, length of sections: 1 cat. diff. — 300 m, 2 cat. diff. — 50 m
6. Number of hooks for belay to create artificial support points: rock — 2 pcs., ice — none, bolted — none
7. Number of walking hours — 10
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics — none

From bivouac 3300 "Майские ночёвки", located on the Manas glacier moraine, entrance on the right side (in the direction of travel) of the glacier - 2 hours walk under the saddle. Ascent to the saddle on a snowy slope 30-35°, between Bokovoy Manas and Manas Glavny. Here you should rope up. Further movement along the Bokovoe ridge, on large-block talus, steepness 30-35°; movement - 1 hour. From the ridge, descend into a 10 m gap, handrails are necessary, protection via ledges, pitons. Further ascent to the summit on talus, here too handrails are recommended.

TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION Approach to the "Tower" — ONLY via the large Altus couloir! From the "1860" fork — along the northern slopes of Altus into the couloir; from the "Green Hill 2300" — cross over to the left northern ridge of Altus (1 hour to the wide saddle) into the couloir. R0–R1: diagonal ascent 110 m II up to 40° left across the rocks to the ridge, followed by a 15 m descent into the saddle. R1–R2: from the saddle (with belay from the ridge) along the wall 21 m III 60° (2 pitons) and traverse along the ledges left-upward behind the spall 10 m II 45° (1 cam) ("2" — station). R2–R3: to the ledge under the cornice (hanging control cairn), 6 m II 45°, bypass the cornice from the left along the crack and slab 8 m IV avg. 60° (2 pitons) and into a shallow inner corner up to the ridge 10 m III 50° (2 pitons, 2 cams) (pull up the second for belay from "3" — station). R3–R4: to the right of the ridge traverse right-upward 20 m II+ up to 60° (4 pitons, 2 cams) to a sloping ledge under the wall ("4" — station). R4–R5: no bypass to the left! traverse down-right and up along the steep inner corner back to the ridge (up to the end of the 45 m rope) 10 m II 30°, 10 m IV 70° (2 pitons, 1 cam), 20 m II+ up to 50° (outcrops). R5–R6: diagonal traverse of rocky outcrops rightward through the "Shovel" to the right side of the northern ridge and along it (leftward are drop-offs!) to the summit 450 m I–II up to 40°. NOTE:

PHOTO # 9: Morning view of the Altus massif from the North (August 1998) PHOTO # 10: Morning view from the East on the left northern ridge of Altus (May 1998). The described route is shown by a solid line on both photographs. ASCENT DOCUMENT # 4 Class: ROCK CLIMB Region: TIEN-SHAN, Ugam ridge Peak: ALTUS Height: 3200 m (according to KTMGV-89) Route and proposed category of difficulty: via the left northern ridge of Altus 3200, 2B (rock) (A. Yusev, 1998)

ASCENT DOCUMENT ASCENT DOCUMENT

Class: Rock Climbing

Region: TIAN-SHAN, Ugam Range (7.II) Peak: ALTUS Height according to "KMGV-99": 3200 m BARS-I 3800 m First Ascent Routes and proposed difficulty categories: Via Sofia's Shelf to the eastern ridge: 3A combined Via Sofia's Shelf to the western ridge: 3B combined