9. Descriptions of Ascent Routes to Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m)

Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m) – Mt. Ulun (2221 m), Category 1B Difficulty

From the base camp, move along the left tributary of the Ulun River, then towards the Edelweiss Pass. After 20–30 minutes of walking, start ascending up and to the right along the Eastern Counterfort of Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m).

After 1 hour and 10 minutes of ascent along a relatively simple snow-covered ridge with step-kicking, reach the Northeast Ridge of the summit, then continue along it for 20 minutes to the summit. The ridge is not steep and is snow-covered, but mutual belay is necessary due to the presence of snow cornices. Crampons are mandatory!

The summit of Khabarovskikh Alpinistok is a pyramid with steep walls dropping to the Southwest and Southeast. The further path is clearly visible from the summit. The traverse follows the ridge directed from North to South. Characteristics of the ridge:

• rocky, fairly narrow;
• drops steeply on both sides with walls up to 60 m deep;
• partially snow-covered, which somewhat simplifies movement;
• features low "gendarme" formations that can only be overcome head-on.

Movement along the ridge is in connected parties, with occasional short sections of rope protection. The Ulun Pass is not clearly defined and is a minor saddle between two "gendarme" formations. Movement along the ridge continues for 1 hour 15 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes.

The sharp ridge then gives way to a gentler slope leading to the ascent of Mt. Ulun (2221 m). The ridge is not difficult, and movement without mutual belay is allowed. However, crampons are mandatory!

After 20–30 minutes, reach the sub-summit. The path to the main summit via the saddle takes 10–15 minutes.

Mt. Ulun (2221 m) is a relatively gentle snow-covered dome. Descent from the summit:

• follow the ascent path back to the saddle;
• then descend down and to the right along the Northeast Ridge of the summit.

Slopes are avalanche-prone. Move cautiously between rocks, avoiding cutting into the snow slopes. Descent takes 40 minutes. Continue down to the river along the ascent path.

The total ascent time from the base camp is approximately 4 hours 30 minutes.

Equipment Recommendations for Subsequent Groups

For a group of 6 people, 2–3 ropes are necessary; all participants should have ice axes and crampons. Pitons are not required; there are usually opportunities to secure ropes to rock outcrops.