Ulun
Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateDescription of the Category 1B route to the summits of Khabarovsk Alpinistok (2166 m) and Ulun (2221 m) with recommendations on equipment and ascent tactics.
9. Descriptions of Ascent Routes to Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m)
Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m) – Mt. Ulun (2221 m), Category 1B Difficulty
From the base camp, move along the left tributary of the Ulun River, then towards the Edelweiss Pass. After 20–30 minutes of walking, start ascending up and to the right along the Eastern Counterfort of Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m). After 1 hour and 10 minutes of ascent along a relatively simple snow-covered ridge with step-kicking, reach the Northeast Ridge of the summit, then continue along it for 20 minutes to the summit. The ridge is not steep and is snow-covered, but mutual belay is necessary due to the presence of snow cornices. Crampons are mandatory! The summit of Khabarovskikh Alpinistok is a pyramid with steep walls dropping to the Southwest and Southeast. The further path is clearly visible from the summit. The traverse follows the ridge directed from North to South. Characteristics of the ridge:
- rocky, fairly narrow;
- drops steeply on both sides with walls up to 60 m deep;
- partially snow-covered, which somewhat simplifies movement;
- features low "gendarme" formations that can only be overcome head-on.
Route Description: В кф.
SSummitMateDescription of category 1B complexity route via Edelweiss pass along the Eastern ridge with a detailed analysis of the path sections and descent recommendations.
Edelweiss Pass Route
Eastern Ridge Route, Category 1B difficulty
Traverse of Khabarovsk Climbers Peak
Descent from the Routes
Via the Eastern Counterfort, Category 1B difficulty. From the camp to the start of the route takes 20–25 minutes.
| Section | Length | Steepness, ° | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| R0–R1 | 80 m | 25° | Old snow |
| R1–R2 | 100 m | 30° | Steep slope |
Route Description: с пер. Эдельвейс
SSummitMate**Description of the 1B category complexity route via Edelweiss Pass**, with a detailed analysis of the path sections and recommendations for passage.
Through Edelweiss Pass, Category 1B
| Section | Length | Steepness | Difficulty | Description |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| R0–R1 | 250 | 30–40 | 1–2 | Pressing against the left edge, upper part |
| R1–R2 | 300 | 25 | 1 | Snow cornices on the right for the entire length of the section; move along the slope upwards at a distance of 10–15 m from the ridge. Simultaneously. |
| R2–R3 | 8 | 45 | 2 | Bypass the cornice. Alternating belay. |
| R3–R4 | 450 | 1 | Simultaneous movement along the ridge, belay over the ridge. Three distinct pinnacles. The first is bypassed on the right. The second — on the left. | |
| R4–R5 | 10 | 48 | 2 | The third pinnacle of the ridge is climbed head-on along an inclined edge. Alternating belay. Loose rocks. |
| R5–R6 | 50 | 1 | Pre-summit rise along the ridge. | |
| It is recommended to start the ascent before 7:00 AM. In this case, the pass is overcome before it is exposed to the sun. |