v. Klever (2119 m) – v. Fregat (2140 m) – v. Morion (2125 m), 3A cat. dif.

From the base camp, the ascent to v. Klever is done via route 1B cat. dif. along the Northern ridge. The ascent takes 1.5–2 hours. From v. Klever to v. Fregat, there are three pronounced "gendarms". All are passed head-on. The route runs along a highly jagged, sharp ridge and is psychologically very difficult.

Ascent to the 1st "gendarme"

• Descend 60 m from v. Klever into the pass;
• Overcome two walls — 3 m and 5 m;
• Traverse 50 m and ascend to the 1st "gendarme".

Further

• Traverse 60 m along a ridge of similar character;
• Ascend to the 2nd "gendarme";
• Descend from it 15 m, approach the beginning of the most challenging part of the route.

Most challenging part (about 200 m)

• Horizontal sharp ridge;
• Ascent to the 3rd "gendarme";
• Descent from it;
• Ascent to the main tower of v. Fregat.

Then

• Traverse 30 m along the summit tower;
• At the far end of the tower is a cairn.

This section from v. Klever takes 2.5–3 hours.

Descent from v. Fregat

• Bypass the large "gendarme" on the left — 50 m;
• Traverse another 150 m along the rocky ridge to the saddle with v. Morion;
• Ascend to v. Morion (250–300 m), which presents no technical difficulty (takes 40–50 minutes from v. Fregat).

Descent from v. Morion

• Traverse along the ridge 150 m to Edelweiss pass;
• Keeping close to the rocks on the right, descend along the snowy couloir until it flattens out in the cirque.

The descent from the pass to the base camp takes 40–50 minutes.

Route safety assessment

The route is ridge-based throughout and is highly jagged. The danger comes from a large number of cornices and snowdrifts along the entire ridge. Particular attention should be paid to:

• self-belaying;
• mutual belaying using natural relief.

Recommendations for subsequent groups on equipment usage and route specifics

For a group of 6 people, it is necessary to have:

• 5–7 rock pitons;
• 6 wired nuts;
• slings;
• hammers;
• crampons and ice axe for each participant.

Distinctive signs of the route start

The start of the route coincides with the route to v. Klever along the Northern ridge 1B cat. dif.