Клевер
Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateTraversing the Klever — Fregat — Morion peaks, category 3A complexity, heavily serrated ridge, cornices and snow drifts, challenging belay.
v. Klever (2119 m) – v. Fregat (2140 m) – v. Morion (2125 m), 3A cat. dif.
From the base camp, the ascent to v. Klever is done via route 1B cat. dif. along the Northern ridge. The ascent takes 1.5–2 hours. From v. Klever to v. Fregat, there are three pronounced "gendarms". All are passed head-on. The route runs along a highly jagged, sharp ridge and is psychologically very difficult.
Ascent to the 1st "gendarme"
- Descend 60 m from v. Klever into the pass;
- Overcome two walls — 3 m and 5 m;
- Traverse 50 m and ascend to the 1st "gendarme".
Further
- Traverse 60 m along a ridge of similar character;
- Ascend to the 2nd "gendarme";
- Descend from it 15 m, approach the beginning of the most challenging part of the route.
Route Description: С гребню
SSummitMateAscent to the summit via the North Ridge, category 1B difficulty, duration 5-6 hours, with belay elements and use of specialized equipment.
Via the North Ridge, Cat. 1B diff.
From the base camp, follow the right bank of the right tributary of the Ulu river. After 20–25 minutes of walking, start ascending via a snowy couloir left of the rightmost buttress of the summit. Having ascended 80 m, move right onto the buttress and continue along it. The team moves simultaneously in rope teams across несложным засneженным скалам (uncomplicated snowy rocks). Before reaching the North Ridge, leave the buttress to the right and exit onto the snowy slope, bypassing the "gendarme". The ascent to the ridge takes 1.5–2 hours from the start of the climb. Once on the North Ridge, move right in rope teams. After 150 m of simultaneous movement on dense névé, you will come to a small dip in the ridge — a 4 m wall. Continue with alternate protection for 120 m. There are snowy cornices on the right side of the ridge in places. Organize protection using rock projections. Then, proceed 100 m across несложным заснеженным скалам (uncomplicated snowy rocks) to reach the summit. The summit is a small rocky area. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route with rappel lines hung practically along the entire ridge section of the route:
- Descending from the summit along the ridge takes 40–50 minutes.
- Descending from the ridge along the buttress takes 20 minutes. Total ascent time is 5–6 hours.
Route Safety Assessment
The main hazard for climbers are the snowy cornices along the 250 m long snowy ridge. When descending from the ridge via the couloir and potentially cutting into the snowy slope, beware of:
- avalanches.